|
|
|
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Join Date: May 2002
Location: westchester county ,new york
Posts: 35
|
i drove my bx22 about a mile to my buddys house to help him dig out some stumps,grade the
driveway a little and do some heavy rock digging. the bx22 was workin real hard for about 4 hours. we are just finished i move the machine away from where we are working , i dropped the throttle from about 2800 rpm down to idle real quick, (by accident) the engine dies. will fire up w/key and stall. check connections etc. .....cant figure it out..... get a ride home get my truck w/trailer and tools. i was somewhat low on fuel.thought maybe a little lock-up.add more fuel. i cracked the fuel lines open. i had fuel. my friend says how 'bout the fuses.......he was right the 20A solenoid fuse is blown. check for damaged wires....nothing....install new fuse. turn the key....fuse pops......h'mmmmmmmm............check connections again....look at wires.... install another fuse.....it pops.........h'mmmmmmmmm i go to winch it up on the trailer (thank god the front loader was up halfway) forgot the remote switch.... short piece of wire jump that out......get it on trailer.....get it home.......check some other stuff w/voltmeter check the ignition switch harness....seems ok....put in another 20a fuse.....she fires right up..... anyone care to give some thoughts as to why the fuse kept blowing? seems as she cooled down she started right up.... seems to be working fine.... was always in neutral to start cant figure this one out thanks scott |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
New Member
Join Date: Dec 1969
Posts: 0
|
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
the bx22 was workin real hard for about 4 hours. )</font> This is a TWAG (total wild-assed guess) but the heat from hard operation could have caused more resistance in the solonoid coil, hence more current draw. When you got home it had cooled and no longer was drawing as much current? I would try checking the amp draw on the circuit and see if it's running close to the max load. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Platinum Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Greater Springfield area, Massachusetts
Posts: 762
|
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...could have caused more resistance in the solonoid coil, hence more current draw.)</font>
More resistance would cause less current to flow. Taking a different TWAG, it sounds like there might have been a short in the ignition wiring harness and when you were checking the connections you separated the shorting conductors. Shorts are not usually too much fun to track down...especially if they're intermittent. Good Luck, ~Rick |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 47
|
Its just a glitch in the BX design. I had it happen to mine and the dealer just said that it happens once in a while to the BX and no point searching too hard for the fault. I was also low on fuel. Perhaps some surge in the electrical system? It has never happened a second time. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
New Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Orange County, NY
Posts: 8
|
crawdad,
I had a post awhile ago, about my fuel solenoid that melted [img]/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] My BX-22 would turn over but not run. I never blew the fuse. I would recommend checking the fuel solenoid. The case on mine was bulged out and when the mechanic removed it and depressed something the plunger hit the bota started right up. Before this he also bled the lines thinking I ran out of fuel but I assured him that was not the case. The dealer had to order the part and installed it and my Bota runs fine [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] Hope this helps. Mike |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
New Member
Join Date: Dec 1969
Posts: 0
|
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( More resistance would cause less current to flow.)</font>
Well, you are right of course! I guess I was thinking that resistance causes heat and heat trips breakers and melts fuses. At any rate my theory involves heat affecting the circuit and causing the blown fuse. Once it's cool it works fine. </font><font color="blue" class="small">( Taking a different TWAG, it sounds like there might have been a short in the ignition wiring harness and when you were checking the connections you separated the shorting conductors.)</font> Possible, but I still think it's more likely related to the solonoid. |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) |
|
Platinum Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Greater Springfield area, Massachusetts
Posts: 762
|
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Possible, but I still think it's more likely related to the solonoid )</font>
Yep...with the subsequent posts, I tend to agree. And I agree, it probably is heat related...either mechanically or electrically. ~Rick |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
| About TractorByNet.com | Terms of Service | Advertise | © 2008 TractorByNet.com |