How much rear ballast on L3130 with LA723 loader?

[moship]

I have always left the backhoe on, but have a need to use the tractor without and thus need some rear ballast. Neither the FEL Operating Manual or Assembly Manual details the recommended weight when using a 3-pt ballast box.

I have the opportunity to buy a used JD ballast box (with extensions), but it is only 6.5 cubic feet in volume (Size recommended for JD 3x20 tractors). This equates to roughly 650 pounds of sand. The Kubota Ballast Box for this tractor is rated at 845 pounds of sand, so I'm assuming it is 8.45 cubic feet in volume.

For the record my rear tires are unloaded and I have no desire to fill them for ballast.

1) Is 650 pounds enough for this tractor and loader combination?
2) Do any of the newer manuals list recommended 3-pt ballast weights for similar loaders?
3) Anyone interested in selling me a Kubota L8170 ballast box or equivalent?

 

[case245]

i dont know about your model but my LA 1153 i have the cast centers they are 350 ibs each i have the tires filled with anti freeze they are 600 ibs each tire so that about 950 each tire and that not enough at times there should be charts on the net some where to tell you how much wieght for the 3pt or call a kubota dealer and ask them

 

[kevinj]

You need to ballast for what it will lift plus the loader weight out front.

On my L3940, same loader I have about 2200 with the loaded tires and at time wish I had a bit more.

3PH ballast is 1200# by itself,

What does your BH weigh, you need at least that much...............

 

[moship]

case245, I called the dealer. They suggested 600 to 800 lbs.

Details on Kubota's Ballast Box:
L8170 Ballast Box for L Series and L35 845 lb. capacity dry sand. The total weight of the ballast box with sand is 1000 lb.

Kevinj, I believe the backhoe is over 2,000 lbs but couldn't find it listed in the BH90 Operator Manual

 

[Notforhire]

I built a counterweight for my L3240 w/724 loader. It weighs right around 800 lbs. It works well. My Ag tires are loaded however, which adds about 480#. I think our tractor/ loaders are very close in size and weight. Without the counterweight, if I have anything in the bucket, even a few hundred pounds, I need to use 4WD just to go up my gravel drive and not spin the rear tires. Because of this I intend on adding whl. weights, not for doing heavy FEL work, but just to make it more stable.

Even if you don't intend on loading the tires, I would think 800# would work OK. More counterweight would take some more load off the front axle, which isn't a bad thing. I haven't heard case245, or anyone else complain that there is too much weight on the rear of their Kubota.
Moship how does your machine feel with no weight on the rear? Must be wild in road gear!:shocked:
Bill

 

[moship]

I only used it one time with out any type of ballast (mostly the backhoe is attached) and that was enough to realize some rear ballast is needed.

Thanks for the input and I'll try your suggestion of 800 lbs and go from there.

I really found it odd the owners manual didn't have any suggestions. The dealer I called had never seen any published data from Kubota.

 

[Notforhire]

BTW moship if you filled that 6.5 qft. JD box with concrete @ 150 lbs per, you would have 975 lbs plus the weight of the box. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

Best, Bill

 

[moship]

Notforhire,

Thanks,
I thought about concrete, but not certain if I want to go that route just yet. I'm thinking of using some scrap metal and sand to fill the gaps. This should yield a higher weight depending on how much steel I can get. Steel is approximately 490 lbs/cuft.

 

[dstig1]

Same as my setup L3130 LA723. I have 14.9-24 ? Rears that are filled with beet juice. In addition I have my winch (400#) or my box blade at 600#?. I have never been able to lift the rear end. The loader just doesn't lift enough to counteract that weight. On side hills, slope or disturbances when driving, all bets are off...

 

[Notforhire]

Notforhire,

Thanks,
I thought about concrete, but not certain if I want to go that route just yet. I'm thinking of using some scrap metal and sand to fill the gaps. This should yield a higher weight depending on how much steel I can get. Steel is approximately 490 lbs/cuft.

In an old post from case245, he mentioned not being able to use a counterweight because he needed to have a hitch on the rear. This has also been a problem for me as I have to remove my weight just to drag my chain harrow, move a trailer, ect.
To correct this, I am building a new counterweight. As you mentioned steel is 490#/cuft. A friend just gave me 3pcs of steel. total wt. 741 lbs. This counterweight will be much more compact than concrete, and I intend on incorporating a 2 in square reciever in the design. This hopefully, should solve my hitch problem, and reduce the need to remove the weight as often.
I think scrap is running around 10 cents per/lbs. Just another thing for you to ponder.:scratchchin:

Best, Bill