M9540 Belly Skid Plate/Brush Guard

[DT86]

Well I got mine on today, hooked up the grapple and went to tear out some cedar trees. Pretty pleased so far.

 

[ovrszd]

I'm interersted b/c I damaged one of my filters just like you did. Let me talk it over with the roommate/boss/wife. I do have a few questions it and about you're other mods (which I like all your mods).
1. Is there a hole in the skid plate for the hydraulic fluid to drain when changing the filters?

2. This past weekend I was thinking how to mount an old, metal milk crate (I have a cooler that fits in perfectly). From your New M9540HD12-1 review I can't tell from the pics, is mounted to fender? Or to the light frame?

3. You have 2 open storeage boxes to the left of your seat. One is bolted near the front axle assist lever. How did you access the nut under the there? There doesn't appear to be enough room to work unless you took the tire off or lower the fuel tank. The other storeage looks to be made out of plastic that is bolted to the fender.

4. I saw someone on here modify the skid plate for the fuel tank for their 9540. Have considered modifing it? I had a stick pop a line off my tank once. I had to lower the tank to gain access to put the line back on.

Again I really like all the mods you have posted. They look factory made, but stronger.

Let me know if interested in a skid plate so I can get metal ordered. For clarity, the skid will be $380, then whatever shipping costs.

DT86 was having some issues installing his but appears he's got it figured out. Always a concern that someone else's tractor might not be hydraulicly configured like mine. I'll work with Derek to make sure he is reimbursed for any modifications he might have had to make to get a good fit.

As for question #1. The skid has a small gap between itself and the transmission case. Any oil that might run down the trans case thus runs out on the floor, not on top of the skid. I changed my damaged filter with the skid on and didn't make any mess on the skid at all.

As for question #2. I fastened my cooler holder directly to the light bracket. Left enough gap between the bottom of the carrier and the top of the fender that I can stick my fingers between them. Of all the mods I've done, that one serves me best in regards to operator comfort. Weather permitting I pack my lunch, 3 or 4 bottles of water and a couple Beers in the bottom, all on ice. Nothing like sitting on the tractor in the evening viewing all the work I've accomplished that day sipping a cold Beer.

Question #3. The small plastic box was made from a Jeep bumper extension. I use it to hold my Cell Phone, eye glasses, stocking cap, whatever applies at the moment. After breaking a Cell Phone packing wood I decided a holder would be cheaper.

The metal box I made from scraps. There's room to reach in under the floor pan from the side to put the nuts on. My rears are set out enough they aren't in the way at all. The rearward end of the box is bolted thru the vertical part of the floor pan. I keep a hammer, hitch pins, large bolts, whatever else doesn't need to be covered and is a bit large for the toolbox. If you couldn't access the nuts, I guess you could use metal screws to hold a bracket. Just make sure they are short enough to not tap into the top of the fuel tank, that would suck.

Question #4. I guess out of laziness I haven't done anything to the fuel tank skid. I've not had any problems there to motivate me. But now you've got me thinking about it. I'll investigate a solution.

 

[clee4020]

Let me know if interested in a skid plate so I can get metal ordered. For clarity, the skid will be $380, then whatever shipping costs.

DT86 was having some issues installing his but appears he's got it figured out. Always a concern that someone else's tractor might not be hydraulicly configured like mine. I'll work with Derek to make sure he is reimbursed for any modifications he might have had to make to get a good fit.

As for question #1. The skid has a small gap between itself and the transmission case. Any oil that might run down the trans case thus runs out on the floor, not on top of the skid. I changed my damaged filter with the skid on and didn't make any mess on the skid at all.

As for question #2. I fastened my cooler holder directly to the light bracket. Left enough gap between the bottom of the carrier and the top of the fender that I can stick my fingers between them. Of all the mods I've done, that one serves me best in regards to operator comfort. Weather permitting I pack my lunch, 3 or 4 bottles of water and a couple Beers in the bottom, all on ice. Nothing like sitting on the tractor in the evening viewing all the work I've accomplished that day sipping a cold Beer.

Question #3. The small plastic box was made from a Jeep bumper extension. I use it to hold my Cell Phone, eye glasses, stocking cap, whatever applies at the moment. After breaking a Cell Phone packing wood I decided a holder would be cheaper.

The metal box I made from scraps. There's room to reach in under the floor pan from the side to put the nuts on. My rears are set out enough they aren't in the way at all. The rearward end of the box is bolted thru the vertical part of the floor pan. I keep a hammer, hitch pins, large bolts, whatever else doesn't need to be covered and is a bit large for the toolbox. If you couldn't access the nuts, I guess you could use metal screws to hold a bracket. Just make sure they are short enough to not tap into the top of the fuel tank, that would suck.

Question #4. I guess out of laziness I haven't done anything to the fuel tank skid. I've not had any problems there to motivate me. But now you've got me thinking about it. I'll investigate a solution.

Did you bolt the cooler cage to the light bracket? I think mine has a hole in the top of the light bracket. Or did you weld it on? If you get a chance I'd love to see detailed pics of it.

 

[xring100]

Hey ovrszd,
Thanks Again for sharing your creation its given me some good inspiration and a starting point. I've Got a 7' Bushhog BH27 on order, and dozens of 1-3" box elders that I intend to obliterate with it, I think its about time i put some Under Armor on the tractor.

One Question What exactly did you do with the Park Brake Return spring, the one mentioned in bold below or in following picture. Did this end up being a mass reduction?

Thanks for the Bolt sizes as well. I've found Fine thread metric fasteners to be about as hard to find as Whitworth. Especially if you want grade 10.9 or Yellow zinc plated. Out of 4 industrial bolt suppliers located in my area including one called Metrics Unlimited no one had them some had one size or the other but they were black phosphate coated. Ended up ordering them from Fastenal only ones who even supplied Yellow zinc.

Thanks to everyone for the compliments.
Bolt sizes, the four orange colored bolts are 14mm x 1.50 thread pitch x 1 1/4 long. Bigger two are 16mm x 1.50 thread pitch x 1 1/4 long. Where the larger silver bolt comes up from the bottom there was a tab bolted there from the factory holding a return spring that fastened to the PTO engagement lever. The one in the rear axle housing just had a plastic plug in it.

 

[ovrszd]

Hey ovrszd,
One Question What exactly did you do with the Park Brake Return spring, the one mentioned in bold below or in following picture. Did this end up being a mass reduction?

I welded a washer to the inside frame rail of the skid. Hooked the spring to that washer. Eliminated the tab in your picture.

I misquoted that as the PTO return spring, but you are right, it's the park brake return spring. My spring was gone, ran without it for quite a while. One day last Winter when I was bored I dug around in my spring selection and replaced it. See no difference with or without.

 

[xring100]

Thanks Richard,
Good Idea on the washer i though you might have just drilled a hole through the pan and attached the spring through it but i could see no such hole in the that area. I believe the spring is only there as a backup to make sure the park brake releases in the event the cable binds. The bolts I ordered should be in tomorrow. I've got a bunch of 2x2 angle iron from a trailer i cut up that was left in my barn. I'll Have to get some Sheet metal and then fire the welder up and go to town.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with the rest of the world.

I welded a washer to the inside frame rail of the skid. Hooked the spring to that washer. Eliminated the tab in your picture.

I misquoted that as the PTO return spring, but you are right, it's the park brake return spring. My spring was gone, ran without it for quite a while. One day last Winter when I was bored I dug around in my spring selection and replaced it. See no difference with or without.

P.S. No worries on the confusion with the Park Brake return spring. I figured you were just testing us to see if anyone was actually paying close attention to what you were saying. I was not sure exactly what it was for until i played with the shifter lever

 

[xring100]

Hey Ovrszd could you please tell me correct size fastener listed as M14 x 1.5 i now have $30 in bolts that i can not use. It looks like its more of an m10 - m12 fine thread. May also want edit your original post so no one else gets confused in the future.



Thanks,
Dave

Update i found a M12 x 1.25 tap in my collection it looks like that's the correct size

 

[Rustyiron]

Hey Ovrszd could you please tell me correct size fastener listed as M14 x 1.5 i now have $30 in bolts that i can not use. It looks like its more of an m10 - m12 fine thread. May also want edit your original post so no one else gets confused in the future.

Thanks,
Dave

Update i found a M12 x 1.25 tap in my collection it looks like that's the correct size

I was able to get most of these bolts at the Kubota dealer. A lot of them out of their shop bolt bucket. There are really just 2 sizes I used, got my info from Ovrszd also. JD dealer had a good stock also but no go on the finer thread. Do a quick google search for a lesson on how metric bolts are described, if I remember , there is the dia, legnth, and threads per mm.

 

[xring100]

I was able to get most of these bolts at the Kubota dealer. A lot of them out of their shop bolt bucket. There are really just 2 sizes I used, got my info from Ovrszd also. JD dealer had a good stock also but no go on the finer thread. Do a quick Google search for a lesson on how metric bolts are described, if I remember , there is the dia, legnth, and threads per mm.

Thanks Rustyiron I think I've got it figured out now. Would have never guessed the dealer would stock that stuff Plus they 25 miles each way i would have hated to have gone up there and found they did'nt. Unless I'm able to take my motorcycle its cheaper to pay shipping than to take my S10 to the dealer. Unfortunately the M14's i bought were about $5.70 a piece and it would probably cost half that to ship them back. So i'l just keep them for now.

I believe these will work just fine. the M16 works My M12-1.25 tap fits in the other holes and they are a little over an inch deep so the 30 mm's will work.

M12-1.25 x 30mm DIN 961 Class 10.9 Yellow Zinc Cap Screw $3.03 each
M16-1.5 x 30mm DIN 961 Class 10.9 Yellow Zinc Cap Screw $7.04 each

 

[Rustyiron]

I would not stress over the grade (bolt) you get as the load's are simple, basically compression and for the most part holding the weight of what you build to the tractor. Be sure to include us on your build (pictures) It's interesting to see the different "aproaches" to similar projects. I used 4 bolts for the "rear" pan, 6 bolts for the tranny pan, and 4 bolts for the engine pan, and have drug them all over some nasty stumps and rocks. Only scratched the paint off the 1/4" pan....so far.:laughing: