I own Two 3cyl kubota diesil engines "confused."

[ericuhl]

I have two three cylinder Kubota engines, I believe one is rated at 17HP to whatever, and the second is possibly rated at 23HP to whatever. I am using the term "Whatever" loosely, because, the last Kubota technition said the engine could be this, this, this or even this... I could not get a straight answer to save my life! It is extremely hard to get anything substancial pertaing to information on these engines. I like the reliability of the engines, but I do not like how hard it is to get anything else for them, unless, it's buying 5 gallons of diesil fuel! I am in a never ending nightmere with these engines! The engines out lasted their equipment and were removed and sold to me as is, normally, I would not have bought something in this condition, but, I use to run one of the engines so I was pleased with its condition; and as far as the other engine I bought it from a close personal friend.

The only information I have to work with is simply the serial numbers on each engine block. The engines are bolted to their original frame mounts, they have been torch cut out of their old homes. I need the basic electrical system schematic, showing how the glow plugs are wired up gauges,ect; I'm sure you get the picture,
if I can get just a basic wiring schematic I can remove everything that is not important to the basic systems. Simply need ignition, starting and charging with glow plugs and I'm all set. I want to thank anyone who will help me up front.

 

[SSdoxie]

Kubota is a very large OEM supplier of engines to many different manufacturing companies. They can use the same engine model and through variations in cam/valve timing, fuel timing, & max RPM get quite a variation in HP out of the same engine block. 2 ways to figue out what the engine is rated at would be if it did not come out of a Kubota equipment:
1. Take the model number and spec number to a Kubota industrial engine dealer and have him look it up.
2. If you know what it came out of, look up the specifiactions in that manufacturer's manual.

Unless it is out fo a Kubota, Kubota has no information of how it was originally wired, what they may have is very likely "privalaged" information they are not allowed to give out due to OEM agreements. That is up to the manufacturer. Again, the best place to find this is manual for the equipment it came out of.

 

[PILOON]

Wiring should be simple enough as a diesel does not need electricity to run.

Heavy wire from battery to starter as well as to engine ground.
Switched +12v to starter solenoid (small gauge wire) and possibly also to a fuel solenoid which would be normally closed device.
Oil temp and pressure could be simply mechanical gauges.(auto parts store)
Glow plugs would want heavier wire, like 12g or 10g and operation could be simple counting off seconds using a HD push on (NO) switch.
Install fuses rated to protect wires except for battery main that is always direct.
If alternator is a 2 wire job then the + goes direct to the battery (fused) but switched via the starter switch.
If you want an ammeter it goes between the alternator and the battery, a voltmeter pretty well anywhere between + and ground with the + from the switched side of the switch.
Other than the glow plugs and starter all other wire could be 16 gauge.
Have fun, should be a cool project.

 

[Grandad4]

Here is a link to the Kubota engine website which gives specs for the current models. These basic engines "evolve" over time, so it's a fair bet your older engines have much the same basic specs and even many identical parts as the equivalent new ones.

Kubota Engine America - Compact Diesel Engines

An engine distributor like these guys would probably be able to get you more info about the specific engines you have:

Frontier Power Products - Home Page

 

[RobertN]

Should be able to search based on the engine model. For instance, my old Kubota had a D950 thre cylinder 19hp. Some of those 3 and 4 cylinder Kubotas were popular for marine applications, like sailboats...
http://www.c34.org/manuals/KubotaParts-D950.pdf

What model engine is it?

 

[Labrat]

The fuel solenoid may have 3 wires, Ground, Pick and Hold. The Pick circuit is energized to pull the injection pump arm and of course the Hold circuit holds the arm. If you keep continuous power on the Pick circuit it will cook the solenoid in short order. I believe the red wire is the Pick wire and the white is the Hold.

 

[ericuhl]

Thank you for your quick response, I agree about the many different companies, I was told that the engine from my friend could have come out of the agricultral line of Kubota's; it could have originated over seas and was brought here illegally and placed on a commercial piece of equipment. I was told that they were on water pumps, generators, commercial lawn mowers, and even boats. The list went on and on, what I'm some what curious about is how they can take the same block and bore and increase or decrease the hp rating! The closest industrial dealer is roughly a hundred miles from me, somewhere in Jackson MS. I am somewhat limited at this time as my wife just lost a $50.000.00 a year job and I am a disabeld heart patient on a very small disability check per month. Extensive traveling is on a need to basis, fortunately I can talk to good individuals such as yourself using my computer. Thank you again for your help.

 

[ericuhl]

Piloon, thank you for responding to my request for help. I was planning on using a regular old style truck ignition switch, and then add in a solenoid, as for the gauges strickly all mechanical. The electrical gauges usually alert you as you have lost what your trying to protect; somewhat after the fact that there is a problem. Just about anyone can see there is an issue as a glowing red connecting rod lies before you in a smoking puddle of oil! A small white hovering puffy cloud just above the engine could also indicate a hot engine condition because of the absense of H20.

This is one of the issues I had with idiot gauge, the fact was I was the idiot for trusting it the water gauge had shorted out just enough to still function to the un-trained eye and it looked as though all was well. I found out that there is a perfect water condition where the water is extremely low and yet the engine reads cool... until, snap, crackle, and pop happens. I could not get any heat out of my car until I topped off the radiator, this was in the winter had it been the summer I'm sure the engine would have boiled over. Sorry about the rabbit trail I am not sure how to diagram the circuit that you were mentioning. Thank you for your help.

 

[RobertN]

They can change injectors, pump timing etc. Have seen CAT 3208T rating for marine much higher than for our fire engine. It was derated for dependability in the fire engine.

The serial number should allow a dealer to tell you what the motor is(like my example of D950). Once you have that, looking up more information should be easier.

Thank you for your quick response, I agree about the many different companies, I was told that the engine from my friend could have come out of the agricultral line of Kubota's; it could have originated over seas and was brought here illegally and placed on a commercial piece of equipment. I was told that they were on water pumps, generators, commercial lawn mowers, and even boats. The list went on and on, what I'm some what curious about is how they can take the same block and bore and increase or decrease the hp rating! The closest industrial dealer is roughly a hundred miles from me, somewhere in Jackson MS. I am somewhat limited at this time as my wife just lost a $50.000.00 a year job and I am a disabeld heart patient on a very small disability check per month. Extensive traveling is on a need to basis, fortunately I can talk to good individuals such as yourself using my computer. Thank you again for your help.

 

[RobertN]

Oh, curious what you are doing with the motor?