I like this set-up ,I may change mine this summer.Originally I had the plow mounted just in front of the loader arms. Now I'm moving it back about 14 inches. With the plow mounted just in front, I plowed a very light snow. It worked well. Because I have a fairly small tractor, I decided that to move the attachment point back in anticipation of heavier snows which would put greater lateral forces on the loader arms. Also I figured I could always mount it in front if it did not work in the moved back position.
Attached are photos showing my original configuration and the work-in-progress moving the attachment point back 14 inches.
Got the modified mount (attach point moved 14 inches further back) painted and ready to go. Got some snow last night. I got to give it another test drive. Here's a link 2nd use of new-to-me snow plow with 14 inch modification - YouTube where I plow with my set-up. It's a little fuzzy but you can make out all the critical stuff.
I did have some trouble figuring out the correct height of the loader. I had a tendency to ride over the plow and tripping the trip-springs. I suppose with some more experience I'll figure out how to position the loader. I did not have any trouble being pushed to the side because of the snow. I'm not sure if I like the plow mounted further back because of the trouble I had getting it to push snow without activating the trip. I'll update after some more plowing.
If you get rid of the chain hanger and make a rigid connection you can use the loader float valve. works much better...also the option of down pressure in icy conditions.
Also I don't think moving it back is really lessening the torque/side load to the loader arms. I've been running mine with the plow in the bucket for a few years... You just learn in very heavy snows...to use very little angle at first... just enough as needed. then more severe angles to clean up...
I think the chain setup is better. It keeps the weight of the loader on the front of the tractor and makes it easier to steer. You also don't have the weight of the loader resting on the skid shoes so the blade will not sink in gravel as bad. The best of both worlds would be to have a peice of metal to stick in place of the chain in case you needed down pressure.
What if you put in some kind of link almost like those 3ph stabilizers we've seen in some of the other threads? You could let the blade ride on the ground with the pin sliding up and down, but lower the arms another couple inches and the arms put pressure down on the pin and thus to the blade. I'm not a fab guy (wish I was), but I can visualize it.