I can write anything on a filter but it doesn't make it the right filter. Buy REAL Kubota filters and fluids. You payed the price for the machine so why not put in the oils and install the filters that meet the designed spec?
to each his own,
just fyi i spent 15 years as a heavy line / diesel tech, i always got a little grin when somone saved 2 bucks on a cheep fuel filter then had to pay me diag time plus have a new filter installed because the one they had failied, or they guy that swore up and down he had a engine problem becuse the engine rattled bad on first start up. replace the filter with the correct one that had the correct anti drainback valve and the noise was gone. then there was the big block engines that the oil was cavitating and blowing #7 piston out the side of the block, i spent the entire summer replaing engines, once the engineers got wind of it they sent a rep down, come to find out the engine oil filters the company was using that they bought in bulk were the root cause of failure.
do what you want man i dont care, makes no difference to me. All i am saying is that i have years of greesy fingers, busted knuckels and countless stories about people saving 2 bucks and costimg them thousands in the end. if all filters were created equal this would not be such a big deal.
as for your "what oil do i use" ask yourself this. what MAJOR change has taken place since you bought your bota, that all of us have to deal with? here is a hint 3.47 a gallon today - FUEL! one of the main things that contribute to engine oil break down. The old fuel had sulfer in the fuel which from what i understand provided lubrication, now the new fuel is low sulfer so we have a reduction in lubrication. granted the majority of the lubrication took place in the fuel system (injectors, pump) this "dryer" fuel is introduced into the cylinders, with that in mind the oil we use needs to help take up the slack and prevent as much engine wear as possible.
i use Rotilla synthetic, i have torn down everything from a 3116 cat engine to old 6.5 gm engines and by far the clean engines ran Rotilla. Every engine i own runs some sort of mobil 1 or rotilla and the factory filters. i have had one engine failure on something i owned in my life, i learned from my mistake at the ripe old age of 19.
This is just my experince and my opinion, good luck to you
OK. Since no one else is willing, Ill provide a link NTPOG Oil Filter Review to one attempt to review oil filters. I'll provide some relevant quotes.
"This review contains no SAE or ASTM test data regarding filtration ability or flow information. This data changes often (as do the filter designs) and in some cases is not even available (publicly) from a manufacturer. "
"Even the worst of oil filters will last for 3000 miles without any problems at all, and almost any motor oil will last for 7500 miles."
"but the fact is that just about every brand name non-synthetic oil (or "dino") will last 3000 miles and have almost no significant wear to the oil or engine"
"The FRAM x2 (and only the FRAM x2 Series) is probably the most heavily constructed filter I've seen so far."
"No claim as to the reliability or performance of any filter reviewed here is made."
"The information presented here is intended solely to help you determine which filter is right for you from the stanpoint (sic) of construction. "
Anyone know what the the equivalent conversion to miles to hours would be? My guess, on average, about 100 hours, but for sure between 50 and 150 hours. My Kubota calls for oil changes every 100 hours and oil filter changes every 200 hours. I'm lucky to get 60 hours in a year. So with an oil and filter change once a year I'm safely within the recommended use of any filter or any oil. BTW, like most people, I change my filter every time I change my oil. So I'm never anywhere near exceeding Kubota's recommendation for changing the oil filter.
I did not even know this report existed until I did a google search a few minutes ago. I think it supports my contention that any filter you buy is adequate and no tests are available showing an inadequate filter brand. If you can find any scientific report that says any particular filter is not adequate please provide a link. I'd loved to be convinced.
BTW, It would be nice if the next person to call me ignorant would at least provide some data supporting their contention.
Also if the $7 filter is better, why not a $9 filter which would be better yet, why not a $25 filter which would be better yet, why not a $100 filter which would be even better. How do you chose which one to buy? There is no question they all meet the minimum requirements. Why would anyone buy anything but the $7 filter. I suppose if you operated in some particularly harsh environments, like battlefield conditions, you'd buy the $100 filter. But if you are like me, where the consequences of an oil filter failure are not life threatening, I'd buy the $7 filter.
Sorry for my ignorance and the slight derail but what's the difference between kubotas hydraulic oil and the stuff at tsc that's $35 for 5 gallons?