Block plug leak

   / Block plug leak #11  
Some good and bad suggestions on here that I'm seeing from my 20+ years of engine experience....
The good....
Replacing the coolant more often. It's like oil. It's not too expensive and is easy maintenance. Every 3 years, mine gets tossed and replaced.
Block plugs are replaced by hitting the edge to knock the plug sideways which will bend it up a bit. Get it taco shaped and pull it out with a pair of pliers. I've seen the slide hammer method done, but I've also seen that do damage to the block.
Another slick idea......why you're replacing the block plug, why not put in a block heater? My tractor has one, my diesel truck has one, even my Subaru has one. It's really like starting a warm engine every time. I see you're in California.....but I'm not sure how warm your part stays. If it drops below 45 degrees and you use the tractor....it's a nice thing to have.

The bad...
Any stop leak is like what Earl said....they do a great job of plugging things up. This includes radiators, heater cores, and thermostats. It's like taking Advil for a stroke....yeah...it'll make the headache go away....but are you really solving the problem?

Here's what you need.
Block plugs: 5 of them to do the whole engine. If you do a block heater, you'll only need 4.
Replacement Parts - L2550DT - L2550 - L2000 Series - L Series Tractor - Kubota

If you're cold and want heat, I found the heater kit for you also.
Accessories - L2550DT - L2550 - L2000 Series - L Series Tractor - Kubota

Here's a video I found on removing them.
[HOW TO] Remove Freeze Plugs - YouTube

WHen you put the new ones in, I usually use a silicon sealer.
 
   / Block plug leak
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thank you all for the excellent advice! I decided against the additive and was able to easily remove the plug. The video was very helpful. I found a brass plug at the local parts store and installed it with the right sized socket and an extension. I filled the radiator with water and ran the tractor up to temperature with no leaks. I'm going to drain and flush the system tomorrow before adding new coolant. I was surprised to see the back of the old plug was shinny--it looked new with the exception of the spot at the left edge that had corroded through (see photo). I was expecting much worse and am now debating if I'll change the rest or not as a couple of the others aren't so easy to get to.
 

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   / Block plug leak #13  
Thank you all for the excellent advice! I decided against the additive and was able to easily remove the plug. The video was very helpful. I found a brass plug at the local parts store and installed it with the right sized socket and an extension. I filled the radiator with water and ran the tractor up to temperature with no leaks. I'm going to drain and flush the system tomorrow before adding new coolant. I was surprised to see the back of the old plug was shinny--it looked new with the exception of the spot at the left edge that had corroded through (see photo). I was expecting much worse and am now debating if I'll change the rest or not as a couple of the others aren't so easy to get to.

Personally I would not bother unless they are leaking, especially if they are in an awkward spot.
 
   / Block plug leak #14  
Good to hear you got it done. Sometimes .....its not as bad as you think
 
   / Block plug leak
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Some good and bad suggestions on here that I'm seeing from my 20+ years of engine experience....
The good....
Replacing the coolant more often. It's like oil. It's not too expensive and is easy maintenance. Every 3 years, mine gets tossed and replaced.
Block plugs are replaced by hitting the edge to knock the plug sideways which will bend it up a bit. Get it taco shaped and pull it out with a pair of pliers. I've seen the slide hammer method done, but I've also seen that do damage to the block.
Another slick idea......why you're replacing the block plug, why not put in a block heater? My tractor has one, my diesel truck has one, even my Subaru has one. It's really like starting a warm engine every time. I see you're in California.....but I'm not sure how warm your part stays. If it drops below 45 degrees and you use the tractor....it's a nice thing to have.

The bad...
Any stop leak is like what Earl said....they do a great job of plugging things up. This includes radiators, heater cores, and thermostats. It's like taking Advil for a stroke....yeah...it'll make the headache go away....but are you really solving the problem?

Here's what you need.
Block plugs: 5 of them to do the whole engine. If you do a block heater, you'll only need 4.
Replacement Parts - L2550DT - L2550 - L2000 Series - L Series Tractor - Kubota

If you're cold and want heat, I found the heater kit for you also.
Accessories - L2550DT - L2550 - L2000 Series - L Series Tractor - Kubota

Here's a video I found on removing them.
[HOW TO] Remove Freeze Plugs - YouTube

WHen you put the new ones in, I usually use a silicon sealer.

Thanks for the suggestion on the block heater and the link. I'm going to put one in before winter. I'm in Northern California and we occasionally get temps clear down into the teens (that's above zero)--I know--nothing like Ohio or Vermont, etc. but still...
 
 
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