Clutch suddenly stopped engaging (L245DT)

[Whitebird]

If the FEL is the non-removable type, it's easier to leave it attached to the tractor.

I think mine is removable but I'm hoping I only have to unbolt it from the rear axle.

To split it the machine, raise the bucket and block it up off the side rails. Unbolt the loader's chin bar from its side rails, take off the hood, disconnect the steering link, hydraulic supply pipes, unplug/disconnect wires etc., support both halves on rolling jacks, take out the bell housing bolts, and then roll the engine and front axle away from the rest of it. Works best on a flat floor, and if you visualize it for a while first. Good luck. Dick B

Thank you so much for these tips! I ordered parts from Messicks and will be attempting this on Monday.

 

[rbargeron]

I think mine is removable but I'm hoping I only have to unbolt it from the rear axle.....

Here's a picture of how we recently split one for a clutch job - left the loader on. We blocked the loader up from the side rails, supported the tractor with a rolling jack under the transmission and another under the engine. We used shims up front on each side to block the axle from pivoting.

 

[Whitebird]

Here's a picture of how we recently split one for a clutch job...

The picture is so helpful! will plan on doing it this way and leaving the loader etc attached to the rear half.

We used shims up front on each side to block the axle from pivoting.

To keep the back wheels from turning while you rolled away the front: Is that right?

 

[rbargeron]

No - Its for the front axle. When the engine is unbolted from the bellhousing, the front part of the tractor will tend to flop to one side or the other because the front axle pivots in the middle. The shims on each side are so the axle doesn't pivot as you roll it away. Use tight fitting shims of wood and/or steel - tap them in with a hammer BEFORE you unbolt the engine.

Depending on how and where your loader frame bolts together, it can be easier to leave more of it with the front half of the tractor. The pics below show a L275 with a loader that unbolts behind the uprights. It can be a little less work this way if you have an external front hydraulic pump. Loaders are different with each tractor model - Need to study your tractor a while so you have a plan.

There is actually q pretty good list of stuff to disconnect - the front driveshaft, steering rod, hydraulic tubing (drain hydraulic oil into a nice clean container unless you are replacing it) speedometer cable, wiring harnesses, etc. etc. Most of it is obvious - but its good to have a workshop manual for your model. Best of luck - Dick B

 

[Whitebird]

Thanks to all, especially rbargeron!

I ended up replacing the clutch successfully, with a lot of help from a friend. The disk had disintegrated (it was rusty and almost certainly the original), which explains why onset was so sudden. The hardest part of splitting was figuring out where to disconnect the hydraulics (ended up separating the in and out lines from the pump housing itself) and then getting the lines around the bell while separating the 2 halves.

We did end up putting in the pressure plate bolts through the inspection window, but that was a real pain and I don't recommend it. The only reason we didn't fall back to the duct-tape alignment tool method was that splitting the tractor back apart again after we'd finally gotten the 2 halves realigned would've been even more trouble.

One little item to note for anyone doing this is that of the 6 bolts that secure the pressure plate to the flywheel, 2 are a little longer than the other 4 and have a bit of smooth shank. Make sure you get the right bolts in the right holes.

Thanks again for everyone's help.