Clutch suddenly stopped engaging (L245DT)

[Whitebird]

I was working with the FEL today and the clutch suddenly stopped went out. It worked fine powering into a dirt pile, then I clutched and shifted to reverse, let out the pedal and nothing. There were no strange sounds or burning clutch smell.

With the pedal released I can switch in and out of all gears, which should not be possible. Depressing and releasing the pedal continues to do nothing, except that when I depress it there is a little friction sound (sort of a brushing or rubbing, not squealing). I would say there's a little less resistance than normal when depressing the pedal. I've read about stuck clutches on here but can't find this opposite problem by searching. It would seem like the springs that hold the clutch to flywheel are worn out, except it was so sudden.

Anyone have any ideas on where to start looking?

Relevant facts (maybe?):
I had just topped off tranny fluid and was working on a hill.
I get a little tranny fluid from around the gear shifter and PTO shifter when I've been running it hard for a while (e.g. mowing uphill).

Thank you kindly.

Kubota L245DT
1000 hrs (new to me; only put 15 hrs on it)

 

[2458n]

Orange Tractor talks has a video about replacing this tractor's clutch. Vic does a very good job. Worth looking into.

 

[Bluegill2]

Time for a new clutch.

 

[KennyV]

Look under the bell housing, is there a hole there with a cotter pin loose in it... is there trans fluid at that hole?

 

[2458n]

Orange Tractor talks has a video about replacing this tractor's clutch. Vic does a very good job. Worth looking into.

 

[firemech]

Has your clutch been jerky or "launching" (let out the clutch nothing happens then it jumps) lately? My 2005 B7510 had corrosion between the aluminum rear trans housing (I thought it was cast iron but not so) and the clutch pivot shaft for the clutch fork. The corrosion caused the shaft to hang up when releasing the clutch petal then quickly engaging. Had to split the tractor remove the shaft and clean then grease the shaft. Changed the clutch and pressure plates due to 1200 hours and it was already apart but the clutch was
actually in pretty good shape. Has worked great since then (now 1900 hrs.)

 

[Whitebird]

Wow. Thank you all for these responses!

Look under the bell housing, is there a hole there with a cotter pin loose in it... is there trans fluid at that hole?

I can't see a hole with a cotter pin under there. Is it on the tractor's centerline? If so it must be up under the front wheel driveshaft where I can't see it.

Orange Tractor talks has a video about replacing this tractor's clutch. Vic does a very good job. Worth looking into.

That really is a helpful site. I'm guessing you mean this page: Getting to Know your Kubota痴 Clutch | OrangeTractorTalks

Has your clutch been jerky or "launching" (let out the clutch nothing happens then it jumps) lately?

No. It worked perfectly until I went to back up there. That's why I'm looking for other opinions: there were no hints beforehand.

Time for a new clutch.

I admit I can't think of any other possibility either; I was just hoping... since the onset was so sudden... it might be simple.

 

[petes]

Is the throw-out lever moving with the clutch pedal and returning to it's normal positioin? I'm not sure where it's positioned on a 245DT.

It sounds like either:
1. the throw-out bearing is hung up and not returning to "normal" when the pedal is released
2. the pressure plate is no longer attached to the flywheel, (i.e. bolts fell out)
or
3. the input shaft to the transmission is no longer, uh, "connected".

Unfortunately, $$ increase from first to last, and splitting the tractor to find out is pretty much inevitable.

Let us know what you find!

 

[rbargeron]

It does sound like you'll need to split the tractor to get to the problem, whether its pressure plate fingers worn off, or release bearing stuck, or the shaft seized in the bellhousing. If the FEL is the non-removable type, it's easier to leave it attached to the tractor.

To split it the machine, raise the bucket and block it up off the side rails. Unbolt the loader's chin bar from its side rails, take off the hood, disconnect the steering link, hydraulic supply pipes, unplug/disconnect wires etc., support both halves on rolling jacks, take out the bell housing bolts, and then roll the engine and front axle away from the rest of it. Works best on a flat floor, and if you visualize it for a while first. Good luck. Dick B

 

[Whitebird]

Is the throw-out lever moving with the clutch pedal and returning to it's normal positioin? I'm not sure where it's positioned on a 245DT.

I believe it's #6 here, and it does move as usual when I depress the pedal:

It sounds like either:
1. the throw-out bearing is hung up and not returning to "normal" when the pedal is released
2. the pressure plate is no longer attached to the flywheel, (i.e. bolts fell out)
or
3. the input shaft to the transmission is no longer, uh, "connected".

I opened up the inspection window and I think I have the answer. 1st the good: The throwout bearing moves back and forth as it should when the clutch pedal is depressed and released. And, the pressure plate is definitely attached to the flywheel and spins with the engine running.

But, when I opened up the window, I could that the release levers were not all perpendicular to the bearing (see pic, especially toward the bottom). Also, I can see some fibers in there. My guess is that the disc suddenly disintegrated (Is that possible?), removing the pressure from those fingers and explaining why suddenly the clutch pedal felt lighter. So: I think I need to do a typical clutch replacement. I'm thankful it's not the transmission!