BX Alternator kit installation (project)

[Junkman]

I must have been cheated, because I didn't get a new belt with my kit. I still haven't installed it. Like fine wine, I am letting it age a little..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[sandyc]

I'd like to echo my thanks as the directions helped me a great deal. The directions supplied by Kubota are worse than useless....they are dangerous.

My alternator on my Bx 2200 works great and I have no fear running 4 spots, wiper, defroster as well as flashers.

 

[RichT]

Make certain you use a lockwasher on the lower mounting bolt. Yup, I learned the hard way....

 

[rbarker]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I must have been cheated, because I didn't get a new belt with my kit.)</font>

You must not have gotten the "deluxe" kit! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Actually, I just checked my pictures and found that mine didn't come with a belt either. (That's what Kubota told me to tell you!) /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Electron8]

This artical was a nice addition to the instructions (term used loosely) that came with the alternator kit - especially the steps about cracking a couple beers, but it apparently needs update depending on which kit you get. I just installed the BX7310A kit for my 2004 BX23. It comes with different parts which address the problem Charlie had about removing the bushing from the alternator mount on the engine. This kit had the parts to do any of the BX tractors, but specifically had a special collared spacer which slides into the bottom alternator mount hole, adapting it for the smaller diameter bolt. Although Charlie found a bushing in the motor mount hole, the new engines in the BX23 apparently do not have that - I really looked closely - it has the smaller mounting hole and no bushing. The parts included work well to mount the alternator with the smaller diameter bolt, saving what I thought would be a painful step removing that bushing. Also, I did it without removing the cowl totally, just moved it as far forward as the brush guard would allow and lifting the side up (held up with a string) to access the bottom bolt and to feed the wires through the firewall. My kit had a spade connector that was slightly too small to fit over the starter/battery post and I had to round-file it to fit. They also shorted me the boot that goes over the alternator post, but I had one that did the job. They also shorted the alternator post nut, but the unused shouldered one that comes off the old regulator is perfect (who has a big stock of metric hardware around the garage?). The alternator is a tight fit - trying to retrofit a car unit, as one post suggested, might be a little tricky and probably not worth the hassle. The little relay that replaces the old regulator is used to disconnect the field (regulator input) when the tractor is off - perhaps the ignition switch wouldn't handle the current, or they wanted to meter voltage properly at the battery, so they went that way. The project is surely worthwhile - you end up with a real alternator instead of the permanent magnet dynamo and it's inefficient series regulator that comes stock - it's basically a larger unit of what rode against the tire on a bicycle. I used to see the light brightness change when I came off idle speed, but not now, and the battery charging voltage (14.50) stays almost constant (within 0.04v) when the lights are turned on. I feel the battery will get a full charge now. All set for a cab and radio!
Dave

 

[Keoke]

Hi guys, alternator shown in pic is a Denso, aka Nippondenso. These units are OEM on Toyota's vehicles as well as other makes. Old unit is an A/C only unit with no internal diodes used for changing A/C to DC. The retification is instead done in the combo regulator/rectifier unit. This is why the old unit had more wires (3 phase AC) going from it to the old combo unit mentioned above.

cheers,

 

[Mike_C]

Yes, I had the same issue where they did not include the nut for the alternator output, but I also found that the nut left from the old regulator fit. They must intend on us using that one.

Also my 2003 BX-22 did not have the bushing either. Like you, I used the small bolt and collared spacer. I noticed others mentioned that kit as BX7310, but I also got the BX7310A, so the "A" kit must be the difference with the bolt sizes and spacers.

 

[Silvergrizz]

I Know this is an old thread, but I wanted to give credit to the original author Charliebrn, and updates by Electron8 and RichT. It has been raining here all day, so decided today was the day to get this upgrade done. Great information and pictures (also gleemed the Amsoil filter # SDF20) I sure it would not have gone as well without this great advice. I don't post very often here, cause I'm usually looking for advice rather than offering. Thanks again for a great install article.

Bob

 

[blackmajicwoman]

I just finished the BX7310 Alternator upgrade to my BX1500. After dealing with Ronnie at tractorsmart.com and my local dealer, Kubota told both of them that the kit was not available for installation on a BX1500. No reason was given for why this was so, but at the advice of Ronnie and my dealer and after reading this thread quite a few times, I proceeded with the upgrade anyway.

I purchased all of the parts separately staring with the Kubota IG-L 40amp 12V alternator I found on ebay (the seller has quite few of these - NEW) for $90. Quite a savings than if I purchase new from the dealer. I then purchased all of the other parts needed from tractorsmart.com. Ronnie helped me identify all the parts needed. Grand total for everything came to $173 (shipping included). If purchased at my dealer, K2561-98620 kit (BX7310) cost $289 plus shipping, so I saved over $100.

I follwed Charliebrn's instructions. The only mod that had to be made was the lower mounting bolt (one that goes through the cast bushing) had to be trimmed by 3/8" as the end of the bolt was about 1/8" from the belt. I assume the cast mount on the BX1500 is a little smaller in thickness than the BX18xx or BX22xx. Also, I did not have a bushing inside the cast mount, as Charliebrn said needed to be removed. Other than that, everything else matched to a 'T'!

To ease my mind, I did not connect the charging lead to the alternator, as I wanted to test the output first. I fired up the BX1500, put my meter on the alternator, and whalaa, 17.2VDC, which is within the spec of the Desno alternator.

One last thing, as was mentioned in this post, my wiring harness kit did not come with the red rubber insulating boot or nut for the output lug on the alternator, as was mentioned in a previous thread. tractorsmart.com is tracking this down for me. Thank you Charliebrn, and updates by Electron8 and RichT.

Now, onto adding the lights!!!

 

[twinsticks]

Dealer just ordered me the bx 7310 high amp altenator upgrade kit for my 2005 bx 23 total price 183.00 be here in 5 days.... Now I can install two 55 watts forward and two rearward on two switches and not have to worry about killing my battery .. Cant wait dealer called back said I should have by thursday now yippee