Loader Rebuild Cylinder and Valve Question

[Doug_Norman]

I have a Kubota L3130D HST with an LA513 FEL and I need to make two repairs.

1. The left hydraulic cylinder that curls the bucket is leaking (just dripping) and needs to be rebuilt.
2. The FEL hand control valve that raises and lowers the FEL is sticking.

I'm hoping to make the repair myself, so I'm wondering.

1. Where is the best place to order parts?
2. Is there information available on how to make these repairs? I'm mechanically inclined and don't mind fixing things.

I'm also not opposed to bringing it to my dealer, if that is really the best advice. I brought them a cylinder in the past and watched them repair it. It was a bit entertaining - I thought they would have some special tool to install the new seals (o-rings?), but it was pretty much a brute force operation.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[/pine]

I'm no expert on the cylinder...or the valve for that matter but I would check the linkage (joystick) and I would also pull off the lower spool caps and check for rust/gunk etc. on the end of the spool that could be making it stick...
good luck...

 

[BeezFun]

I bought the shop manual for my FEL, it has instructions on rebuilding control valve and cylinders. Probably worth the money to pick one up for your loader. As far as parts, I'd order them online from Messick's. I can't remember where I bought my manuals, might have been from Messicks.

 

[Doug_Norman]

check the linkage (joystick) and I would also pull off the lower spool caps and check for rust/gunk etc. on the end of the spool

Thanks Slash Pine - Yeah, I did all the "easy" checks hoping maybe something just needed some grease. But it appears to be in the valve itself.

 

[Doug_Norman]

I'll give Messicks a try. Thanks.

Any advertisers on this sight out there who can help? I'd be happy to patronize your business.

 

[JRobyn]

When my LA853 loader cylinders started leaking (internally) I briefly considered rebuilding them myself, but it usually takes some pretty heavy stuff like bench vises and cylinder nut wrenches that I would have to find or fabricate and I learned on this forum that there is a significant risk of damaging new seals if they are not installed exactly right. So I opted to use the local hydraulic repair shop who do cylinder rebuilds day after day. NOT the dealer! IIRC, each Kubota seal kit ran about $50. They used aftermarket kits for about $35 each after they found that Kubota parts would need to be ordered. The cost to rebuild two cylinders was only $200. They also did a few extras like polishing the old rods, and they bench test them after rebuild. They work perfectly and are also now guaranteed. I figured it was a really good value.

I concur with slashpine on checking the spool caps for gunk regarding the valve sticking issue. They are a known problem area.

Good luck!

- Jay

 

[Doug_Norman]

Local hydraulic repair shop? I'll check around for that.

 

[J_J]

Doug_Norman,

How did you check the valve for binding?

If it is cable operated, the cable could be binding.

If lever operated, is the lever pivot points lubed?

It might be a good idea to tear the valve down and inspect and clean.

Could be a small bit of rubber or metal hanging up on the spool.

Sometimes the the valve will bind if the mounting bolts for the valve are tighten to much.

If you are going to tear down the valve, do it in a clean place and use a magnet to catch the parts.

Lube everything with hyd fluid and put it all back together.

 

[Kenonf]

Hey Doug,

I just resealed all four of the cylinders on my LA680.
The hardest part was removing the nut from the rod, to remove the collar around the rod. I ended up putting the rod end back in a loader pivot point and using a 3/4" breaker bar and a two foot long pipe extension.
A couple of picks and out came the seals, the main wiper on the rod end actually crumbled.
I had to call a friend to double check which direction the ridge on the internal rod seal went, ridge to the outside.
My rods were in good shape, no nicks or scratches.
Give it a shot it was not too bad.
Ken

 

[Doug_Norman]

How did you check the valve for binding?

It is lever operated. By sticking I mean it is no longer smooth to operate. For example if I start in the home position and start to lower the boom I will slowly push up on the lever until it finally jerks a bit and the boom slams downward a bit. It also feels a bit "crunchy" to operate. Interestingly though, the bucket curl (left and right lever motion) feels fine - it is smooth.