Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I think any good grease will work . . . the spec for moly is mostly for its high pressure qualities. Important thing for many grease types is not to mix base types, as some greases don't work well when mixed with other greases (e.g. lithium base with clay base etc) - - I'm no expert here. Good practice, especially when switching grease types, is to pump away until the new grease cleanly is exiting the fitting. This is safe to on the fittings we're dealing with. In some apps, this can't be done, such as a spline shaft going into a blind hole or where grease seals should not be over pressured. In those apps there will be a restriction on how much grease should be inserted.

I use my finger to "scoop up" most of the excess grease, then paper towels to wipe the pivot/pin. Otherwise things get black and yucky in short order!

bumper
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints #12  
You also have the 63" snow blower correct? What do you plan on using for chain oil?
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Most specialty spray-on chain oils are pricey, and are nothing more than a good heavy oil diluted with a carrier that allows the oil to penetrate - then the carrier evaporates leaving the thick oil in place.

You can make your own chain lube using 90 weight gear oil mixed roughly 2 parts oil to 1 part mineral spirits or paint thinner - the thinner takes some hours to evaporate, so best to do this either after use or a day or more before. I prefer synthetic gear oil like Mobil 1. You'll need some sort of applicator (bottle with long tip etc).

Alternately, the manual says chain saw bar oil is good, but I think it slings off too easily - - sure does on a chain saw, but then the chain saw has a little pump which feeds a steady stream of oil into the chain bar groove.

bumper
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints #14  
You have to move the joystick all the way to the right, past the first detent. There is no detent on the left. It only takes a few tries to get used to it, and then you can feather.
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints #15  
Hey, forget the snowblower hook ups, where's the pic's of this alleged, new B3050 tractor :D
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints
  • Thread Starter
#17  
210drive,

When I first start my B3350, even though I use the glow plugs for the correct amount of time for the temperature (2-3 seconds as it's stored warm around 60 F), the engine starts within a second or two of cranking. But then it doesn't light off and run smoothly on all 4. Rather it misses and chugs along for a few seconds before it smooths out. It does this to a lesser extent even if the engine is already warm. Does your's behave in the same manner?

I've had 3 Kubotas before this one, so I'm familiar with the starting "drill" and none behaved this way. Just wondering if this is normal and maybe due to the DPF?

thanks for your input,

9.5 hours on the B3350 now!

bumper
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints
  • Thread Starter
#19  
I chose not to get the rear work lights on my 3350, figuring I'd get LED's. I ordered these on eBay:

7inch 36W CREE LED Work Light Bar Flood 4x4 Offroad Spot Save on 72W 12V 24V ATV | eBay

I've tested just one of these against the two 35 watt halogen front cab lights that come stock on the 50 series. Light from the one LED is far more uniform and at least visually provides better illumination that the two halogens. The only downside is that I'll have to make an angled bracket for them to they'll mount on the rear light arms that currently hold the orange lights.

I'd previously ordered the switch - - cab is already pre-wired for the rear work lights.

bumper
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints #20  
Very cool...I'd like to go full LED eventually with mine.
 
 
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