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#1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: west-central NH
Posts: 131
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Greetings,
First, thanks to everyone, who provides such useful information in this and other forums. Surfing, I found this site invaluable in assessing my options for upgrading my tractor. I've joined in the hope that I might, eventually, be able to help someone else in their decision making process or in solving some problem with their tractor. And, I do have a question. In the end I traded in my old 1750 for a new 7800, which I've had for about two weeks. It is an awesome tractor, and I highly recommend it to anyone even remotely considering it. I've ditched and graded my driveway with it with a Woods RB72, moved sand from the sand pit on the back 40 (I've always wanted to say that), to fill potholes in my farm road, and hauled split wood for the past couple of weekends from timber pile to wood crib. The power this tractor has in such a small frame is amazing. I could never have ditched with the old tractor (about 500 foot of driveway up a steep hill). In the spring I'll be mowing and brushhogging with it. Some guys go middle age crazy and buy Harleys. Others buy Kubotas. But, on a crisp, fall day, tooling down the farm road with a loaded bucket, in my insulated Carhartts and with a cigar in my mouth, I'm an Easy Rider. Anyway, on to my question. I have to drop the ROPS to fit the 7800 into my barn. So, every time I take it out I rescrew the ROPS into position. When I'm done playing, I mean, working and have to drop the ROPS, the right screw is always jammed solid and can't be budged by hand. I have to use a small piece of angle iron through the top hole on the screw to loosen it. It is always the right screw and it does it no matter how tightly or loosely I set both screws. I can live with it, but it is a mystery to me why it happens. Any ideas? Again, thanks! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Washington
Posts: 696
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Some guys go middle age crazy and buy Harleys. Others buy Kubotas. But, on a crisp, fall day, tooling down the farm road with a loaded bucket, in my insulated Carhartts and with a cigar in my mouth, I'm an Easy Rider. )</font>
Personally, I can't think of a better way to have a mid life crisis. I have had exactly the same thing happen with the right bolt on my B7500. Finally I lightly greased the threads and haven't had the problem since. As far as why it happens...... Could it be one of those Northern Hemisphere things??? Greg |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: central New York
Posts: 2,801
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I'll go with Gregs thoughts on the lube at this point. Another attempt would be to run a tap or anouther bolt on past where you might be going at this point. Good Luck with your new B there is a good difference between the two.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: NorthEast,CT
Posts: 262
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I wrestled with the same inconvenience [img]/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]and simplified the process by drilling out the nut with a 5/8" drill bit and substituted a 5/8" pin,flat washer,compression spring and retaining clip [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] , now it's only half of the pain [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] ..RayBee
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#6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 52
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RayBee, I have the same style folding ROPS on my B7500 and have thought about using a pin, but got to wondering... Did Kubota use a bolt because they need the strength of a threaded fastener to keep the hinge from spreading open in a bad rollover? Or is it just for redundancy in case someone leaves out the existing safety pin? I sure would like to know before I start drilling, which I probably wouldn't do until my tractor is out of warranty.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: central New York
Posts: 2,801
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Offically speaking, the modification would fail a osha test! That is a illegal modification, same as drilling rollbars to mount lites. At least I've seen that written up with explanation.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: NorthEast,CT
Posts: 262
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Art: .....I agree with you, [img]/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] and there are those who would not tamper with matress tags, for fear of being turned in to the bedding police [img]/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
I only offer my modification as my solution to the annoyance and certainly each owner should deal with it in a manner that is consistent with their opinion on safety issues. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] Best regards, ...RayBee |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Far Eastern Central MA
Posts: 135
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narcnh,
I occasionaly get the same problem... I found that if I wiggle the top section of the ROPS front to back while I am trying to back the bolt out, I can usually get the bolt to move without resorting to "additional leverage". I got frustrated with the amount of time it took to back out the bolts before I could fold my ROPS. ...the the nut that is welded to the inside of the ROPS is about a 1/2" think and the bolt went about another 1/4" past the nut (so one could install a pin in it)... This meant that I had to turn about 3/4" of threads to get the bolt in and turn 3/4" of threads to get the bolt out again. What I did was to grind off the threads on the last 1/2" to 5/8" of the bolt. This allows me to push the bolt through the nut most of the way and then catch some threads to hold it in. It still "sticks" occasionally, but generally its much faster to install and remove. |
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