Using a bx23 to tear up (remove) a sidewalk?

[Nilesw]

I am thinking about buying a bx23 or 22 and I was thinking of all the projects that I could use it for. I was wondering if it could be used for tearing up a sidewalk that runs in the yard of my house. I want to relocate it to run in different direction. So will a bx23 do this?? If so how would you recomend getting this torn up??

Thanks
Niles

 

[art]

It definitely should be able to do the work.

 

[Nilesw]

Exactly how would you suggest going about it? It is about 20-25 feet of concrete sidewalk pour even with the ground. It has been ther 15 years.

 

[Clammer]

Art sold me a bx22 and I used the backhoe to tear up a sidewalk and concrete patio. Then used the FEL to load the pieces into the dumpster. No problem at all. The bx23 should be able to handle it with ease.

 

[Henro]

First I would suggest you get a tooth bar for your loader.

Then you would use the loader to push the toothbar under the edge of the sidewalk. Lift and it would probably just break apart. If it did not break, a smack with a sledge hammer would probably crack it.

You will be surprised what you can do just with the loader.

AND you always have the backhoe to do the dirty work if you need to. You would catch the edge of the sidewalk with the backhoe bucket, and curl it to lift that edge...something will break...

15 weeks or 15 years...not much difference. The BX22 or 23 will show that sidewalk who is the master! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Rimmer]

Niles --

Last fall we had our front porch expanded in order to build a sunroom, and had the old sidewalk removed at the same time. The guys who did the work brought a Terramite T7 (Kubota D1005 engine). The Terramite has significantly stronger hydraulics than the BX23, but the BX23 should be able to handle the job anyway.

Here is their method:

They backed up to the sidewalk so that they could reach across it with the backhoe, then used the BH to lift the opposite edge. First they tried lifting and dropping the edge to get the concrete to break. This stuff was 45 years old and tough! Dropping it didn't work, so they gave the youngest guy on the crew a big sledge hammer. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif While holding the edge of the sidewalk up with the T7, the hammer operator smacked it as many times as needed to get it to break. They continued with this, lifting sections and breaking them up with the hammer.

I had them dump the rubble out behind my garden, and plan on using it as riprap when I get around to fixing the washed out dam on the pond in the old hog pen. A few of the pieces are about three feet long, but most are roughly one foot square. That took a bit of bashing, but made it easy to pick up and move with the Terramite's FEL.

By the way, my sidewalk was about five inches thick, and I figure the pieces run about 60 to 70 pounds per square foot.

If you do this, wear the appropriate PPE!!! Safety glasses for sure, and whatever else you think you need -- face shield, hard hat, etc.??? /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Here's another tip -- I knew better, but forgot. When they came to place the new concrete, of course they had to wash out the truck when they were finished. I didn't designate a wash-out area, so of course they used my gravel driveway! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif After the stuff cured I tried breaking it up with a sledge hammer, but didn't have any luck at all. Then I got smart and brought out the BX23 and used the BH to pull up the thin layer of concrete on top of the gravel. Once it was loose it was a simple matter to walk around and break it up with a little two-pound hammer. Of course, it would have been even simpler if I hadn't let them do that in the first place, but then I wouldn't have gotten the extra BH time! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[RobertN]

Yes you can. And, it is really easy!

Get your bucket under a corner of the concrete. Use just enough lift to get the corner starting to lift.

Using a 16lb or 20lb sledge hammer, smack the concrete near the center. If it only cracks, then folow the crack with the sledge till you break it. Continue till pieces easily load in to the bucket.

If it is just a walk, you would be amazed how easy it is to bust up with a sledge and a rock bar. Even for larger driveways, it really is pretty easy. Get the rock bar under the edge, and smack the corner with a heavy sledge. Then, follow the cracks.

 

[Charlie_in_TX]

What happens to the steel in the concrete? Don't ya'll have rebar in you sidewalks? I have pored 120 yards of concrete at my house (garage, drive, patio, barn, sidewalk). All of has #3 rebar on 16in center or less. Surely the sledge doesn't brake the rebar.

 

[gsxr1100]

yes and no. I removed mine with 5 inches of concrete and flag stone. I have pictures if you want to see them with the BX22?? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Also noted in the above post rebar is a concern. My new walk ways are 6 inches thick, 6 feet wide, and 30 feet long with huge radius. Plus have Massachusetts Turnpike rebar every 4 inches in it! I called in a favor. Next thing I know I have enought for a brige! So it will NOT remove concrete with rebar. It will only move it around. You would need to j-hammer the side into section then BH it.

Just wear the seat belt since some pieces are heavy and cause the front end to come up in the air QUICK!

 

[Inspector507]

Sidewalks in Ohio almost never have rebar in them, just wire mesh. And we have a bigger freeze/thaw/ground heave problem than TX