BX2200 intermittant ignition failure

[SPYDERLK]

I have highlighted and emphasized the part of my true quote that likens the relay activation circuit to a near "zero" current case. That established it follows thru orderly thought that such [high activation impedance] relay capable of pulling in at well below 12V has no added value in this case. Its OK that it can ... and could be critical in a different circuit situation - just not of any real benefit here.

,,,,This is what I was bringing out in my response to your initial post about the relay characteristics. [[ From future posts I see that you know the pertinent principles ]] but did not convey them in the 1st post. This could lead some, less sophisticated in electrical things, to simplistic conclusions.

larry

You seem to want to ignore that there is some kind of voltage drop across contacts in the safety circuit. This is a fact since the starter motor solenoid does not properly activate, but does work as designed when other means are used to apply battery voltage to the solenoid.

You appear to want to claim that any 12 VDC relay will work to fix the problem. But you have no specific measurements or data to back up this claim.

Why would one recommend use of a relay that MIGHT work, when a relay designed for use in 12 VDC systems, and which is guaranteed to activate at voltage as low as 7 VDC is readily available and proven to work well in this application?

Your whole argument, which offers great opportunity to confuse, is based on the likelihood that the chosen interposing relay will draw less current than the starter solenoid. This is almost certainly true. But without taking measurements of circuit characteristics and having a specification sheet of the relay being applied, one can only guess, but not be sure, that a given relay will work.

So one can do one of two things:

1) Use a relay that is proven to work in this application, and will likely still continue to work if the safety circuit contacts continue to degrade, OR,

2) Try any 12 VDC relay available, and see if it works. If it works, hope that it will continue to work if the safety circuit contacts continue to degrade.

Confusing? Not really.

Saving a couple bucks by following choice 2) was not worth the risk to me personally. Others may feel different, no problem with that. Hopefully the decision will be made with full understanding of costs and risks of each choice...

I think we beat this horse to death. You are welcome to have the last word...

Bill

Edit: I guess there is a choice 3) Do nothing like I have done for the last three years and enjoy performing the "click, click, click...Click" Ritual....

[[ I guess I should take that part back. ]] ... So. never mind.

 

[Henro]

Hi,

I know I said Spyderlk could have the last word...

But I do not get here that often so I began to wonder if he was some kind of troll on the site, as he has shown to be capable of quoting multiple previous posts in the thread, but not so capable of responding to specific points questioned. OR even restating what his position is...(or perhaps he tried to, but the clutter of all the quotes may have made it difficult for me to find it? ).

Anyway I did a quick search of his name here and conclude he does try to be helpful. This is after only reviewing several posts though.

Unfortunately, this thread has degraded into a pi$$ing contest, rather than a thread that could continue help others solve the stated problem.

I would like to think that the specifics I have posted will be helpful to others experiencing the same problem. I do not know how to be more clear than to identity two specific courses of action related to the issue at hand, and the reasons why they differ.

Actually in this thread I have only been repeating what has been stated in the past by kubmech and others, in case others are not familiar with those threads. Perhaps emphasizing certain points for the purpose of clarity.

Hopefully this thread may still be helpful to those experiencing Kubota start problems.

For the record, since I made the modifications my BX has started every time without a single click click sound. Probably at least 30 times now. I have made it a point to shut it off more frequently than normal for the purpose of testing.

My last post in this thread... Honest!

 

[deadhorse]

I don't know who is responsible for solving the starting problem. I have been fighting this problem for two years. I installed the relay yesterday, problem solved. So, to whoever is responsible for the fix. Thank You!!!!!!!

 

[Code54]

Having an issue now - can someone tell me where this relay is located (BX25) so I can order the part and replace it.
THANKS

 

[Jay4200]

Having an issue now - can someone tell me where this relay is located (BX25) so I can order the part and replace it.
THANKS

DITTO!!! (OP=me)

 

[KennyV]

Hi,


Those relays KennyV pointed to look like good 12 VDC relays. But if they need close to 12 VDC to activate, then they may not work for the purpose of compensating for voltage drop across the various contacts in the safety circuit feeding the relay coil.

Bill

Just noticed your concern over the voltage needed to energize the relays I linked.... Checked all of them and they all energize at Just below 8 volts, also they all drop out and release at a little over 4 volts...so they will work perfectly ... KennyV

 

[SPYDERLK]

Those relays KennyV pointed to look like good 12 VDC relays. But if they need close to 12 VDC to activate, then they may not work for the purpose of compensating for voltage drop across the various contacts in the safety circuit feeding the relay coil.

Bill

Just noticed your concern over the voltage needed to energize the relays I linked.... Checked all of them and they all energize at Just below 8 volts, also they all drop out and release at a little over 4 volts...so they will work perfectly ... KennyV

Not a real concern here due reasoning stated:

The circuit loss is due to the relatively large current [Amps] drawn by the solenoid coil. You will be feeding this coil thru the closed relay. Your IG switch circuit will only see the small current the relay coil draws [fractional Amps]. Thus the relay coil will see full OCV [>12] until the starter kicks and pulls the whole system down a V or so. So no problem with activating or holding Voltage.

 

[Henro]

Uh...no...SPYDERLK, YOUR LOGIC IS FLAWED.

Just posting this rebuttal so others who may not have read the entire thread are not mislead.

No need to rehash specifics written above.

KennyV it does look like the relay you found should work well in this application...:thumbsup: