BX2200 intermittant ignition failure

[Jay4200]

I remember reading about several BX2200s having some kind of problem that results in the keyswitch doing nothing when you hit start - just click, click, click. Then it starts. Mine is doing that now. I think it was a grounding line that needed to be re-connected or something like that - don't exactly remember. Please enlighten me.

Still amazes me that a machine with so many design flaws remains popular. I hate mine.

 

[gwdixon]

You might have read my post on the issue.

Anyway, buy a 3' long ground cable and attach it to the engine lifting bolt (an eye bracket near the valve cover on the right side). You can leave the eye bracket off and in a safe place for if the engine ever needs removal. The cable can be bought from any discount auto store.

The old battery cable attaches on the left side of the frame so the engine cowl will need to be removed. (Easy job...2 nuts, two bolts.) There is also a wire attached to the OEM grounding bolt. Put an extension on this wire so it can be grounded to the engine bolt/battery cable as well.

Put the cowl back on making sure the firewall tabs are in place and the job is done. (Cost: <$15, Time: 1 hour.)

Any questions, just let me know.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I remember reading about several BX2200s having some kind of problem that results in the keyswitch doing nothing when you hit start - just click, click, click. Then it starts. Mine is doing that now. I think it was a grounding line that needed to be re-connected or something like that - don't exactly remember. Please enlighten me.

Still amazes me that a machine with so many design flaws remains popular. I hate mine.

It seems to be that the power thru the key switch start contact is not strong enuf to energize the solenoid with authority. A better connection closes the solenoid with a "better click" and the hi amp contact is made. This can be done by a push button switch acting to connect some good wires between the plug in solenoid tickler and the + Batt terminal on the starter/solenoid. ... I put a conveniently located switch under the hood. If key start just clicks I just leave the key in RUN and reach under the hood and push the button. 100% effective.

 

[Kanook]

I have had this problem caused by low voltage getting to the starter solenoid on a Kub B1700 and a JD F525. Over time the safety switches on the pedal, pto etc build up a resistance and cause the voltage getting to the solenoid to be insufficient to pick it. In one instance the voltage getting to the solenoid measured below 8 volts but 12.8vdc at the battery. In the JD case it was caused by a poor connection at the key switch and the Kubota had a resistance at the clutch switch sufficient to cause the voltage drop.

 

[davesl708]

As mentioned resistance builds up in all the safety stuff.
There is a relay you can install in five minutes that corrects the problem permanently.
It is a JD starter relay that plugs in for <$30.
I don't have the part number on hand but there are several threads that give the number.

I love my BX. The starter problem mentioned has been the only problem in 1400hrs.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I love my BX. The starter problem mentioned has been the only problem in 1400hrs.

No steering problem yet? What year is it?

 

[davesl708]

No steering problem yet? What year is it?

It is an 03

 

[Henro]

This seems to be a common problem. There is an old thread somewhere where Kubmech goes over the reasons and the solution, which is using a low voltage interposing relay that is placed between the safety circuit and the starter solenoid.

I FINALLY got off my butt and ordered one of these relays two days ago, and it was shipped today. Here are the details. Bought off of Amazon and it included free shipping.

John Deere AM107421 Starter Relay Kit AM107421, 316 318 160 165 180 420 GX75 SRX95
Sold by: Hartville Tool
$29.31

This is the John Deere product. I am sure you can do something on your own cheaper if you are up to it. I am technically capable but decided to just order what has worked for everyone else in the past, as I was confident of my ability to procrastinate for another year or two, and have become quite tired of the click, click, click routine before the eventual engine start...

Bill

 

[dickfoster]

This seems to be a common problem. There is an old thread somewhere where Kubmech goes over the reasons and the solution, which is using a low voltage interposing relay that is placed between the safety circuit and the starter solenoid.

I FINALLY got off my butt and ordered one of these relays two days ago, and it was shipped today. Here are the details. Bought off of Amazon and it included free shipping.

John Deere AM107421 Starter Relay Kit AM107421, 316 318 160 165 180 420 GX75 SRX95
Sold by: Hartville Tool
$29.31

This is the John Deere product. I am sure you can do something on your own cheaper if you are up to it. I am technically capable but decided to just order what has worked for everyone else in the past, as I was confident of my ability to procrastinate for another year or two, and have become quite tired of the click, click, click routine before the eventual engine start...

Bill

That seems like a lot to spend for a simple relay but I guess if you got the socket, harness and instructions it might be worth it. I'd just dig one out of my automotive electrical junk, aka **** box.

 

[Henro]

It is supposed to be plug and play. A kit so to speak...

It is a little more than a "simple relay" as it is apparently designed to be able to energize with as little as 4 volts applied to it. Remember the issue is voltage drop across the safety circuit contacts...

It has been reported to work well. More than that at this point I do not know...

Bill

edit: Just reread the OP's post. Granted I only have 800+ hours on mine, but aside from the start issue, which looks like a simple fix, and the fuel level gage not reading accurately, I don't find it a bad tractor, and certainly don't "hate" mine...:thumbsup: