Need Info BX2200 3 pt Hitch Lift Arm Modification

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

I can not find the post about drilling new holes in the lift arm bracket to raise the 3 pt higher. Anyone have the link to that post? Trying to figure out how high on the bracket to drill the new holes. How much more lift did you get after the modification?

Thanks

 

[ronjhall]

Tom
Hope this is the thread you want. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Click Here

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Nope, did this already, need the one where you drill a new hole in the arms. But thanks for trying.

 

[ronjhall]

Tom
Give this link a try.

Click Here

 

[Henro]

I just did mine on Friday.

1.25 inches is the amount I moved the hole up on my lift rods. That gives just a shade of clearance when the lower link arms are all the way down, between the top of the lower link arm and the inside edge of the lift rods clevis. 1.5 inches would not work. If I had done 1.5 inches like Charlieburns did, when fully lowered there would have been interference between the lower link arm and the clevis.

This modification does make a difference. My 6' landscape rake that used to be impossible to turn around now makes it with an inch to spare. The 6 foot back blade has about 6" clearance.

I am not sure moving the hole in the lower link arm would make much difference if you have already moved the hole in the lift rod. I took a look and it seemed that in the full up position you would gain little if the hole in the lower link arm were moved, because the lift rod is aligned at about a 90 degree anlgle to the lower link arm.

Attached is a pic of the landscape rake after the modification. This was impossible beforehand... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Henro]

My carryall still will sit down on the ground without any problem, so I don't think this modification takes anything away from the BX 3PH capability.

Wish the lower link arms were a little longer though...

Here is a shot of the back blade clearance...

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Bill,

Did you take the lift rods off and drill them ,or did you drill them in place? What size drill did you use?

Thanks, just what I was looking for.

 

[Henro]

The one on the right I just unscrewed the bottom half, and on the left I removed the whole thing. Both ways are real easy.

I used a drill press. To be sure I marked each side, and drilled a pilot hole on center first, on both sides, then used a 0.500 inch drill to make the final hole. I did not remember if I checked the pin in my drill index to see if it would go in a hole smaller than 0.500 inches, but I think the original hole is very close to 0.5 inches.

I think it would be much better to drill them in a drill press if you have one. More likely to get the holes square that way. Then again, considering what they do, drilling by hand would probably be good enough, if you are fair at drilling. I would not try to drill them in place myself. Too easy to take them of and put them in a vise and press downwards...

Attached is a photo that someone else posted. Sorry I don't remember who. I did essentially the same thing. As the lower links go down, the tractor side of the clevis get closer to the lower link arm. If you put the new hole too high they might hit. In my case 1.25 inches left about 1/8 inch clearance, maybe a shade less...

 

[DannyD]

Henro,

I have the 5' model of rake that you have. Mine has 2 tabs on it that when installed, hit on my bottom links and will not allow me to put the top link on, cant get it short enough. Seems that there is not enough length from the ball to the angle in the arms. How did you beat this or fix it

 

[JerryG]

The design of the hitch frame on the rake is the problem. You need to weld a strap behind the part of the frame that protrudes and contacts the sway links. Then cut the protruding part of the frame off. By doing it that way you will maintain the distance and also keep the frame square. Most frames have a flat strap there, but to cut costs this manufacture has bent a single long strap instead of using three individual ones.