Fuel additives

[96must]

I own a band new L2501 with 10 hours on it, this is the first deisal I have ever owned and the newest I have ever owned, should I run additives through it with each fill to keep engine clean from beginning? If so, what would be a good product to run through it

 

[mikesee]

The very best thing you can do is keep the tank full of diesel. Don't wait until the tank is empty. By displacing the air with fuel there is less chance of condensation and corrosion of the fuel float. A lot of people like the stuff in the White bottle.

 

[varmint]

There have been literally hundreds, if not more, of posts discussing fuel additives. Basically, something like Powerstroke will help prevent algae from growing in stored fuel (yes, it really does) and diesel from gelling in cold temperatures. Of course, it should also boost the cetane rating, help with combustion deposits, and keep your teeth white. It should be put in fuel when you bring it home, and not just when you put it into your tractor's tank. There have been various charts showing different properties of competing brands, test results and the like posted over the years on TbN, as well. There are some trick enzyme treatments used by steam boiler guys for stored heating oil that does amazingly good things, but that's another thread.

 

[3930dave]

The very best thing you can do is keep the tank full of diesel. Don't wait until the tank is empty. By displacing the air with fuel there is less chance of condensation and corrosion of the fuel float. A lot of people like the stuff in the White bottle.

^ What he said.

Best practice for diesels has always been top up the tank at the end of every operating day. That's even more critical (IMO) for the hobby category many of us fall into..... you pull it out for a project, then at the end of a long day think "I fill it up tomorrow/soon..." - next thing you know days or weeks go by....

Read, read, and read some more on additives..... lots of discussion out there. After my research, I settled on Stanadyne a few years back - there are other good ones out there.

What's probably at least as important is where you buy your diesel from. Generally, the best choice is a HIGH volume truck stop - you want really fresh fuel - where I buy mine will sometimes get 2 tanker train deliveries a day.

Diesel that sits around can collect water, and esp. today, that easily leads to microbial contamination (algae). Treatment for that includes biocide addition - be aware of what this is, but don't go there unless you need to.

Esp. if you rely on your tractor (clearing snow, downed trees....) keep at least one spare fuel filter at home. Many of todays compact tractors have a small single stage filter, that can plug up relatively quickly. Winter use means a risk of frozen filters (esp. w/o additives), one more reason to keep spare filters handy.

Synthetic oil and a block heater are also a great way to get through Winter successfully.

Rgds, D.

 

[newbury]

Check what you are running for a fuel pump. Many of the newer diesels (in VW's and 1 ton trucks) were using Bosch which were designed for LSD, and European diesel, not USA ULSD. They have had a lot of fuel pumps destroyed. LSD provides more lubricity. Other than that water and algae are two main problems.

And make DARN sure nobody puts gas in it. Don't be in the habit of saying "gas up the tractor" or your wife or friend may just do that.

 

[MHarryE]

Not sure where Newbury got his information but Europe has been in front of North America on diesel emissions and in fact required ULSD before it was required across the board in North America. Condensation and algae growth can be a problem so keeping water out is good, but my experience testing diesels has been the filters end up being the algae collection problem - quickly plugged filter. I haven't had an algae problem in the drier area where I live but there are humid areas in America where a biocide is very helpful. When living in Europe, I had a list of fuel brands recommended by BMW for my car to prevent premature injection system failure. The list consisted of the large name oil companies. However unlike the Bosch system in my BMW, your tractor has a Denso system. Japanese fuel tends more toward kerosene. Consequently Denso makes an extremely robust system.

 

[JWR]

I have been running diesels of one sort or another since 1979. The short version of my comment is "Don't bother." The longer version is: 1) if you expect it to be below 10 degrees mix in No. 1 (kerosene) up to 50% as all heavy equip operators in the northern climes do. 2) I equate use of additives to psychological comfort. Probably won't hurt. In rare cases it may even get some moisture out of the system. Make your engine cleaner ? No proof of that exists. 3) If you must use an additive, I agree with Mikesee that most people use Seafoam. Has to be some reason why it is twice the price of the others. I do when I suspicion impurities or just filled the tank and the thing sounds different. Certainly nothing like "required" or "important" or mandatory. 4) It is very worth noting that no major tractor manufacturer recommends additives. JUST USE CLEAN FUEL !! Being brand new, that thing will outlive you and run just fine for many years without ever ingesting a drop of additive in my opinion.

 

[varmint]

Depending on your area, you may be able to get your diesel home delivered... as heating oil. It's fresh, and around here, comes from the same storage tank at the fuel depot as road fuel... just some red dye, and viola', it's off road diesel.

The advice about getting it from a high volume dealer is good: I once filled up a diesel Rabbit (I know...) in "Nowhere" PA, in desperation, at a remote gas station that probably got a diesel delivery twice a year. This was in Jan., yet it turned out I got summer blend. I learned to never allow yourself to get desperate. A truck stop would have been nice.

 

[newbury]

Check what you are running for a fuel pump. Many of the newer diesels (in VW's and 1 ton trucks) were using Bosch which were designed for LSD, and European diesel, not USA ULSD. They have had a lot of fuel pumps destroyed. LSD provides more lubricity. Other than that water and algae are two main problems.

And make DARN sure nobody puts gas in it. Don't be in the habit of saying "gas up the tractor" or your wife or friend may just do that.

Not sure where Newbury got his information but Europe has been in front of North America on diesel emissions and in fact required ULSD before it was required across the board in North America. <snip>

Newbury got his info from many sources. European diesel has a scar rating under 460, sometimes even 400. US fuel allows 520 micron wear scar with the HFRR fuel test, but the maximum wear allowed by Bosch and other designers is 460 micron. So the larger particle size here acts like sand and tears up the fuel pumps.

YES, Europe has been running ULSD for a long time, but they keep the larger particles out. I did not write nor mean to imply that Europe does not run ULSD. I meant to imply the fuel pumps were originally designed on LSD and then for "clean ULSD".

 

[kuboman]

Just to clarify John Deere, CaseIH and New Holland all recommend using fuel conditioner. They all sell there own brand.