Loader Leaking lift cylinder LA450 Front End Loader

[KubotaDoug]

My local Kubota dealer won't reseal my right lift cylinder. They replace $500.00.
Is there a secret to removing the end cap? The cylinder is still pinned in the loader to hold while I break cap loose with 24" pipe wrench it doesn't want to budge. My next step is the blue wrench (heat).
If everything goes bad is there a good aftermarket cylinder available?

 

[JRobyn]

You've got a perfect opportunity for a little business for your nearest hydraulic service shop. I think it was about $75 for my shop to rebuild my loader cylinders. I don't think I could have done it cheaper myself. They had all the right special jigs and tools. They used aftermarket seals that were way cheaper than OEM. Tested them after the rebuild and guaranteed their work. For the best recommendations, call a local grading service and ask who they use for hydraulic work.

 

[KubotaDoug]

Thanks for the reply. I have a hydraulic shop close by that helped me out with a portable log splitter. They said they could set me up with seals for this cylinder. Thought I would break it down and see if it was just seals. Thanks!

 

[toyotadriver]

The tractor before starting the repair

Showing the leaks

To remove the cylinders I just had to remove these bolts and slide the pin out.

Front of leaking cylinder

Disassembling the cylinder

Removing the hydraulic rod

Rod removed

This is the rebuild kit

Piston removed by removing the nut

Piston end….the light color ring is the seal. It’s a pain to install

Under the piston ring is a rubber o ring

End cap with replacement O rings

Seal installed inside the cap. It’s a tight fit. The seal is the light color ring inside

 

[KubotaDoug]

Ok thanks!! Time to try some heat on the steel cylinder. My pipe wrench just wants to chew up the the aluminum cap.

 

[toyotadriver]

I used a pipe wrench and it worked fine but the proper wrench is a spanner wrench. Might try buying one of them.

The only hard part of the job is replacing the tan colored seal on the piston. The rest of it is easy. I damaged one of the kits I used and had to buy another one. The kits were about $25 each.

 

[KubotaDoug]

Well I was not successful at getting the cylinder apart. I used a 36” pipe wrench & heated the end with a acetylene torch. Got hot enough to melt the end seals. Took it to hydraulic shop. They got it apart. Well long story short the cylinder is now a boat anchor. Internal corrosion & galled threads.
A new OEM cylinder from local Kabota dealer is $900. So I’m looking for an aftermarket cylinder that’ll work. Does anyone have a source?
The hydraulic shop can get a replacement but both ends have cross tubes and the back cross tube is wider than loader attachment. I can shave the cross tube to fit then there goes any warranty.
I’d appreciate any suggestions.

 

[JRobyn]

That sux. No chance to chase the cylinder threads and maybe replace just the cap?

 

[KubotaDoug]

That sux. No chance to chase the cylinder threads and maybe replace just the cap?

Half threads damaged severely on cylinder and deep scores on cylinder wall. Piston is damaged too.
Shop has new cylinder to use but the rear attachment is same size as front attachment. So the Rear has to be milled to fit Kabota mount, front mount is ok. Suppose Kabota did this to make you buy the $900 cylinder. The aftermarket cylinder is $248 + milling.
Thanks for your response!

 

[sandyc]

Amazon also sells an adjustable spanner for reasonable bucks.