Oil & Fuel Fuel Additives, when or not too add

[James Henry 01]

Hi,Guys...

I am wondering when is the best time to add fuel additives, and really when to add what certain additives for best results. After buying the tractor the gentleman handed me a bottle of Stanadyne and suggested
that i keep adding it to my fuel, which i have at each fill up.The question is should i, or should i not?? I recently picked up a bottle of the Stanadyne lubricate thinking that it might clean an lubricate at the same time. Summer is here practically and i wanted to cover my bases concerning the heat as well...what ever that i need to do to help that little sweetheart give me her best...She is working, shining and looking tractor model sweet....She deserves the finer treatments..lol
Hey....that obnoxious rattling noise coming from the ROPS just about drove me crazy!!! Well, we went to Lowe's and picked up 2- 4"x 5" vinyl repair kits that has adhesive on one side (cheap enough) cleaned then placed them around the front and the equally on both side then cut the bolt holes out for the bolts. Then Slipped the ROPS into place, and we slipped the front bolt's into the front bolt hole's to secure the weight of the ROPS system on each side and only tightening it down slightly. Then in the second bolt holes we slipped the bolts partially into the hole while aligning the extra washer's one on each side (washer's on the inside) while holding the correct washer size on the inside of the ROPS Bar so that the bolt can go through the washer allowing it to then tighten up with the rear retainer bolts of the ROPS system removing and excess play that also added the "Boot, Scoot & Rattle to our Orange Ladies". "And Wallah" no rattle or sanity lost! Just don't ask my wife concerning the sanity part...;-}
Happy Days and Happy Tractoring to you all....

james

 

[RjCorazza]

Can't comment on Stanadyne products, but most folks add a winter product to prevent gelling, and some add a summer product for lube.
I generally use fuel additives in the winter only.
The best thing you can do for fuel is be careful how you store and filter.

 

[Wagtail]

Have a look through some of the "Similar Threads" at the bottom of this page.

Personally, I've started adding 50ml of "Fuel Doctors" additive to a full tank, but that's after experiencing a biological contamination in my tractor's fuel tank. It's a biocide + it breaks down contaminates to a microscopic level & suspends it in the fuel allowing it to pass through the entire fuel system to be burned up by the engine. It also adds to the fuel's lubrication properties and acts to stabilise the fuel for long-term storage.

The same product works in 4-stroke and 2-stroke petrol too.

 

[davesl708]

Good fix on the ROP.

I use Power Service (white bottle) year round. Never an issue. Lubes the fuel pump and gives a cetane boost.

 

[Looking4new]

I use Power Service (white bottle) in winter and Power Service (grey bottle) in summer. I have never had an issue with fuel jelling since I have been using it.

 

[msb1766]

I do the same as Looking4new. No problems with fuel.

 

[3930dave]

I use both Stanadyne Performance and Lubricity year-round, with good results.

I use them even on the old CAV system on my 3930, as well as my (relatively) more modern 7.3L. I like how they designed it to de-emulsify tiny water particles.

Corrosion can create problems in any era of system, but the issue has gotten worse with more modern diesels. As fuel-rail pressure goes up, and injector geometry goes down, a tiny water particle that might just pass through an older mechanically injected system can end up blowing the tip out of an injector in a modern diesel.

Plenty of folks also have good results with Power Service (easy to find usually) and OptiLube XPD (harder to find). Injector pumps have always been spendy, and modern injectors have become non-low-cost too....

Water management matters a lot, and if you read up on the history of the back-room ULSD maneuvering, the engine manufacturers wanted a lower Wear-Scar limit that what Big Oil paid to have legislated. Adding legitimate lubrication to modern diesel fuel is wise, IMO.

Rgds, D.

 

[thepumpguysc]

DAVE nailed it.. I build injection pumps for a living & have seen it all, concerning NO additives in fuel systems.. I feel bad for folks that don't use it.. The older Roosa master/Stanadyne pumps & CAV's are grandfathered in and are the exception to the additive rule..
EVERYTHING ELSE should run a added lube in the fuel..
I'm replacing a pump housing this week because the rotating metal parts inside the pump literally ATE THRU the aluminum pump hsg..
The hsg. alone is 571.00 then the 10 miscellaneous parts that need to be replace & then the 500.00 labor to do it..
You have to weigh the pros & cons when using it.. can I afford to get the pump rebuilt/replaced every couple of years?? When does the cost of the additive become greater than the cost of a pump??

 

[Wagtail]

Ta 3930dave & thepumpguysc. I have to admit that, prior to my bio-contamination, I was very reluctant to put in a fuel additive. On the one hand, fuel production here in Aus is closely monitored to a strict standard; on the other hand, there are so many different "additives" promising wonderful results that it seemed like so much snake-oil being peddled.

I am grateful to the bloke who put me onto the "Fuel Doctors" product (they're a Queensland Co.) as it rescued my fuel system and gave me my tractor back. You are correct in the cost of a good product, though. For me, one litre of the "Fuel Doctors" cost A$38.00 from an autosupply store. A$165.00 for a 5 litre container.

It's worth paying though.

 

[Oldoak]

I use Power Service (white bottle) in winter and Power Service (grey bottle) in summer. I have never had an issue with fuel jelling since I have been using it.

I do the same and never had a fuel issue of any kind.