B2650 dual rear remotes.

[ovrszd]

I am going to add top and tilt cylinders shortly as I do alot of boxblade work, rototilling up and regrading areas of my property that were old farm field, and too rough on me and my tractor to mow!! At my age I am looking for smooth!! I am researching top cylinders now, and plan on at least getting that one soon. It has been tough to find top cylinders short enough as I need 18" collapsed length and most are 20 or 21"

You'll love TnT when you get it going. It is very hard to find a top cylinder that short with the correct ends. You might consider building one. I built mine. Bought the cylinders in the correct size. Cut off the existing ends and welded on what I needed.

If I was adding TnT for grading work and could only afford one at a time, I'd do the side link first. For smoothing, blading work, it gives you the most versatility.

 

[ovrszd]

You are surely right, and that was going to be plan B if needed. After trying a couple different set ups, I fabbed up what is on there now. As I am retired from the operating engineers, I have used alot of levers in my life, and this set up ended up being very comfortable for me to reach right beside the seat to operate the levers. My original thought was to use cables as you said, and get them up front more forward, but ended up going this way so I could also reach the levers from the back of the machine when hooking up impliments.

Yep, I think they turned out very well.

I'm a lever guy too. Still run a blade part time maintaining 50 miles of gravel roads.

 

[rkidd]

Yep, I think they turned out very well.

I'm a lever guy too. Still run a blade part time maintaining 50 miles of gravel roads.

I had forgotten that. l used to spend alot of time on a John Deere 570, which I loved, and a Cat 12 grader prepping roads and parking lots for paving for the company I worked for. l also ran the paver and paving crew, and would then go pave them. So any bird baths, it was all me. You learned how to grade!!

 

[rkidd]

You'll love TnT when you get it going. It is very hard to find a top cylinder that short with the correct ends. You might consider building one. I built mine. Bought the cylinders in the correct size. Cut off the existing ends and welded on what I needed.

If I was adding TnT for grading work and could only afford one at a time, I'd do the side link first. For smoothing, blading work, it gives you the most versatility.

I am just getting the top cylinder now to play with as I use my tractor to plow snow with and can play with it with my ballast box. Add tilt in the spring when I get ready to grade. I found a top cylinder from Surplus Center that is the right length and has the right ends on it. It is item number 9-7682-08 under top link cylinders. Maybe you could take a look and tell me what you think.

 

[ovrszd]

I am just getting the top cylinder now to play with as I use my tractor to plow snow with and can play with it with my ballast box. Add tilt in the spring when I get ready to grade. I found a top cylinder from Surplus Center that is the right length and has the right ends on it. It is item number 9-7682-08 under top link cylinders. Maybe you could take a look and tell me what you think.

That will work very well. Excuse me if I explain things you already know, but we need to talk about the "lock valve" on this cylinder. This prevents cylinder drift that is commonly caused by leakage in your valves.

PROS: Works excellent to maintain the setting you have chosen. When your valve is in the neutral position the ports on the cylinder lock valve are blocked. So no movement can occur. When you activate your valve lever the hydraulic pressure exerted on the lock valve cause it to open and the cylinder functions as normal. Let go of the valve lever and the lock valve slams shut maintaining the cylinder at it's current position. Really nice for delicate dirt work or if carrying something such as a brush cutter.

CONS: If your tractor valves are equipped with a float position it cannot be used with this cylinder. The lock valve senses no pressure so locks the cylinder in place and does not allow it to float.

I don't have a lock valve on my TnT cylinders. I never use my float function. I could have benefitted from the lock valve. But I was cheap and built a cylinder without one.

 

[rkidd]

Thanks Richard. I appreciate you looking for me. I am new at designing hydraulic systems so appreciate the advice. I thought thats how the lock valve worked, but wasnt sure. Seems like a decent price also from my research. If I get that one I would mount it upside down because of the height of the lock part and can hit my rops when folded down.

 

[ovrszd]

It won't care about upside down. Might need some elbows, etc., to get you hydraulic hoses pointing in the right direction. It's very important to think about the hose thing. They actually need to be longer than you might think initially. Fasten the cylinder to the tractor. Then take ahold of the other end and pretend you are lifting/lowering your 3pt. At some point in this range the hoses are going to be kinked pretty tight if they aren't long enough to create a nice semi-circle. If you build them too short you will stress your hydraulic couplers and could possibly cause early failure of the O-rings that seal them.

Post pics and updates as you progress!!!!

 

[rkidd]

Thanks Rich. Will do.

 

[s219]

NICE WORK!!!

 

[rkidd]

NICE WORK!!!

Thanks s219. Going to order the top link cylinder today along with the brackets to secure the hoses running up front to the bucket. It will be good to see how it all works.