Improving MMM quality of cut, blades how sharp?

[Volfandt]

Many if not most of the brand new MMM's need to be properly setup on the tractors they end up pairing with. Dealers may or may not do this and just deliver the MMM installed with whatever adjustments were made at the factory.
My 2004 BX23 gives a nice finish mow and has since I properly adjusted it as described in the manual.
Tire pressure has alot to do with the finish cut also.
Adjusting the MMM isn't hard to do on a BX.
Make sure the tires are at the proper psi.
I made up a serviceable blade gauge out of cardboard. Basically you turn the outer blades side to side and measure the blade tips to ground on both out sides. If one side is higher than the other adjust until they are equal. With that done turn the blades front to back. Measuring from the center blade measure the leading tip to ground and then the trailing tip to ground. The leading tip should be approx 1/4" lower than the trailing tip.
A critical mistake some folks do is make their measurements from the deck as opposed to the blade tips.

Kubota does make high lift blades and there are several aftermarket brand of blades that are good as well, i.e. gatorblades.
I use gatorblades on mine.
Generally MMM's are shipped with Kubota's std lift blades.

Good luck
Dave

 

[sugarloafguy]

Hi,

I am with Dave on this one put Gator Blades on the mower and set up exactly as the owners manual says if you have not done so already. I used them on my New Holland 310GM RFM and on the brand new 914A MMM. The Auburn suspended decks, especially the rear discharge are notoriously difficult to get adjusted perfectly out of the box but the difference in cut quality with Gators is night and day, eliminating that "torn" look produced by the standard OEM NH blade. Not sure if Kubota offers a factor Gator P/N as New Holland does. I think I paid $7.00 for the mower leveling tool @ John Deere.

Brian

 

[dalola]

I used to think my (old) tractor & belly mower mowed well.....until I got a commercial zero turn

All good advice to follow here, to improve your tractor mowing experience. Blades & tip speed are big factors, get the best commercial blades you can buy, and keep them sharp. Slow down, and speed up (RPM).

Or, get a commercial zero turn and end the tractor mowing madness!

 

[timswi]

I used to think my (old) tractor & belly mower mowed well.....until I got a commercial zero turn

All good advice to follow here, to improve your tractor mowing experience. Blades & tip speed are big factors, get the best commercial blades you can buy, and keep them sharp. Slow down, and speed up (RPM).

Or, get a commercial zero turn and end the tractor mowing madness!

+1 on the Zero Turn..Bought a Z724 a couple of years ago--Love that thing for mowing.

 

[deathtoblackberries]

+1 on the Zero Turn..Bought a Z724 a couple of years ago--Love that thing for mowing.

Makes sense to own 2 machines if you have acres of property, but for my 1 acre I can't justify that. Tried downsizing to just a mower but 1 acre requires a FEL pretty regularly and less frequently a tiller or other 3 point implement. So the combo BX mower, FEL, 3 point is a perfect solution for 1 acre.

I'm going to order up some Oregon blades, tune/adjust the mower deck. The lawn roller I ordered has also arrived so I'm going to try to flatten/smooth the bumps in the lawn.

 

[timswi]

Makes sense to own 2 machines if you have acres of property, but for my 1 acre I can't justify that. Tried downsizing to just a mower but 1 acre requires a FEL pretty regularly and less frequently a tiller or other 3 point implement. So the combo BX mower, FEL, 3 point is a perfect solution for 1 acre.

I'm going to order up some Oregon blades, tune/adjust the mower deck. The lawn roller I ordered has also arrived so I'm going to try to flatten/smooth the bumps in the lawn.

I don't disagree with you...One of the main reasons I added the ZT was that I got tired of removing the BH and FEL every week to cut the grass. All of that R&R was starting to give me a few hyro line issues--No big deal on that, just went with the dedicated mower so the BX can sleep until needed for tractor stuff.

I would imagine a blade upgrade and deck tuning would help quite a bit..Do you cut WOT and at a reasonable speed (not as fast s it'll go in high)? Not being a smart *****..Just wondering.

 

[deathtoblackberries]

I don't disagree with you...One of the main reasons I added the ZT was that I got tired of removing the BH and FEL every week to cut the grass. All of that R&R was starting to give me a few hyro line issues--No big deal on that, just went with the dedicated mower so the BX can sleep until needed for tractor stuff.

I would imagine a blade upgrade and deck tuning would help quite a bit..Do you cut WOT and at a reasonable speed (not as fast s it'll go in high)? Not being a smart *****..Just wondering.

That is exactly the reason I purchased the JD X380 mower, swapping the FEL, BH, and mower deck on the B2920 every time I turned around was really annoying. I figured out my tricks for swapping them quickly but still dreaded that chore. I like the new quick connect FEL on this BX but honestly its not that much quicker than my B2920, saves a couple tractor climb on/offs. They positioned the hydraulic lines now so that they don't rub on the tractor and rub all the paint off so that's cool.

Ordered the Oregon G6 gator blades today. Now if this snow will melt and spring will get here already.

 

[flusher]

Sharpen the blades to a fine edge. Mow at high engine rpm and in the lowest forward gear.

Good luck

 

[RjCorazza]

Lots of good points. I keep my blades sharp, and at the factory angle. Cutting 25 acres per week I end up sharpening about every 2-3 weeks. For blades I am a big fan of Gator Blades... They maintain a good edge, give a nice cut, mulch a little, and last a long time.
On edit: I use an angle grinder with a 40 grit flap disk for sharpening... Awesome.

 

[deathtoblackberries]

In reading up on the Oregon Gator blades the outer couple inches on G5 and G6 are infused with tungsten carbide for a longer lasting edge.