L2550dt front axle problems

[repete]

Can you get the bevel gear cover off to check those two bearings as well? There is just a large "O" ring that seals that area and I have reused mine several times. If those bearings are shot then you will be back into the case in the future to replace the same bearing you are replacing today. Also, when you refill the front end with clean grease, be sure to remove the vent plugs to allow grease into the outer part of the axle. The grease has to come down through the tube and fill the wheel area and it will not displace the air.

 

[Groo]

I did check all the bearing on the dry side. Only the bottom one was bad. The rest spun smoothly.

That plug couldn't have been missing too long. I think it was dirt coming up that took out the bottom one, not running dry.

Thanks for the pointer on the outer top plugs. I was wondering why there was a "separate fill port" there when it is a common oil cavity.

 

[repete]

I did check all the bearing on the dry side. Only the bottom one was bad. The rest spun smoothly.

That plug couldn't have been missing too long. I think it was dirt coming up that took out the bottom one, not running dry.

Thanks for the pointer on the outer top plugs. I was wondering why there was a "separate fill port" there when it is a common oil cavity.

Did you understand about the fill plug vent? I drilled for a 1/8" hose barb fitting that would allow me to connect a hose to up under the engine compartment and ran it through a cheap fuel line filter just to get clean air. If you drill a 1/8" hole that comes out along side the vent dipstick then drill and tab just far enough for the pipe fitting you should be fine. I too was rather surprised there was no vent capability, only what breathed around the seals.

 

[Groo]

I was thinking I'd drill the main fill plug for a vent, that way if I mess it up; I'm only out a plug.
I was thinking a bellows breather, just run it up to the top of the hood then loop it, or run it into the clean side of the air filter....but starting to rethink some of that. I wonder if they seal it to keep moisture out of the oil. If that's the case, I'd probably want the bellows or a desiccant or TRAP filter on the breather.

 

[repete]

I figured I would just let it breath air with no restriction. Having mine in a wet environment, I figured it was going to breath by the seals regardless so I just gave it a better place than to suck water.

 

[Groo]

well, I was getting ready to put it together and realized the seal on the pivot joint was crap. Some penetrating oil I was trying to use to clean it up was running out what should have been a sealed joint. I suspect that is likely the root cause of all the problems. I hammered it apart and can better see that the pivot bearings are also garbage. Glad I didn't just slap it together, because it wouldn't have lasted too long before the garbage bearings toasted the new one with their contamination. back to the parts shopping.

 

[repete]

I would pop the other side cap off as well and check it out for contaminates. At least get fresh grease in both sides and drain the pumpkin as well.

 

[Groo]

I drained the other side and picked up 2 gallons of gear oil to top it all off (takes 6.8gts per the book)

 

[Groo]

This job never ends.

I finally get the parts and have some time to work on it, and I either screwed up the seal or got the wrong one. I can not get the two halves together enough to get the snap ring in. I am thinking it is the wrong one.
I even put the outer back on the tractor set it down on a board and then jumped up an down on the bucket. I wouldn't budge, then I start pildriving on it with a big slab or wood, about the equivalent of a RR tie. still nothing.

I was thinking threaded rod might force the two halves together, but the more I think on it, I probably have too big of a seal. I certainly don't want to crack the housings seeing that they are more than $700 each (no matter how much it sounds like that was my goal).

 

[repete]

Are you trying to do it on the tractor or on the bench? Kubota made a change to the seal some years ago after problems with the original. My recollection is that you can remove the 90 degree portion from the axle end and reassemble the unit while upside down. Having done it both ways, I found I had a lot of trouble with the shims that were placed to adjust the bearings. Let me go out to the shop in a bit and check the package part # for the spare I keep on the shelf.

Do not hammer on it.