L2950 clutch problems

[crazybill]

I have this Kubota that is in great condition except for the clutch problems. When I try to put it in gear it grinds a lot. Acts like the clutch isn't operating properly. I have adjusted the pedal according to the owners manual, but I can't find the access plate the manual says is on the right side of the clutch housing for clearance adjustments.
I believe it is the wet clutch. The tractor has a placard that says it has the "everclutch".
Also has a loader.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. What does the inspection plate look like? Where can I get a true shop manual? What the heck is "everclutch"?
-Bill-

 

[rbargeron]

The "Ever Cutch" was the Kubota name for their hydraulic clutch. It was high-end product and built to last a very long time - for"ever". Most of them are doing just that. The clutch itself is a wet type - meaning it has several discs running in oil with polished drive plates between the discs. There is a hydraulic "ram" that squeezes the whole business together when you let the pedal up. The pedal actually just moves a valve. It doesn't move the clutch plates directly. Unlike a conventional clutch, when the engine is off, there's no pressure and no drive.

Your symptoms sound like there is a problem in the hydraulic pressurizing circuit somewhere - it is not relieving pressure. Maybe not very serious but it will definitely take someone with the manual for your model and a hydraulic pressure guage.

There is a "clutch and shuttle" valve on the side of the transmission case. It directs hydraulic pressure (about 150 -200 psi) to select either forward or reverse motion. When the clutch pedal is down, the pressure drops to near zero. My guess is that the valve may be malfunctioning and pressure is getting to the clutch pack all the time.

Call a few dealers before picking someone to work on it - these units rarely give trouble so some dealers have little experience - no point educating them on your dime.

I should mention that, although unlikely, it is possible the problem is in the clutch pack itself - which would mean splitting the tractor - and some checkbook damage. But it is more likely something small and cheap like a bad o-ring. Good luck.

 

[rbargeron]

Another question - does the shuttle work ok? When the shuttle is in neutral is it easy to shift from gear to gear? If so the clutch pack & internal return spring are probably ok - maybe just the outside valve has a problem.

As always, cheerful refund if info is bogus /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[crazybill]

rbargeron, Thanks for your reply.
If the shuttle is in neutral it shifts in and out of gear without problems. If it is in neutral, then the shuttle shifts fine. If one is in gear, the other grinds.
Thanks for your explanation of the clutch. I'm in the process of getting the shop manual, and I will follow your suggestions.
-Bill-

 

[rbargeron]

My knowledge is limited to a somewhat larger tractor - the L5450 (about 60 hp). It has the "ever clutch" AND hydraulic shuttle.

I'm interested in the comment you made about it grinding if either the shuttle or the trans is not in neutral. Does your tractor say "hydraulic shuttle" on it?

If it does have a hydraulic shuttle, and the shuttle is in neutral, and the transmission is in gear, you should be able to move the shuttle lever forward or back without grinding.

On the other hand, if the shuttle is manual type, and the trans is in a gear, you would have to push the clutch pedal down to move the shuttle lever into forward or reverse without grinding . If your statement holds that it grinds either way, it says to me that your tractor (1) has a gear-type shuttle, (2) has a problem in the clutch valve or (3) has a disconnect somewhere in the linkage to the valve.

Have you had this tractor since before this problem arose ? Did it come on suddenly or gradually? Sorry to ask so many questions. Dick B

 

[crazybill]

Dick,
I am working on this tractor as a favor for a neighbor. He bought it used and it has had this problem from day one.
He took it to a local dealer and it was returned to him as "fixed" but it still had the problem. That fits with your comment about some dealers having experience and some not.
It grinds with the clutch either 'in' or 'out'. I have had experience working on Kubota tractors, but mostly on my own, which is smaller.
I appreciate your interest in this problem and questions are part of the process. This is a good neighbor and I am eager to repay past favors.
-Bill-

 

[kubmech]

Bill, being that it is an everclutch, and the fact that the owners manual most likely covers all the different set ups for that model , I think the access plate you are reffering to would only apply to the dual stage clutch. Which would be located on the right side of the bell housing. If there is a loader installed, to gain access to the plate you need to remove the right side loader upright. However, being that your machine is an everclutch, the access plate would not do you any good. The straight everclutch is a true wet clutch, what this means is, it's a series of discs which are spring applied and manually released, manually released by pushing the clutch pedal. The clutch pack sits in the trans oil, the plates are designed to work in oil and this keeps them cooler and less prone to the wear experienced by normal dry clutches. This particular style clutch is not Hydraulically applied like the hydraulic shuttle tractor. Now as far as the problem you are reffering to: This clutch is designed with a clutch brake. The brake applies when the clutch is disengaged and stops the input shaft from rotating thus allowing for a clean shift with no grinding, I have seen problems with the brake itself and it results in what you have described. The other common problem is the clutch plates themselves have been overheated at some point and have warped. With warped plates the clutch disc wont fully seperate from each other and the input shaft will continue to spin, also causing the gears to grind during a shift. Both the clutch brake and clutch assy. are an assy. I'd give this job about a 9.5 on the hammer scale, without a manual specifically covering the everclutch it's much more difficult. Drop by your dealer and ask if you can take a look at a service manual and review what your getting in to before you decide to dive in. Read through the "mechanism" section as well as the repair procedures. If I remember right the everclutch needs to be shifted with the clutch in. It still operates exactly like a regular clutch, it just sits in an oil bath and has multiple discs to make it last alot longer.

Dick, I'ts been a while but I'm pretty sure the 2950 was not available with HYD shuttle like your larger machine. Your clutch pedal actuates a valve wich operates a fwd/rev hyd clutch pack. And I believe?? you still have a dry clutch set up.
Does your tractor say hyd shuttle and everclutch?? I just don't remember seeing that set-up before.

Kubmech