Unhook the FEL on 2410
- Thread starter LGinIA
- Start date
Hi LG,
My real world experience consists of having taken off and put on the LA352 loader on my B2410 twice. The owners manual is pretty clear in the case of the removal and re-installation. The one area that could trip you up has to do with the surface you're working on and how level the tractor and loader frame are. If you take the loader off on soft ground and it either sinks too much or settles at an angle, it can make things a little tough re-installing. If you can work it so you are storing the loader on a hard surface then you are in pretty good shape. Other than that I would say it is a fairly easy task.
Rob
My real world experience consists of having taken off and put on the LA352 loader on my B2410 twice. The owners manual is pretty clear in the case of the removal and re-installation. The one area that could trip you up has to do with the surface you're working on and how level the tractor and loader frame are. If you take the loader off on soft ground and it either sinks too much or settles at an angle, it can make things a little tough re-installing. If you can work it so you are storing the loader on a hard surface then you are in pretty good shape. Other than that I would say it is a fairly easy task.
Rob
frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
lg: i have a b2400, and have only taken the fel off once, but it is not difficult. the most important thing is to have tractor and fel on fairly level and solid surface.just look it over and u will see that it was pretty well designed for easy detach and re -attach. just use common sense.
PaulT
Gold Member
Not sure about the 2410, but the 2710/2910 TRACTOR owner's manual says nothing about it. The FEL owner's manual is where all of the info is. I am just learning myself. I also bought a backhoe, and the instructions are on a label right on the backhoe. Thinking the FEL would be similar, I looked for the label on the FEL. Turns out that the only instructions for the FEL are in the FEL manual. Did you buy the tractor used without any manuals? I have a 402 loader with 1 pin on each side, which I think is different than yours. Otherwise I would scan my directions and post them. Maybe someone with the same loader and a scanner would volunteer/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.
Like the others said, its pretty easy, once you get the hang of it, but a little confusing for the first time. (Now do I move the frame forward by lowering the boom, or was it curling the bucket, or was it raising the boom.../w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif).
PaulT
Like the others said, its pretty easy, once you get the hang of it, but a little confusing for the first time. (Now do I move the frame forward by lowering the boom, or was it curling the bucket, or was it raising the boom.../w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif).
PaulT
GlueGuy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,659
- Tractor
- Kubota B7500
LG,
Like the others here have stated, make sure you're on a level & hard surface (like concrete). If the 2410 is anything like my B7500, it's almost as easy as pulling the two pins (a couple of other steps involved), and unplugging the hydraulic lines. My hydraulic lines are color-coded, so getting them back in the right place is easy.
The GlueGuy
Like the others here have stated, make sure you're on a level & hard surface (like concrete). If the 2410 is anything like my B7500, it's almost as easy as pulling the two pins (a couple of other steps involved), and unplugging the hydraulic lines. My hydraulic lines are color-coded, so getting them back in the right place is easy.
The GlueGuy
Dale Binkley
Bronze Member
A hint that helps me - photocopy the pages of the manual for installing and removing the FEL from the tractor. Either laminate them or cover them in plastic and hang them in the area where you will be working. Saves time looking for the manual and keeps the grease and dirt out of your manuals.
I don't have a scanner, but I'll give it a try from memory:
Raise loader boom high enough so that park stands (on boom) can be rotated.
Stop engine.
Remove cotter pins and rotate park stands down, re-installing cotter pins.
Start engine, Dump bucket approx. 20 degrees down, lower boom and "raise front wheels slightly"
Stop engine.
Remove the retainer pins from the columns at the boom pivots(bad terminology here ? - where the arms sit in the loader frame).
Start the engine, run at idle, roll back the bucket to rotate the arms up and out of the frame.
Stop the engine.
Disconnect the four hydraulic connections at the control valve and put on the protective caps.
Start the engine, back away from the loader.
Really not a big deal except for keeping things level. The first time I did it I had a hard time getting the loader to rotate out of the frame when I rolled back the bucket. I'm pretty sure now it is because the bucket was not quite level with the floor, and the loader got somewhat cocked in the frame. Based on a good post (by Bird and/or M.Sullivan I think), I knew enough to play around with tire pressure to get things leveled a little better this last time.
Raise loader boom high enough so that park stands (on boom) can be rotated.
Stop engine.
Remove cotter pins and rotate park stands down, re-installing cotter pins.
Start engine, Dump bucket approx. 20 degrees down, lower boom and "raise front wheels slightly"
Stop engine.
Remove the retainer pins from the columns at the boom pivots(bad terminology here ? - where the arms sit in the loader frame).
Start the engine, run at idle, roll back the bucket to rotate the arms up and out of the frame.
Stop the engine.
Disconnect the four hydraulic connections at the control valve and put on the protective caps.
Start the engine, back away from the loader.
Really not a big deal except for keeping things level. The first time I did it I had a hard time getting the loader to rotate out of the frame when I rolled back the bucket. I'm pretty sure now it is because the bucket was not quite level with the floor, and the loader got somewhat cocked in the frame. Based on a good post (by Bird and/or M.Sullivan I think), I knew enough to play around with tire pressure to get things leveled a little better this last time.
boluca
New member
Be sure to check the location of the hydraulic connectors.
Mine are color coded, unforatunately the color codes were
both put on the female end. I didn't notice until I had disconnected them. It took forever to figure it all out when I put it back on. I now have them color coded and the hookup pattern written in my manual. I put a dab of paint on both ends and on the metal bracket where they disconnect/connect.
Mine are color coded, unforatunately the color codes were
both put on the female end. I didn't notice until I had disconnected them. It took forever to figure it all out when I put it back on. I now have them color coded and the hookup pattern written in my manual. I put a dab of paint on both ends and on the metal bracket where they disconnect/connect.
Bird
Epic Contributor
Wheeldog, I had to put my loader on this morning to move a pallet of bricks and one bucket of dirt, then took it off again. I don't stop and start the engine as much as you do. I raise the loader boom high enough to dump the bucket forward approximately 20 degrees (and the exact amount ain't too important; in fact I probably dump it closer to 40-45 degrees), lower the boom to put the lip of the bucket on the floor (actually I have a piece of plywood on the concrete shop floor that I put the bucket on) and raise front wheels slightly (really just get the weight off of 'em), leave the engine running (gear selector in neutral), get off, remove the springpins (that's what the manual calls them; different from cotter pins), rotate the park stands down, and replace the springpins (in a different location, of course). Then I remove the springpins and mounting pins from the loader side frame, and roll the bucket back until the loader side frames rise up and out of the receiver of the main frame.
At that point I shut off the engine and move the joystick in all directions to relieve any pressure in the lines. Then I disconnect the hydraulic quick couplers, get on the tractor, start it up and back away.
However, I think you're right that the manual says to start and stop the engine more times and of course it says to only start the engine or move the joystick when you're sitting on the seat. I think I'm about as safety minded as most, but since my shop floor is level concrete, I only kill the engine once and get on and off once. It takes me the better part of 2 minutes to remove my loader or put it back on.
Bird
At that point I shut off the engine and move the joystick in all directions to relieve any pressure in the lines. Then I disconnect the hydraulic quick couplers, get on the tractor, start it up and back away.
However, I think you're right that the manual says to start and stop the engine more times and of course it says to only start the engine or move the joystick when you're sitting on the seat. I think I'm about as safety minded as most, but since my shop floor is level concrete, I only kill the engine once and get on and off once. It takes me the better part of 2 minutes to remove my loader or put it back on.
Bird
Bird,
Thanks for filling in the right terminology and the missing step (relieving fluid pressure). I didn't have my loader manual with me at work and I was winging it/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif.
As far as stopping the engine so many times, I wrote that in there because I remembered that the manual did say to do it (and that it seemed excessive). I'm able to put my loader off onto a concrete floor too and I did start 'cheating' by letting the engine run this last time.
Overall it seems like a neat little design. I'm also still getting the hang of changing 3-pt implements around and so far removing/installing the loader seems easier and quicker by far.
Rob
Thanks for filling in the right terminology and the missing step (relieving fluid pressure). I didn't have my loader manual with me at work and I was winging it/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif.
As far as stopping the engine so many times, I wrote that in there because I remembered that the manual did say to do it (and that it seemed excessive). I'm able to put my loader off onto a concrete floor too and I did start 'cheating' by letting the engine run this last time.
Overall it seems like a neat little design. I'm also still getting the hang of changing 3-pt implements around and so far removing/installing the loader seems easier and quicker by far.
Rob