Tiller slip clutch adjustment procedure

[upgw]

Today I was tilling with the BX 2200 and the 48 Inch First Choice tiller, turning the garden under, etc. Well, I was almost done and BAM, the tractor, like, STOPPED RIGHT NOW. I thought for sure I'd broken something in the drivetrain. When I examined the tiller, there was a huge 10+ pound rock wedged between a tiller blade and the tiller housing, the unit must have come from about 400RPM at the tiller to zero in zero distance. I can't imagine how much stopped force that generated. I was sweating when she wouldn't crank after pulling the rock out, but I just had the PTO engaged. Disengaged and all was fine. I'm guessing the slip clutch on the tiller is way too tight, I don't want to break anything stopping the drivetrain that quickly. Should I just back it way out until it slips "too much" then start cranking it back in? I marked both sides with yellow crayon so the next time I just nail a smaller rock I want to see if the halves of the clutch are moving relative to each other (slipping that is). Any thoughts?

The BX must have a pretty solid powertain...

Thanks,
- Patrick

 

[PineRidge]

Patrick is your tiller new or have you owned it for a spell. Adjusting a slip clutch on a tiller that has been around a while is a bit different than adjusting a brand new slip clutch.

 

[RonR]

My bush hog tiller shows a dimension to compress the springs to adjust it correctly. I think I have read that if a unit sits outside, the "slip" pressure might be higher than original.

If you do loosen yours, I don't think you want to have them slip a lot, or you will be buying replacement disk pads.

Best wishes,
Ron

 

[Killer_B]

UPGW,

I had exactly the same experience with my B7610 and woods 52" tiller. The tractor and tiller had about 1 hour on them when it happened. I'm looking forward to the responses to your question.

Killer B7610

 

[sweettractors]

<font color="blue"> Should I just back it way out until it slips "too much" then start cranking it back in? </font>

That is what I would do. Probably good idea to do that on all new machines with slip clutches upon arrival and then annually before the start of spring season.---Ken Sweet

Sweet Farm Equipment LLC *Used 3 Point Hitch Cultipackers in Stock*

 

[Egon]

I have adjusted the slip clutch for my tiller by;

Loosening of all the springs till impliment will not rotate
Run in this position for 10/20 seconds
Evenly tighten springs a little and check to see if you get rotation
Keep doing this till impliment rotates
Try impliment in field conditions for several minutes and then check to see if clutch is warm/hot
If so tighten a little more and repeat till impliment can be used without clutch getting warm
It should now be adjusted.

If clutch slips it will start to smell and get hot. It can't be adjusted when hot.
When tightening springs 1/2 turn at a time may be all that is required.
After use store slip clutch inside

Hope this helps

Egon

 

[HayDR]

To exactly set a 2-4 plate slip clutch you will have to set the clutch at the operating speed you will use it. A torque setting of 75nm at a PTO RPM of 300 will take 25% more HP to slip the clutch at 540 RPM's. Also you have to take into account the atmospheric pressure, relative humidity, clutch plate conditions and other factors. If you adjust the clutch every time you use the tiller would be best. This just is not done in practice. If you adjust the 2-4 plate clutch properly once a season then you will be 10-25% within optimum setting provided the same tractor is used. The best safety device is the operator. Even if the clutch is set properly and you hit something solid damage can occur.

 

[DK35vince]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The best safety device is the operator. Even if the clutch is set properly and you hit something solid damage can occur. )</font>

I'm not sure I get this.
Unless the operator has X-ray vision how is he to know there is something solid underground ?

 

[upgw]

Maybe about 10 hours on it in 2.5-3 years. This is the first things I've hit that stopped it cold. I've hit big rocks before but it either broke them in half (which is pretty impressive in itself) or kicked them out the back with a big jump...

Based on the feeback, I'm going to back off the clutch way out and then ease it back in until it slips a little when hitting small rocks but otherwise doesn't slip.. I suspect that's going to take some time. Better too loose than too tight, a new clutch is a lot cheaper than a blown trans!

- Patrick