Kubota 3130 Tie Downs

[Rory_Rhodes]

I just bought a trailer - 18' ramped trailer, 7000# electric brakes - and would appreciate any best practices or practical advice on tying down and moving my 3130 from point A to point B. Northwest Tool has a variety of ratchet straps to choose from, strap/chain combinations, chains, or straps only. The deck of the trailer is 2X6 planking with no "D" rings ( I could add if needed ). I'll be pulling with a 2004 F-150 w/ tow package. My tractor has a bushhog and loader to take into consideration. Box blade or bushhog would be attached most of the time. By the way, I just saw a fifth wheel trailer with bobcat still attached laying on it's sit, the right rear fender of a Ford ripped right off. Too quick of a left turn I guess. I would hate to have that happen.

Thanks for all of the help and words of advice as I picked out the tractor and equipment.

Pictures would be great!

Rory

 

[btolle]

There are lots of folks here who know more about it than I do but I never let that stand in the way of throwing my $0.02 in.

When I used to haul my old 8N on a trailer I had a couple of short chains I would hook to the front axle and the uprights on the trailer.

I had 2 "come alongs" that I used on the rear.

Once I figured out where the tractor was balanced at it was easy to load it up, hook up the front chains, then use the come alongs to tighten it all up.

I would be careful if you use any kind of straps. Be sure they are not rubbing on any sharp edges or the could break. Doesn't take many miles of vibration to cut a strap in half if it is up against a sharp edge. And, many straps will stretch and could allow the tractor to move around. Chains and steel cables don't stretch.

Bill Tolle

 

[DK35vince]

On my 18' trailer I have 8 D-rings so I have lots of tie down points depending on what attachments are needed to go along.
To tie down the tractor I use 4 chains and 4 binders.(1 for each corner of the tractor).

 

[RodgerF]

My trailer has welded stake pockets with a band welded to them to tie it all together. I dropped the chain hook down through the stake pocket, back up on the outside and hooked it to the stake pocket. For the front of the tractor I looped the chains around the axle near the steering knuckle. On the rear I attached the chain to the frame mounted hitch. I tightened everything up with chain binders.

I towed my TC30 to PA, about 250 miles this way. It never moved. I stopped and checked the chains several time but they never needed retightened. My TC30 also had the FEL and box blade attached.

Sounds like we're using the same trailer. You're tractor will be a little larger than mine but you should be ok with the B/B attached. With the bush hog you'll probably have some overhang. Try it forward and backward, see which way it fits best.

Good luck. It's only scary the 50 miles or so. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Rodger

 

[PapaPerk]

Oh this sounds familar. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Let me tell you what I have done. I have a Kubota 3830 Kubota with LA723 loader. Also have a Woods grader blade and a 72 Woods Bush Hog. I had a trailer built for the tractor 10000 lbs GVW. It is 18' long with a 4' dovetail. That means the trailer is a total of 18' in length and 4' of that length is dovetailed. It has d-rings welded on it for tie downs. It has the large flip up ramps like you see on bobcat trailers. These ramps are removable. Very important! I will explain why in a few.

The tractor itself has no good tie down points. So here is what I did. At tractor supply (they have some good stuff, some not...) I found some bolt on d-rings. It just so happens these bolt on d-ring's bolt spacing match perfectly to the two veritical holes on the front of the tractor's frame. You will see them on your tractor as well. They are on the frame (right and left) infront of the front axle. Anyway I bolted these on using grade 8 bolts. Very important by the way! So that gave me tie downs for the front. In the rear I ordered a large clevis from Northern Tool (used to be Northern Hydraullics). The pin is around 1". I put this in the draw bar. Had to enlarge the drawbar hole ever so slightly to get a good fit. This clevis is my rear tie down point.

I secure the tractor using 4 chains and 4 loader binders. This is the DOT approved method. The load is secured at all four corners. I use 5/16" grade 70 transport chain and hooks. And 5/16" binders. All of it is American made. Chains and binders are no place for buying cheap junk. By the way it took me a while to find good quality chain and binders.

The tractor with loader and grader blade fits nicely on the 18' trailer. I put the tractors CG just slightly ahead of the trailers wheels so that some weight is applied to the truck. This will prevent the trailer from swaying. When I have the tractor with loader and the bush hog it is a full load! I actually have to remove the ramps and stow them under the tractor on the trailer deck. This is not as ideal a situation because I have to muscle the ramps around. But it still works well. When hauling the bush hog I use nylon vehicle tie downs to protect the bush hogs paint. They work well. You just have to be careful they cannot touch a sharp edge. I use chains when ever possible. Chains are a great investment and you can really depend on them.

I tow all this junk with a Dodge Cummins 3500 single rear wheel (SRW) truck. The truck has tons of torque so it does well pulling the tractor and associated stuff. I estimate the weight of the trailer with tractor, loader, and bushhog to be around 8500 lbs. My truck weighs in just over 7000 lbs empty so it keeps good control of the trailer.

I have pulled the above setup around 2200 total miles. Usually around 100 miles per day. I normally pull it on the interstate at speeds from 65 to 70 mph. I have luckily never had any problems. The trailer tracks very smoothly and tractor stays put.

Pulling all this stuff around on the public roads is something that should be done carefully. Finding the right setup may take some time but once you get it you can pull your load with confidence and security. Good luck with your new machine! Kubotas are really great tractors. Especially the 30 series. Mine is a real work horse! Take care. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Rory_Rhodes]

Bill, Vince, Rodger and Papaperk - Excellent advice. Thanks for taking the time to help me out. I feel for those that have not found TBN or those that don't need good, old fashioned advice. It sounds unanimous, chains, not straps is the way to go.. Luckily, a trip on the trailer would be occasional, I bought the trailer more to haul building materials. Another question, when chaining the tractor, are there designated tie down points? Anyone willing to vouch for Northern's chains and binders? TSC is a pretty good drive from here, but I'd be willing to make it if needed. I pick the tractor up in a week, it may take a couple of trips to get it all to fit. Box Blade, Grapple and Post Hole Digger is all that's left to figure out and buy. Might be able to find these used, but they get snatched up pretty quick here in North Georgia.

Rory

 

[PapaPerk]

Rory,

Look again at my post. I describe how to attach the chains to the tractor.

The binders made in the USA sold by Northern are great. That is what I am using. I think they are made by Dixie. Just make sure they are made in the USA. Not for sure about their chain. But if you can get grade 70 transport chain that is made in the US then you should be fine. Mine is 5/16" I think. Just make sure the load rating is high enough for your load. Good luck.

 

[theboman]

If the 3130 is 4 wheel drive put the tractor in 4 wheel drive when towing and when you set the parking brake it locks all four tires.

I'm from the old school and the time or two I've hauled by 'Bota it was chains and chain binders.

 

[penokee]

Rory - I had problems the first time I hauled my L3130, couldn't find good place to chain to on front axle, without damaging something. Attaching 4 pics showing how I did it - used the Clevis on the rear as Papa Perk recommended, but tied the front chains around the axle per pics. Plan to use the bolt on d rings in the future as Papa does. This will give me angle ties on the front rather then the straight pull shown.

A few years back, I chained the Bush Hog to the trailer, rather then the Fergie I was using - BIG MISTAKE. Not a good idea to chain to the attachment.

Have fun.

penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[penokee]

Picture 2 - front tie down

penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif