Zero tractor experience - operating advice wanted

[radair]

Oops, accidently posted this in the JD forum!

I'm soon to be the owner of a BX-23 (delivery this week), but have almost no experience operating a loader or backhoe. I spent 2 minutes on a large excavator 10 years ago, and 10 minutes on a JD tractor pushing snow 2 weeks ago. I know the answer is stick time and more stick time, but does anyone have advice, tips, or tricks to share? I wish Kubota made a computer simulator with a pair of joysticks so I could get "seat" time at my desk. Maybe there's a market for that?!

For a while, my tasks will be easy FEL work to keep the driveway clear this winter - I have no concerns with this (other than driving into the garage with the ROPS up and other dumb stunts). I am more interested in tips for operating the hoe while building trails: bench cutting across slopes, moving boulders, rigging bridge stringers, etc. I'm hoping to play enough in the snow to become competent with the BH by spring.

I have read at least 100 threads on this site, so I've become aware of issues such as not shifting into neutral on hills, keeping the center of gravity low while moving heavy things, and being careful on sidehills. Any more of this kind of advice is appreciated.

TBN is by far the best site I have found, but if there's any other comparable discussion boards, please post a link.

Thanks - Rob

 

[Jimbrown]

"I am more interested in tips for operating the hoe while building trails: bench cutting across slopes, moving boulders, rigging bridge stringers, etc. I'm hoping to play enough in the snow to become competent with the BH by spring."

Holy whatever Bat man. You are talking a 500 page book here. "Bench cutting across slopes!!! Yikes. Moving boulders with a BX!!!! I am sorry a boulder to me is half the size of my pickup or bigger. Anyway the trick to learning is to keep the RPM down and go slow untill you get the feel for it. If you have played any computer games it is a piece of cake. Personally I think moving snow would be a lot harder than moving dirt or digging with the backhoe. Using the Hoe to build a trail? Horse trail, hiking trail, jeep trail? A BX ain't gonna cut it. Rigging stringers? I used mine to help build two pole barn type of structures-- It does not have enought lift height to get them up to where you need them. Having said that I use mine everyday for something. I simply do not know how I would get along with out it. I actually do. I would have to pay people to help me. I can afford it but it simply is not as much fun as doing it myself.

 

[Volfandt]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( I know the answer is stick time and more stick time )</font> There ya have it!
As a newbie BX23 owner w/less than 12hrs, I will happily tell you that the learning IS the fun with this handy little mobile excavating tool. It'll take practice & lots of seat time before you can get that smooth seemily effortless motion going. Kubota built "feathering" into their BH's and thats the trick but unfortunately the BH's hydraulics likes high engine RPM and to break the BX23 in correctly, you don't want to operate anywhere near WOT until after you've exceeded 50 hrs so you'll have plenty of time to get used to the controls with a slower & safer responce time.
Be careful when swinging the boom as it will go pretty fast even at half throttle. The bucket curl & dipper extend & retract works good enough at lower RPM's but feathering several movements at once slows it down almost to a stop.
I dug out several small stumps and dug out and planted a few small trees and it did very well. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Good enough to where I'm highly looking forward to full power operation.

A few words of caution.
Don't exceed 3/4 RPM until you surpass 50hrs. This is the recommended breakin to ensure long engine life.

BH control levers. The further you move the stick, the faster the implement will respond so get used to moving them "just enough" to get the responce you want and are used to.

Put the HST in neutral when working the BH and then you can use the BH and/or FEL to push or pull the tractor closer or further away.

Be extremely careful when working on unlevel grades.

Take smaller bites if instead of digging you start pulling the tractor towards your work.

I only had to wait a weekend for delivery and that seemed like TOO LONG. They gave me the operators manual and I must have read it cover to cover 5 times by the time it arrived.

Let us know & post some pics when you get it.

 

[radair]

<font color="blue"> "Bench cutting across slopes!!! Yikes. Moving boulders with a BX!!!! I am sorry a boulder to me is half the size of my pickup or bigger. ...... A BX ain't gonna cut it" </font>

These are trails primarily for mountain biking. In doing a bench cut, the tractor will always be on level ground that the BH has just excavated. I have been bench cutting and moving rock with hand tools (see attached), so I know the BX will do just fine and the ~4' width will be ideal. It will also save my back and a lot of time. I'm aware of the height & weight limitations, don't worry, I'm confident I'm not over my head.

Moving snow should be no problem, as my driveway is flat and straight. It's got to be easier than shoveling!

Some good advice anyway, thanks!

 

[dicker]

Hi

One thing that you should absolutely do before using your backhoe on your property or anyone elses, is to get a service location done to locate anything that can be buried on that property. That stump on the front lawn may have been planted over the gas or electrical service.
Another tip that I can give you, and this relates to what another poster said about leaving the tractor neutral and moving yourself around with the hoe. Although, I feel that this is for more experienced users, the tip is to use the outriggers to completely lift the back wheels off the ground. The higher you get the wheels off the ground, the less you will be pulled into the work area.

Good luck

Richard

 

[GregJ]

You're getting some good advice. I think the one thing I would offer is to practice dumping a load. There will come a time when you have a heavy load in your FEL and your tractor will start to tip. I had this happen when I was very green and I instinctively dumped the load immediately and it saved a rollover. Now.... I say instinctively..... I was green enough that it was PURE LUCK /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif that I pushed the lever the right way. So, I would advise, practice the emergency dump... and remember "Low and Slow".

As far as the BH, they are so easy to learn, within a week you'll be a pro. Just go slow in the beginning..... and stay away from anything breakable. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Hope this helps,
Greg

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( stay away from anything breakable )</font>

FEL and corner boards on a house are no match for the FEL, FEL wins everytime. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Do not ask how I know this. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[GregJ]

Don't forget the BH..... I "customized" the entrance to my shop with my FEL in my first week of operation....... And then, I thought it looked so good, I put a matching mark on the other side of the entrance with my BH the same week..... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Those darn things stick WAY out.

Greg

 

[v8dave]

Rob, I've sent you a private mail here on TBN with some operating notes.

 

[theboman]

I highly recommend getting a Tilt Meter if you're gonna be on slopes.