Ramps/Pickup Loading

[bcurrier]

I'm looking into buying a BX2200. Does anyone here load their compact or garden tractor onto their pickup? I haven't seen any ramps that are both long and strong enough to take the the BX. Shorter is stronger, of course, but I wouldn't risk a steep ramp. I'd like to avoid a trailer, if possible.

Bill

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Can't say strenuously enough--BUY A TRAILER.

NO matter how careful you are, or how many times you do it--all it takes is 1 time. Happened to melast summer. One ramp slipped and the other went, I flew off, my 700# Honda rider came down in slooooow motion right to me. 5 minutes later, I woke up thankful to be doing so. Note: Have done this 100+ times. .....best of conditions.

Main problem is ramp angle is too steep--haven't seen a viable design I would consider. Also, at the elevation of a pickup bed, a falling tractor can do a lot of damage. The BX is no light weight--even without the loader (1300# with the mower deck, I'd guess).

You can probably find a viable used small trailer for the BX for $400'ish. New ones here in Michigan can be had starting at $600, with steel mesh gate/ramp. Nothing great, just angle iron and plywood, car tires (2) and 2000# capacity. But will last as long as the tractor with reasonable care. Plus, you can use it as a big wagon around your property behind the BX.

Good luck!

 

[Bird]

There is no doubt that you could have ramps built by any competent welder, if you don't find ready made ones that would handle the job, but I agree with M.Sullivan. I'd buy a trailer that could be used for other things as well, and be safer. I have a 5'x10' tilt bed that I bought used for $400 that doesn't require any ramps, and I have a 6'x16' tandem axle with heavy angle iron ramps that cost less than a thousand new (for trailer and ramps).

Bird

 

[Chris]

I have seen at least 2 different B series tractors on the backs of pick ups around here in the past year. I, too, am in the market for a trailer for my old B7100, but will not consider hauling it on my truck. What I have been known to do with my Ford LGT 165 garden tractor is back the truck up to a bank, and drive the garden tractor straight onto the truck, effectively eliminating the ramps altogether. Obviously, this is only feasible if you know there is a loading dock or similar bank at your destination.
Chris in SW Va.

 

[bcurrier]

LOL - ok, I'm convinced! I really hadn't considered some of the less expensive trailers (or used, for that matter). I just didn't want to get into it for another 2-3 thousand. If I can find something safe and secure, as in solid and no-sway, for 500-800, that would be just fine. I have property several hours away from home that I have to tend periodically, so good trailering would be a must.

Bill

 

[TomG]

Most people around here have PU bed height loading docks. With a good dock, you almost don't need ramps, and if you do use ramps, they don't have far to span or much of an angle.

I have below grade cuts in my drive, and the side slopes are almost good enough. This spring I'm going to dig one out more and put in a log retaining wall. A dock should make loading safe and easy. If I didn't have a hill to dig into, I'd just dig a hole in the ground for the rear PU wheels. Anything to lower the ramp angles.