Help! Broken Grease Zerk in FEL

[BoneheadNW]

I was greasing my FEL (LA352) when the grease gun got stuck on the zerk. After some twisting I got it loose but ended up breaking the zerk off in half. After a trip to the auto parts store for more zerks and a set of easy outs, I tried to get the broken half of the zerk out but have been unsuccessful so far. The easy out just seems to be shredding the zerk from the inside- I'm sure the fact that the thing is coated with grease doesn't help.

Thus, I have two questions:

1. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the half of the zerk stuck in the threads?

2. I found a very thin spring lying on the ground and believe that it came from behind the broken zerk (see photo). Does anyone know about this? The zerk is from the fitting just behind the bucket, if that makes a difference.

Note in the picture the broken zerk is just below the spring, the new zerk is on the bottom.

Thanks,

Bonehead

P.S. Sorry for the blurred photo- I didn't want to get grease on the camera!

 

[BoneheadNW]

Now that I have washed my hands, here is a better photo.

 

[JerryG]

The spring is what holds the ball in the top of the zerk. You may have to take the shaft out to get the zerk out.

 

[BoneheadNW]

By the term "shaft", are you referring to the entire (non-orange) piece that the zerk fits into? I believe that is is held in by a lock nut/bolt assembly on the other side of the bucket cylinder. See photo.

Bonehead

 

[pvm171]

I Had the same problem on my FEL, LA723. I broke the jerk fitting off and could not get it out. Drilled a hole through the mess and drove a "drive jerk" in without problem and it now has been there a long time. I bought the "drive jerks" at Tractor Supply.

 

[KennyV]

You can drill it out, tap it to the next larger zerk, they come in sae and metric size thread, you can use whatever is the next size up.
OR do as pvm171 said put a driven zerk in.
OR if any of these fixes bother you… just replace that pin, a new one is not expensive and it comes with a zerk (you will have to use the bolt and locknut /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif. KennyV.

 

[Egon]

Pound the easy out in harder and if that still does'n't work try runing a tap through it. The taps are tapered to start so you may just be able cut thru the old zerk remains.

Also look at your grease gun. It just may have an adustable tip that is too tight and what caused the problem in the first place.

Egon

 

[JerryG]

I didn't realize that your zerk was IN the shaft. There are two different ways in which the zerk can be mounted. After seeing which one you have, I would say do as Egon said. Drive the ez out in tighter. There are also two types of ez outs. There are the square ones and then there are ones with left hand flutes. If one type doesn't work, sometimes the other kind will.

 

[texbaylea]

What ever you do to get the old zerk out pull the pin out and clean it out thoroughly to get ALL metal shavings out before you put the new zerk in. Just replacing the pin is easier.

Vernon

 

[SCB]

Bonehead,
I have had to take off my curl cylinder and replace it. The pin that has your zerk in it is holding the lower end of the curl cylinder to the bucket and is easy to remove. Send me a pm if you want me to explain the procedure a little bit for you. As said before, after getting the zerk out the pin should be removed to clean any metal debris and then greased and put back in.