jerryb1973
New member
Just how difficult is it to install and remove the mower deck?? My dealer is saying he recommends a rear finish mower, but then I would have to remove the BH. Which would be the least effort?
Mowing BX23 - Mower deck put-on/take-off questilon
- Thread starter jerryb1973
- Start date
CobraAH1G
New member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2005
- Messages
- 4
- Location
- NH
- Tractor
- Kubota M125x/M105S/M9540/M6800/B3030/RTV900WS/ToolCat
I found it very easy to install/remove my 60" MMM (as well as the BH) on the BX23.
As far as needing to remove the BH in order to attach the RFM, I always removed the BH while using the MMM (better maneuverability and less weight).
Are you planning on mowing with the BH attached?
-CobraAH1G
As far as needing to remove the BH in order to attach the RFM, I always removed the BH while using the MMM (better maneuverability and less weight).
Are you planning on mowing with the BH attached?
-CobraAH1G
Av8r3400
Platinum Member
Having just installed my 54" deck this past sunday, I found something I had never noticed before. I cleaned the coupler (hooks the driveshaft to the tractor's PTO) and it will lock very lightly in the "open" position. With this done it is very simple to slide the coupler onto the PTO and then lock it by pushing the coupler to the "closed" positon.
This has turned this job from a cursing 20 minute fight to an easy 5 minute install. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
This has turned this job from a cursing 20 minute fight to an easy 5 minute install. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
SpeckuldTrout
New member
I've put the 54" deck on/off of my BX2230 several time lately, it's really easy.
1) Raise it to top postion, lower and rotate the anti-scap wheels (they are used to roll the deck sideways from under the tractor.) 3 minutes or less.
2) Drop it to the ground and unhook the rear links. Raise the links back up. 1 minute or less.
3) Pull off the PTO shaft. Unhook the front links. 1 minute.
4) Roll the deck out to the side. 10 seconds.
Putting it on is just the reverse and just about as easy. It may need to be jockyed around a bit to get the rear links lined up with the pins. The most difficult part for me has been getting the PTO shaft collar to snap onto the shaft. The most time consuming part is moving the pins in the four anti-scalp wheel spindles.
I guess the caveat would be that you have a nice patch of concrete to do it on. Trying to do it on grass or a surface that the anti-scalp wheels don't want to roll would make it more difficult. Also this is the 54" mower, but I wouldn't think the 60" is much different.
It's hard to believe removing/replacing the backhoe could be so easy, but then, I don't have one and haven't done it.
1) Raise it to top postion, lower and rotate the anti-scap wheels (they are used to roll the deck sideways from under the tractor.) 3 minutes or less.
2) Drop it to the ground and unhook the rear links. Raise the links back up. 1 minute or less.
3) Pull off the PTO shaft. Unhook the front links. 1 minute.
4) Roll the deck out to the side. 10 seconds.
Putting it on is just the reverse and just about as easy. It may need to be jockyed around a bit to get the rear links lined up with the pins. The most difficult part for me has been getting the PTO shaft collar to snap onto the shaft. The most time consuming part is moving the pins in the four anti-scalp wheel spindles.
I guess the caveat would be that you have a nice patch of concrete to do it on. Trying to do it on grass or a surface that the anti-scalp wheels don't want to roll would make it more difficult. Also this is the 54" mower, but I wouldn't think the 60" is much different.
It's hard to believe removing/replacing the backhoe could be so easy, but then, I don't have one and haven't done it.
SpeckuldTrout
New member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I cleaned the coupler (hooks the driveshaft to the tractor's PTO) and it will lock very lightly in the "open" position. With this done it is very simple to slide the coupler onto the PTO and then lock it by pushing the coupler to the "closed" positon.
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Oooh. Good tip. I'll have to try that.
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Oooh. Good tip. I'll have to try that.
Spudgunner
Gold Member
I have the MMM so I can only speak to that. For the sake of maneuverability I always remove the hoe and FEL prior to mowing. However, I remove the hoe PRIOR to attaching the MMM and I remove the FEL AFTER attaching the MMM. This is so that I can raise the front of the tractor a bit with the FEL in order to make the MMM attachment significantly easier. (Thanks to Junkman for that hint.)
Some folks apparently attach the MMM to the '23 (and subsequently mow) while leaving the hoe and FEL attached; others (like me) have noted problems with interference between the rear upper links and hoe's footwell when the MMM is lowered to the lowest settings. Opinions seem to be all over the map on this one, so YMMV. Taking the hoe off is so easy that I'd remove it anyway.
Some folks apparently attach the MMM to the '23 (and subsequently mow) while leaving the hoe and FEL attached; others (like me) have noted problems with interference between the rear upper links and hoe's footwell when the MMM is lowered to the lowest settings. Opinions seem to be all over the map on this one, so YMMV. Taking the hoe off is so easy that I'd remove it anyway.
Spudgunner
Gold Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Having just installed my 54" deck this past sunday, I found something I had never noticed before. I cleaned the coupler (hooks the driveshaft to the tractor's PTO) and it will lock very lightly in the "open" position. With this done it is very simple to slide the coupler onto the PTO and then lock it by pushing the coupler to the "closed" positon.
This has turned this job from a cursing 20 minute fight to an easy 5 minute install. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>
Right On! The coupler doesn't need the collar retracted in order to mount to the splined PTO shaft. It DOES need to be retracted in order to LOCK the collar to the shaft. Two step operation makes things easy.
This has turned this job from a cursing 20 minute fight to an easy 5 minute install. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>
Right On! The coupler doesn't need the collar retracted in order to mount to the splined PTO shaft. It DOES need to be retracted in order to LOCK the collar to the shaft. Two step operation makes things easy.
Volfandt
Veteran Member
You can R & R the MMM without tools and it gets much easier with practice.
Since the MMM weighs in at around 220 or so lbs, it's not the easiest implement to move around but Kubota did make the anti scalp wheels to pivot which helps in rolling the MMM into position to mount/dismount.
The 60" MMM is too wide to just simply roll under the BX23 and hook up, you've got to roll it under the tractor at an a angle, then once the front mount has cleared the right front wheel (when viewed sitting in the seat) you can straighten it up and roll it the rest of the way. Once it's lined up I then hookup the driveshaft then hook it up to the rear points then sinch it up by connecting it to the front mount.
Figure your 1st time to mount or deismount the MMM will probably take 20-30 minutes. But once you've got the routine down it should take maybe 5-10 minutes or less, without tools.
Some folks use the FEL to raise the front wheels high enough so the 60" MMM can be slide straight in. I haven't tried it that way yet so I can't comment on how easy it is, perhaps some will who does it will.
Since I don't have the 54" MMM I don't know whether it'll slide straight in or not.
For me it's not that big a deal to R&R the MMM and since I do alot of close in cutting around trees and other obstacles, I prefer the MMM.
A rear mount is definitely easier to R&R bit isn't as useful for cutting around obstacles, it's better suited for wide open spaces.
Good luck
Volfandt
Edited, wow, abunch of folks posted whilst I was posting. Even tho I'm rehashing whats already been said, I'll just leave it be. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Since the MMM weighs in at around 220 or so lbs, it's not the easiest implement to move around but Kubota did make the anti scalp wheels to pivot which helps in rolling the MMM into position to mount/dismount.
The 60" MMM is too wide to just simply roll under the BX23 and hook up, you've got to roll it under the tractor at an a angle, then once the front mount has cleared the right front wheel (when viewed sitting in the seat) you can straighten it up and roll it the rest of the way. Once it's lined up I then hookup the driveshaft then hook it up to the rear points then sinch it up by connecting it to the front mount.
Figure your 1st time to mount or deismount the MMM will probably take 20-30 minutes. But once you've got the routine down it should take maybe 5-10 minutes or less, without tools.
Some folks use the FEL to raise the front wheels high enough so the 60" MMM can be slide straight in. I haven't tried it that way yet so I can't comment on how easy it is, perhaps some will who does it will.
Since I don't have the 54" MMM I don't know whether it'll slide straight in or not.
For me it's not that big a deal to R&R the MMM and since I do alot of close in cutting around trees and other obstacles, I prefer the MMM.
A rear mount is definitely easier to R&R bit isn't as useful for cutting around obstacles, it's better suited for wide open spaces.
Good luck
Volfandt
Edited, wow, abunch of folks posted whilst I was posting. Even tho I'm rehashing whats already been said, I'll just leave it be. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Don_Sullivan
Member
(I cleaned the coupler (hooks the driveshaft to the tractor's PTO) and it will lock very lightly in the "open" position)
I had more than the usual trouble getting the MMM shaft coupler on the BX1500 the other day. It had collected a fair amount of dirt inside the coupler mechanism. WD40 seemed to be helping but I was hesitant about giving it a real bath in solvent. Called my dealer, one of whose mechanics said not a problem - nothing inside to hurt. So I sozzled the coupler in several baths of naphtha, blowing it out with compressed air in between. Got out a lot of crud. A little 15W40 made it work real smooth and followed that with a little grease on the splines and spring-loaded balls. Don't forget to regrease the UJ fitting.
BTW a recent forum mentioned a very useful trick for connecting the coupler. Move the PTO Select lever fully forward to the Rear-PTO position. This disconnects the Mid-PTO shaft so you can turn it by hand to line up the splines.
I supplement that with a 9" 2x4 mouted on a square 1/2" plywood base to block up the UJ shaft while you are trying to get the coupler to mate.
Don Sullivan
I had more than the usual trouble getting the MMM shaft coupler on the BX1500 the other day. It had collected a fair amount of dirt inside the coupler mechanism. WD40 seemed to be helping but I was hesitant about giving it a real bath in solvent. Called my dealer, one of whose mechanics said not a problem - nothing inside to hurt. So I sozzled the coupler in several baths of naphtha, blowing it out with compressed air in between. Got out a lot of crud. A little 15W40 made it work real smooth and followed that with a little grease on the splines and spring-loaded balls. Don't forget to regrease the UJ fitting.
BTW a recent forum mentioned a very useful trick for connecting the coupler. Move the PTO Select lever fully forward to the Rear-PTO position. This disconnects the Mid-PTO shaft so you can turn it by hand to line up the splines.
I supplement that with a 9" 2x4 mouted on a square 1/2" plywood base to block up the UJ shaft while you are trying to get the coupler to mate.
Don Sullivan
rdsaustintx
Veteran Member
You need to take the BH off with either type of mower.
The rear MMM links are attached to the 3-point, the upper links of which will NOT go all the way down with the BH installed (they hit the tread plate).
All of the BX attachments are easy to R&R. Just go slow and careful the first couple of times.
MMM mounting takes me 10 minutes, including time to adjust and grease whatever I find. You can remove both BH and FEL in similar time.
Russell in Texas
The rear MMM links are attached to the 3-point, the upper links of which will NOT go all the way down with the BH installed (they hit the tread plate).
All of the BX attachments are easy to R&R. Just go slow and careful the first couple of times.
MMM mounting takes me 10 minutes, including time to adjust and grease whatever I find. You can remove both BH and FEL in similar time.
Russell in Texas