B3030 Alternator Kit? ROPS brackets? Lights?

[BandDcabinet]

Would appreciate hearing from anyone with experience adding work lights to a B3030. How much current can you draw from the standard dynamo? Has anyone upgraded to the alternator? Is there an alternator kit for the B3030? I've read about the BX alternator kit but didn't find anything regarding a B3030 kit when searching this forum. I'm thinking about adding two work lights forward and one or two to the back on the ROPS. I've looked around for brackets.... any suggestions? The lights seem to vary in price from the $15 range to $75. What do you get for the extra $60 bucks? Are they worth it? I've looked around on the internet but it's always nice to hear honest opinions from those that have been down the road before.

Thanks for all the information shared by all in this forum.. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[MadReferee]

Kubota offers an 40 amp alternator upgrade from the standard 14.5 amp dynamo for all their B series tractors, including the B2630 and B3030. The option number for the 7510/7610/2410 is B7311. For the B2710/2910/7800 it is B7312. I am not sure on the exact option number for the newer models but I would think it would be the same as the B7312. Check with your dealer.

BTW, the B3030 parts manual gives a breakdown of all the parts supplied in the kit and pictures on how everything goes together. It just doesn't give the option number.

 

[LBrown59]

Here are some thoughts I've been kicking around concerning lights on rops.
1. Use two lights rather than 4 lights. Mount them on a light bar that will swivel the lights up and down. I install the lights on the bar in a manner that will permit the lights to be rotated 360 degrees. The 360 degrees allows you to have light to the rear and front or both to the front or both to the rear.
Use magnets to mount the brackets for the light bar to the top rear edge of the rops instead of on top of the rops or under the top of the rops. Next bolt the ends of the light bar to the brackets with one bolt through each bracket into the bar.
Tighten the bolts just enough to hold the bar in place but loose enough to move it by hand. The swiveling light bar allows:
(A) Allows adjustment of the distance the lights shine out from the tractor.
(B) Gives more clearance above the lights and more head room under them.
(C) Lessens the chance of catching the lights on something overhead.
(D) Allows the lights to flip down if hit rather than breaking them.
(E) You can just flip the lights down to work under low hanging branches instead of having to remove them from the rops. However you still have the option of removing the bar and lights and unplugging the trailer connector.
*Advantages of the 360 degree rotation *
(A) Permits two lights instead of requiring 4 lights, thus reducing current flow.
(B) Lights can be turned both to front or both to rear. Or they can be turned one to front and one to rear. They can also be used for side lighting. Swiveling lights can provide illumination 360 degrees around the tractor.

Adjustment from one position to another is instant by hand. No wrenches or tools required.
A low profile light preferred over high profile lights.

I've been using this system of combining a rotating light bar with swivel mounted lights to install fog and driving lights on my pickups successfully for years.

More thoughts on lights.
Use a dual direction light with a clear lens on both sides that will cast light to the front and rear at the same time.

Thinking about experimenting with a hanging swing light magnetically attached to the cross member of the FEL to illuminate the bucket shadow when using the head lights.

L.B.

 

[cart99]

BandD:

Check towards the bottom of page 2 on this thread

Hope this helps!

 

[LBrown59]

[No message]

 

[MadReferee]

The real bottom line is that if your aux power sources (lights, accessories, etc.) plus the normal power requirements of the running tractor exceeds 168-175 watts when running together then you have exceeded the capacity of your stock dynamo. If that is the case then you must upgrade to the 40 amp alternator or your battery will be discharging.

For example, running three 55 watt work lights is the max that the system can support without additional charging power and even that is on the hairy edge of the maximum power draw.

If you will be doing night work with more than 3 lights on at any given time, or have a cab with a heater/defroster then you need the alternator upgrade. If you like to work in the dark then I guess you don't need the upgrade. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[DoctorDawg]

Hmm...just posted a response, but it disappeared. Apologies in advance if I post this twice by accident....

I'm quite happy with my light job on my B2630 (pretty much same as your B3030):



The ROPS clamps are from Messicks, went on easily and well. The lights are super-bright LEDs from Truck-Lite, purchased online from Ryder Fleet Products. They draw only 1.3 A each, so wired right in without overloading the circuit or my alternator. Not quite as bright as big-ole incandescent or halogen floods, but plenty bright enough. Pricey, though; $98 ea. OK by me; I'd do it again if I had to. I wired the lights into two weatherproof rocker switches from a marine supply store.

 

[Sully2]

The ROPS clamps are from Messicks, went on easily and well.

Got a part number for those clamps from Messicks?

 

[Taiser]

Here's my setup (B7800). These are automotive driving lights (didn't like the floodlights). I'm running it off of the original dynamo, no problems yet but I'm running close to the max the thing can put out. These things are amazingly bright!!! I will be upgrading to the alternator soon, just because I like the extra ooommph it puts out, especially at lower rpm's.

 

[DoctorDawg]

Got a part number for those clamps from Messicks?

See Tractor Work Lights