B7610 Hyd top link.

[Ronster]

I searched the archives and couldn't find anyone using a hydraulic top link cylinder from Northern Tool. A 2500 psi 2" bore, 12" stroke, 22" Closed Pin distance for $62.00. Would something like this work for a top link?

 

[MadReferee]

Depending on the 3pt geometry of your particular tractor it probably would work. The configuration of the connecting ends would have to match your 3pt.

However, it would most likely leak down very quickly which would make you extremely disappointed in your choice of cylinders. Pay the extra money and get a cylinder designed for a top link application that has a double piloted check valve which will prevent leak down. CCM sells them (assuming their shipment has arrived). You can find many users here on TBN who have purchased from CCM and are extremely happy with their decision.

 

[ronjhall]

My top link cylinder is a 2" bore X 8" stroke. Closed length is 18". Original cylinder was 20" . From a suggestion by Bird I cut 2" off tractor end.
12" stroke may be to long. You may want cylinder to have a closed length as close to 18" as possible on the B7610.

 

[Code54]

Sorry to ask this, but I am new to the tractor thing and just bought a 7610 and was wondering why you want to add the Hydro Cyl. Is there an adv. (if so I may want to do the same thing). Just wondering what it does and the benifits of adding one? Sorry for the dumb question but is sounds interesting. Thanks

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sorry to ask this, but I am new to the tractor thing and just bought a 7610 and was wondering why you want to add the Hydro Cyl. Is there an adv. (if so I may want to do the same thing). Just wondering what it does and the benifits of adding one? Sorry for the dumb question but is sounds interesting. )</font>

Assuming you have rear aux hydraulics on your tractor, the HTL will allow you to have infinite settings on the "angle of attack" of your implement. Basically it makes adjusting the top link length really easy.

The pros and cons or having a HTL have been discussed many, many times here on TBN. Do a search for "hydrauilc top link" and have fun reading.

 

[Ronster]

MadRef.., thanks for the CCM info. That's probably what I'll go for. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[wushaw]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sorry to ask this, but I am new to the tractor thing and just bought a 7610 and was wondering why you want to add the Hydro Cyl. Is there an adv. (if so I may want to do the same thing). Just wondering what it does and the benifits of adding one? Sorry for the dumb question but is sounds interesting. Thanks )</font>

Having TnT makes BB work a thing of beauty.
The hyd top link changes the angle of attack of the BB for more or less cutting with a flick of the spool valve lever.
A hyd tilt link angles the BB for crowning roads or other dirt work applications.
Well worth the investment /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[DanR67]

Ronster -

I bought a 3" x 8" cylinder - I wanted a bit of "overkill": keep in mind that for "holding" the load you use the "shaft side" of the piston (smaller working area) - but side the 3PH capacity of the B7610 isn't that enormous - so a 2" cylinder may do the trick. Having said all that - I experience no "bleed down" on my HTL cylinder - only a slow drop in the entire 3PH @ 3" every 15 minutes.

I agree with the other folks - a 12" stroke is too much for a HTL!

I use mine on a 3PH / forks bracket I fabricated - here's a link to my website 3PH - Hydraulic Top Link - that also shows a small "adapter" I had to make in order to connect the cylinder to where the top link ties in: the tie rod cylinder simply wouldn't fit as is.

Hope that helps!

Cheers,

Dan

 

[Code54]

Nice website and photos - great info and the pictures help a great deal! Now i just need to learn how to run the rear hyrdo's!
Thanks