COULDNT SHUT IT DOWN!!!!!!!!!

[escavader]

I had my first problem with my bx-23 today.I took off my chipper,cleaned up the tractor a bit,backed up to the hoe,and turned the key.....nothing,the gauges shut off but the engin kept running.I coulnt find any loose connections no where,after a half hour i was beggining to think it would run out of diesal,before i would ever get it to shut down.The last thing i did was pull some fuses ,and you know the one to the aux lighting was blown.I unplugged them lights under the seat and put a new fuse in and then the key switch worked.Kubota must have the injection cellinoid on the same circuit.
NOW THE BAFFLER.Plugged my lights back in all was fine,it never even blew my inline fuse i put in which is also 20 amp.I didnt have the lights on all day when the problem started i I have had them lights on a couple months..alls been fineI did hook up a 12 volt outlet this weekend,but its direct to the battery.WHATS GOING ON? Ran the tractor 4 more hours,starting and stopping,no problems...fuses dont blow for no reason.
ALAN

 

[chilibit]

I think that usually you shut off fuel to stop a diesel. So could there be a sticky solenoid?

 

[escavader]

I had a blown fuse,that cellenoid must be on that aux lighting circuit.changed the fuse alls fine dont understand what blew the fuse,wasnt even using the lights
ALAN

 

[tarbaby]

here are a few things to look at, check wiring harness between main switch and stop solenoid. the stop solenoid may be defective, the wire going to it is hot when key is on. last is the timer relay wnder dash may also be defective. hope this helps.

 

[Volfandt]

According to the WSM, the fuel stop solenoid, the 12v Aux plug under the seat and the safety switches are all in that 20amp circuit. Hard to say what could have popped the fuse. 1st thing I'd do is change out that inline fuse you put in to a smaller amperage thats less than the BX's 20 amp fuse. You might go to either a 10 or 15 amp & see what happens.

Volfandt

 

[wushaw]

If you used a hose to clean the tractor up a bit then water may have gone somewhere it shouldn't have.

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Escavader:

Fuses sure don't blow for no reason - in fact, there is an explanation for every single thing - the fun is trying to figure out what it is. Of course, some things we will probably never know.

Based on what you've said, my best guess would be an intermittent short between the auxiliary light connector and your light switch. Your lights don't have to be on to blow either your inline fuse or your fuse-box fuse if there's a short between those points. If there's a short here, excessive current will be going through both fuses, and one of them has to blow before the other. It could have just happened to be your fuse-box fuse.

I'd advise you to leave the inline fuse at 20 amps rather than lowering its amperage to say 15 and then having it blow for the simple reason that maybe it has between 15 and 20 amps running through it. Unlikely, but why open the door. As long as the wiring you installed can handle 20 amps, just leave it.

You said you hooked up the lights 2 months ago, maybe a wire has been rubbing on a sharp corner somewhere. Look for the simple stuff first, that's one of my mottos. Based on Kubota reliablity and the relatively low hours on your machine, I'd bet it's not the fuel solenoid.

If your lights had been on at the time, or even for a very short time, I might have speculated that a sticking solenoid might have been putting a constant load on a circuit that was designed to take a constant load from your lights but only an intermittent load from your solenoid. If the fuses are slow-acting, this might be a plausible explanation, but again, only if your lights had been on - or at least for a long enough time to blow a slow-acting fuse.

Anyway, I'd stick with the simple stuff. Please let me know if you find any shorts in your new wiring, as I'm always eager to know whether or not I'm completely full of cr*p - sometimes it's hard to tell /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Have BX-2230 later series and when you turn the key off it turns on a timed relay that activates the fuel shutoff solenoid. It is located on top of injection pump and you can move the plunger by hand to turn the tractor off also.

David

 

[Volfandt]

There are two reasons why I think it's advisable to change out the inline fuse he added to his light circuit to a smaller size.

1) To isolate his problem. He's wired in an additional load to his existing 20 amp circuit that also controls his fuel shutoff. If this inline fuse is a slo-blow 20 amp fuse it will never blow before the surge bypasses it and blows the tractors 20 amp fuse. I would much rather loose my added-on lights then not being able to shut my engine down.

2) To keep the power surges from damaging the other electrics that are in that same circuit. Fuses are always sized larger than the max load one expects a circuit to draw as many electrical devices will cause a temp surge when they are initially energized. A seperate smaller fuse on the add-on will keep these additional surges out of the tractors 20amp circuit.

If he changes out to a smaller in-line fuse and this continually blows then #1 his tractor's 20 amp curcuit will still be isolated and functional plus he now knows what circuit he then needs to troubleshoot and repair.

Gotta get
Volfandt

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Volfandt - There's a heck of a lot to what you just said. I wasn't thinking too clearly on that part of the equation. You are absolutely correct, best to make the inline fuse an amperage that will just handle the load of the lights, and no more. That way, as you said, a problem in the light circuit will blow the light fuse and not the fuse-box fuse.

My money's still on an intermittent short in the lighting circuit, and again, as you said, continued popping of the smaller aux lighting inline fuse would certainly help to locate the problem.

Sorry I didn't grasp the merits of your suggestion.

John D.