Loader Hydraulic Connections

[M. Sullivan]

Hoping the resident experts can get me out of a small jam, and hoping this is an easy one. Have the B2710 and 402 FEL. One of the quick connects (red, rollback) at the control block won't connect! Tried for 30 min so far, before and after letting it cool. Actually all four initally wouldn't connect, 3 went right on after letting it sit an hour (had just cut 7A). This one was also v. tough to get off at the start. Note: Have had it on and off a 6-8 times over its 21 total hours.

Worst case, appears these might be standard stock items at all tractor shops (has a 7200 part number designation on it)?? Or Kubota dealer?? Figured I might just buy a new one, put it on and save the warranty hassle. Right now it's sitting in the middle of my driveway messing everything up--no rollback prohibits FEL install on the tractor.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Bird]

M. Sullivan, I've never had that problem, but before I disconnect the hoses on my loader, I shut the engine off and move the joystick in all four directions to release any pressure in the lines. Now I don't know whether that is your problem or not, but that's what it sounds like to me; that you have so much pressure in that line that it won't go on. You may be able to move the bucket manually to relief some pressure, or as a last resort, loosen a hydraulic line fitting to relief the pressure, but be very careful if you do not to let a strong stream of hydraulic oil hit you. If you look inside the quick coupler, there is a "pin" in the center. If you have something, such as an appropriately sized drift pin that you can stand on the ground (a board under it perhaps) and press the coupler pin down on it hard enough to release the pressure, I think that will fix the problem; just don't let the suddenly released pressure hit you.

Bird

 

[M. Sullivan]

Bird, as always thanks for the suggestion--will try that and see if it helps/works. Do have more info. (after another couple 30 minutes stints of fumbling with it). Thinking it is the female side of the red connector: It will not go any of the 4 posts, whereas the other 3 connectors will connect to the 'red post'.

Is this a straight-forward replacement--unthread the coupler from the line and replace with a new one? Any issues with fluid, pressure or air in the line afterwards??

Thanks again.

 

[Bird]

Yeah, I didn't make that very clear, but the pin up inside the center of the female coupler is the one I was talking about. If you have a big drift pin, metal rod, etc. that will fit in there, then press down hard with the other end firmly on pavement, a board on the ground, or something similar, you should let a little bit of fluid out; just enough to relief the pressure. And you won't lose enough fluid to amount to anything. That's where I'd start. Of course, you know there may be a tremendous amount of pressure in that hose and you might not be able to push hard enough against it (although I've seen a neighbor do it when his wouldn't couple, but he may not have trapped as much pressure as you have apparently). And then, if that doesn't work, as a last resort get the wrenches and loosen the line to relieve the pressure. You should not have to replace anything, just loosen it enough to let the pressure off, then tighten it back. In fack, I'd probably go to the other end of that hose (at the cylinder).

Now of course, all this is assuming the problem is pressure in that line because that's not an unusual problem. There is the possibility that you have a damaged or defective quick coupler that will have to be replaced, which is simply a matter, as you said, of unthreading the old one and screwing the new one on. And I wouldn't worry about any air in the line; if any gets in there, it'll work its way out.

Bird

 

[MChalkley]

M. Sullivan - It does sound like you've narrowed it down to the connector. They're quite easy to replace, if it's necessary. Just be very careful, as Bird says, that you loosen it slowly. If there's any way for the bucket to move when you loosen it, it will. And the pressure may be very high. Wrap a heavy rag around the threads and loosen it very slowly, especially after you start to see a little fluid around the threads.

Mark

 

[M. Sullivan]

Bird got it right the first time! Thought I had seen the pintle move initially--not the case. Simply released the pressure (leather gloves, gutter nail and hammer) and on it went. Must have forgot to relieve pressure before unhooking lines. Lesson learned.

Thanks again, Bird.

 

[TomG]

I think I've mentioned this as a follow-on to another of Bird's posts. Sometimes, I can't get one of the curl hoses to seat despite setting the bucket down and repeatedly working all valve levers. Hope my note is as helpful as his suggestion.

What I found is that starting the connector, holding it in with hand pressure, and then pulling the valve open will seat the connector. Happened again the other day. Near as I can figure, there can be enough oil remaining in the female connector to prevent seating or opening of the male connector. My discovered trick has saved me from wrestling the hoses 30 minutes or more a number of times.

 

[roysallis]

The manual that came with my JD said to always move the joystick in all 4 directions after shutting the engine off, and also be sure to lower the 3pth. One reason is for safety and the other to relieve pressure in the system.