Chaining Down Your Grand L..

   / Chaining Down Your Grand L.. #1  

MODiesel

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2001
Messages
211
Location
Missouri, USA
Tractor
Kubota L5030HSTC
OK. So, I've got this great new orange-colored tractor, and I've had to trailer it between two of our properties a few times. However, I've been stumped as to figuring out good chain down points.

What I've been doing, so far, is to run a chain through the round cross support in the LA853 loader, and another around the lower 3-point arms at the rear. The problem, though, is that the chain is marring the edges of the loader, and I'm not even sure where I could tie down on the front if I don't have the loader attached.

What have you guys figured out? On my TC40D, NH at least gave you one loop on the underside of the chassis towards the middle of the tractor. However, on the L5030, the bottom is much cleaner, and even the front of the frame is occupied with the brush guard. So, I'm looking for suggestions from those of you who have already dealt with this one! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Regards,
Jay
 
   / Chaining Down Your Grand L.. #2  
("What I've been doing, so far, is to run a chain through the round cross support in the LA853 loader, and another around the lower 3-point arms at the rear.")

In NC that's a big ticket if you are stopped.

I would not rely on a chain around the FEL support and 3-pt arms to keep the tractor on the trailer if you had to make a sudden stop.

The law may be different in other states but here you have to have all four corners of the tractor chained plus any 3-pt implement chained as well as the FEL.

I use 4 chains and 4 binders, one around each axle, I will use a chain or heavy strap on the implement and one across the FEL. So I actually have a total of 6 tie-downs holding the tractor on the trailer.

This may seem like over kill but you don't want the tractor to go flying off the trailer and hitting a on coming car if you were to stop suddenly, hit someone or get hit.

A friend of mine was hauling his dozer on a flat bed trailer and did not have it secured properly ( not enough chains ) he rounded a sharpe curve to fast on a road he was not use to driving. The dozer slid off the trailer and landed on top of the car coming the other way. Needless to say it killed the driver and he was charged with manslaughter. Those chargers were later droped and he was charged with failure to secure a load and something else.

There have been several threads on this subject so try a search. I am sure someone will post some links to threads, I am just not sure how to do it.
 
   / Chaining Down Your Grand L..
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I'm aware of the laws & safety issues, but my travels are on county backroads and gravel roads, so I'm not moving very fast. The chains are all Grade 8, and heavy enough that I've had two track loaders pulling on them. It's more a matter of finding "tie down points" on the Grand L chassis.

If you're tying down, via the axles, how are you looping the chains around the wheels and such? Got any pics you can post?

Regards,
Jay
 
   / Chaining Down Your Grand L.. #4  
Hiya Jay -

Congrats on your new machine, you made a heck of a choice; but then again, I'm a bit partial.

I trailer my 5030 constantly, and must admit to still being in the dark ages when it comes to PROPERLY securing it to my trailer. I've been using four 2" ratcheting straps that I got through AW Direct , but I'm just about to make a move to a different setup. I plan on doing it the 1st ... the first chance I get.

Current "system" - attach the two front straps to the front axle by passing the "tail" throught the "eye" of each one, then ratchet each one snug, with the ratchet attached to one of six "d"-rings welded to trailer. Do same to rear of tractor, using the ROPS.

Proposed system - use "J" hooks, double clevis links (or clevis-type J-hooks), grade 70 chain, 2 "slip hooks with latch" and 2 ratcheting load binders, secured to 4 "d" rings on trailer. I'd use the two ratcheting load binders on the front, so that in the event of a sudden stop (aka head-on collision) they wouldn't take the force of the crash, although they're plenty strong at 6,600 WLL. Rubber-coat the J-hooks, or slip protective covers over them, and I think you'd have a pretty good system. Since you'll be positioning the tractor in the same place every single time, once you have the rear hooks and chains all set up, it's just a simple matter of ratcheting the fronts snug, and you're done. For extra peace of mind, maybe add one more chain (grade 100 or more?) to an anchor shackle placed on the drawbar, and attach the other end to a part of the trailer that will "give", but not "let go", during a crash.

Ratings (WLL - Working Load Limit) in lbs.:

  • Grade 70 chain, 3/8": 6,600
    Grade 70 double clevis link, 3/8": 6,600
    Grade 70 J-hooks: 4,700 (oh well)
    Grade 70 slip hook w/latch, 3/8": 6,600
    Grade 100 chain, 1/2": 15,000

    Warning: When using a system like this, be prepared for police officers who might stop you just to shake your hand. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    John

    ********

    Oops, it's always something. HunterRidge makes an excellent point about securing the loader/bucket as well. Maybe one more chain/ratchet setup attached to the same two front d-rings that you use to secure the tractor.

    As for the exact tractor attachment points - the ROPS has always worked for me for the rear, but some might disagree. I'll re-evaluate the rear axle. For the front: I've been meaning to replace the flimsy front tie rod covers with something much more substantial. Maybe the beefed-up cover will incorporate a tie-down attachment point.
 
   / Chaining Down Your Grand L.. #5  
Sorry MODiesel wasn't trying to imply you did not know laws and safety issues. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I don't have any pictures. I just loop the chain around the axle behind the tire and hook both ends under the frame of the trailer then use the binder. I have on short trips used the bumper/grill guard for the front tie-down.

There are several people that have 5030's on this site that may have some pictures. I think Dargo had posted pictures of his 5030 on his trailer and CT Tree Guy has a 5030. You could PM them and see if they can post some pictures.

Hope this helps.
 
   / Chaining Down Your Grand L.. #6  
MODiesel, I run a L3710, my front chain loops around a large 1/2" by 3" (aprox) crossmember that runs left to right under the front of the tractor just back from the grill guard. The second chain runs thru openings in the BH subframe. # 3 goes around the loader bucket #4 around the BH bucket. The BH is turned to the side because my trailer is only a 16' and I don't like the overhang. I'm not sure if i'm 100% legal as per DOT but this system works for me and I feel secure with it, My property is about 100 miles from home and I travel well patrolled highways. I have friends in business who have told me the DOT is tough on commercial rigs but they've never heard of a private vehicle being fined if tiedown ( chains & binders)was reasonable.
 
   / Chaining Down Your Grand L.. #7  
Here is how I chain down the front end of my L4330. I bolted some hooks onto the grill guard to prevent damaging the paint. (see picture)
 

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   / Chaining Down Your Grand L.. #8  
I also welded D-rings every 4 feet along each side of my trailer. (see picture)
 

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   / Chaining Down Your Grand L.. #9  
MODiesel - I asked the same question a year ago, received some excellent advice, and have moved a L3130 on numerous occasions using the chained methods described. I did attach the D Rings to the frame of the tractor as descibed in the post. I am now sure how to link, so search on "Kubota 3130 Tie Downs". Some great photos were attached.

The search did not work, try this link:
Link
 
   / Chaining Down Your Grand L.. #10  
I have only had my L3430 on my trailer once so far. I have US made Grade 70 chains and US made ratchet binders from AW Direct.

I bolted D-Rings to the front of the tractor as I seen in a post on TBN 5/05. Also ran a third chain through the loader tube for a total of three in the front.

In the rear I run two chains to the right and left lower ROPS. Also put a third chain around the backhoe.

If I haul just the tractor I will use four chains, one in each corner. Add a chain for the FEL and a chain for rear implement.

See following photos.

ksmmoto
 
 
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