Tires Plowing with turf tires

   / Plowing with turf tires #1  

CraigM

Silver Member
Joined
May 3, 2000
Messages
116
Location
Golden, IL
Tractor
B2150HSD, JD3020
For anyone debating tire types, maybe this will help. My B2150 is primarily a mowing machine, and came with turf tires. I also wanted to be able to pull a plow and disc through the garden, and to be able to renovate the rattier patches in our pasture. The folks at the local Kubota dealer told me that I would be able to work the garden in 4WD with turfs, but had doubts about sod bustin' in the pasture.

My experience shows that it is possible to pull a 2 bottom plow through a heavily weed overgrown garden if you work within the tractor's limitations. This was the first time I ever plowed anything, so I was learning as I went. The plow is an old Dearborn 3 point mounted unit with either 12 or 14 inch bottoms. No one has given me a definitive answer on exactly what to measure to detrmine this, so if anyone knows, please pass it along. I can't just drop the plow and drive off like the farmer down the road with his 100 HP JD, but by being careful not to take too big a bite, and using the diff lock, I could pull the plow through the garden. There was a fair amount of wheel slip, enough to cause me to price chains, but not enough to make me buy them, and certainly no where enough to justify the price of changing to bar turfs. I got deep enough to turn the weeds over. I had hoped to give them a few weeks to die and then disc, but we had a rainy spell that melted the soil back into a pretty solid surface and the disc wouldn't bite, so I plowed again. This time, with no real sod to contend with, I could let the plow go down to full depth and still keep it moving. When it stuck, a little tug on the lift lever would pull up a huge chunk of soil and get things moving again. This time, I couldn't resist the fun of turning over a 20 foot wide strip of established sod and dandelions (mostly dandelions) next to the garden. This time, I had a better idea of how to control things, and managed to get the depth set up so that both bottoms were turning soil about 4 inches deep and flipping the dandeions over quite nicely. I went over it again a week later with the plow set deeper and it pulled pretty well. All the plowing was done with the diff lock on. It quickly became obvious that engaging the lock at the begining of each pass was the way to go. I made minor course corrections with the lock engaged on the reasoning that the limited traction in the dirt would keep me from damaging anything. So far, that logic has worked, but do this at your own risk.

The disc is a 20 blade JD model KBA, about 6.5 feeet wide (One foot wider than manual recommendations). Had no trouble pulling it through plowed ground even at the most agressive gang angle. You could hear the engine load up, but the tractor rarely broke traction after the first pass. Even the first pass was not a problem if I used the diff lock.

The only ballast on the machine is one of those suitcases on the front. Naturally I removed the belly mower. It is simple to tie up the lifting linkages so that they don't drop into the dirt when the plow is lowered. All of this work was done in second gear at about 2000 rpm. The soil is heavy clay loam and was springtime soft. I don't know how it will work in late summer when it has dried out and gotten hard.

So, anyone out there who needs their tractor for mowing, but still wants to play farmer every now and then, it can be done with turf tires.

Craig
Hershey, PA
 
   / Plowing with turf tires #2  
Measure between the plow beams for size. Center of first bottom beam to center of second bottom beam. The beam is the heavy curved steel that the moldboard is attached to.
 
   / Plowing with turf tires #3  
Craig,
I also use truf tires with chains year round,in the woods also around the tree farm plowing snow and other projects but not mowing.

I did have agricultural tires but with the front end loader and the slope of the land I switch for I felt safer....I guess each there own. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Interlock,I only use this device when need be kinda like my saving grace, /w3tcompact/icons/smile.giffor the manual says not to engage when turning.

I know what you mean,just little wider or couple more passes. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Have a great weekend stay safe.

Thomas..NH
 
   / Plowing with turf tires #4  
Very interesting experience, CraigM! Thanks for all the detail. I'm sure this will be very helpful to others.

You could probably do considerably better, even, if you added some wheel weights. A lot of that traction you experienced when you lifted the three point hitch would be there all the time.

Mark
 
   / Plowing with turf tires
  • Thread Starter
#5  
TomW, thanks for the input. Yours is the first explanation that makes sense. I checked it over the weekend, my plow is 14 inch.


Thomas: Yes the interlock is a saving grace, but let me clarify. I learned that the best plan was to engage it at the beginning of each plow pass, while going straight and before I dropped the plow. The minor course corrections I mentioned were done with the lock engaged. This is contrary to the manual, but I explained my rationale. I have gotten mixed opinions on the value of chains for operating in the dirt. Sounds like you found them to be useful. Can you give me some detail? Are they a lot better than plain turf tires? Were they as good as bar turfs? As good as Ag tires?


Mark: It was indeed an interesting experience. I can only imagine what it must be like to pull the big implements behind 150 HP of 'real' tractor. No wonder farmers keep scraping along year after year.

Since you are the undisputed King of Ballast here, I'd like to ask your opinion. What would give me the most bang for my buck, wheel and other ballast, or chains? I have seen the selection of chains at tirechains.com, and at Labonville.com. The studded ones at Labonville are just incredible, but it would be cheaper to get bar turfs with their associated new wheels. The fancier ones at tierchains.com looked interesting, and were a lot less expensive. My gut feel is that the simple ladder type chains would not do much.

Thanks to all

Craig
Hershey, PA
 
   / Plowing with turf tires #6  
I just can't imagine taking chains on and off a tractor very often plus the damage they will do to your wiring under the fender the first time they come loose. They will also damage your tires from long term use. R1 tires should have as much traction as chains and can benefit from wheel weights or ballast. The studded chains should not be any better in dirt than the cheap ones (better on ice, though). I suspect that if you had R4 tires on your tractor, you would just use them for both applications and not change them for mowing.

If you have a way to lift two tires at a time, you can change a set of tires in about 10 minutes or put chains on in about the same time.
 
   / Plowing with turf tires #7  
CraigM - I don't know about deserving the 'King of Ballast' title, unless it's because I probably have the heaviest L4310HST in existence. If that qualifies me, then so be it. I can tell you one thing for sure: I don't know much about chains, so I won't say much. I'll leave that for others. I would love to have a set of those studded-ring chains for my rear tires, just to see how much better they'd be in certain conditions, but it would be an awfully expensive experiment. And since I rarely have trouble with traction, a pretty unnecessary one.

As for ballast, my experience indicates that it's hard to have too much with R4 tires. They're so much wider than R1's that it's spread out and keeps them from digging in any more. All other considerations aside, I think enough wheel weights to equal 75% fill on R4's for your tractor would be the best choice from a traction standpoint. That way, you can remove it (relatively) easily when you don't want it. But that's a pretty expensive approach.

The most impressive traction gains after the amount of ballast mentioned above, I've found, come from airing the tires down to the minimum recommended for the load you're running, radial tires, and Michelin XM27 radials, in particular (in reverse order of most improvement).

If you do go with radials, the tire manufacturers say that the best traction is obtained with wheel weights instead of liquid ballast, because it doesn't distort the footprint the way liquid ballast will. Bias ply tires have much less flexible sidewalls (which is why they never have nearly as good traction as radials), so it's not as much of an issue with them, but still relevant.

I know what I covered a lot of ground there, pardon the pun, and perhaps didn't exactly address your questions. For what it's worth, other things being equal, turf tires will have as much traction as any other tire on pavement and hard packed surfaces. On anything else, the turfs will have much less traction, again, all other things (such as ballast, pressure, bias vs. radial) being equal.

I recently talked a friend and neighbor of mine into replacing his L2250's R1 tires with Firestone R4 radials and he says he has a much better ride, and incredibly better traction. He's tickled to death with them. (He went with them instead of the Michelins, because he was able to get them used.)

I hope this helps.

Mark
 
   / Plowing with turf tires
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Wen and Mark:

Sounds like the consensus is R4's. I was afraid that would be the answer (the best choice is usually expensive). I remember a post that described R4's on a similar tractor as pulling better than the old Ford 8N. Since my plow is of that vintage, that pretty much clinches it. I have heard that changing chains is a pain in the neck, so I appreciate Wen's time estimate. The jack is no problem, and for the few times in a year when I would need to do it, it doesn't sound like a big deal. Hadn't considered the under fender damage potential. The air pressure trick is easy to try and priced right. I will try it.

For now, the fact that I could accomplish the task of plowing at all is enough for me. If I find myself floundering in the dirt badly enough and often enough, I will do something about it. If that time comes, I will be a bit better informed thanks to all of you guys.

Happy tractoring

Craig
Hershey, PA
 
   / Plowing with turf tires #9  
Sorry to bring up an old topic, but can anyone tell me how wide of path a 2 bottom plow turns versus a 1 bottom?

And, is it insane to think I could use a 2 bottom plow w/a L3000 w/turf tires.

Thanks/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.

Paul
 
   / Plowing with turf tires #10  
Paul,

Take a look at the first post in this thread-by CraigM. He says his B2150 does OK with a 2 bottom (14") plow. If your L3000 is the same size or larger, then it should work well.

Peter
 
 
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