Rear 5ft snowblower questions about using

[Fjord]

I just picked up a used 3pt 5ft snowblower to put on my B7800 and thought I might as well take this opportunity while I'm waiting for it to snow to get some information on using it.
i)do you let it right down so the weight of it is on the ground, or do you keep it up off the ground a bit and if so how much? Everywhere I have to use it is dirt or gravel.I noticed on some snowblowers there appears to be a little adjustable shoe for setting the height. Mine doesn't nor does it appear that it ever did have any.
ii)is getting bits of gravel jammed in the fan a problematic occurence?
iii)is it necessary to run the pto at 540? I think my tractor is rated at 2600 rpm for 540 but so far I've never had to run it above 2000 for anything. The snowblower fan is 20" diameter and has 4 blades on it.
iv)is the adjustment of the top link very critical?
Thanks in advance for your help

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Stones and snowblower= broken sheer pins, better get a supply to keep on hand. Also take the time to identify the location and mark the location and part orientation to make the replacement easier.

The top link will keep the front edge off the ground and reduce the amount of stones. Better to keep it off the ground an inch and let the ground freeze and then ride along the top. However given how warm this winter is u may not have too many freezing days to pack everything down.

The RMP = how far the snow will discharge from the blower, if 2000 gets the job done fine. With wet heavy deep snow u may want to run the tractor closer to the 540 pto rating. You will see what works best with time.

HOPE you get to try the blower out this year.

 

[MadReferee]

i)do you let it right down so the weight of it is on the ground, or do you keep it up off the ground a bit and if so how much? Everywhere I have to use it is dirt or gravel.I noticed on some snowblowers there appears to be a little adjustable shoe for setting the height. Mine doesn't nor does it appear that it ever did have any.

On my B2710 I have the shoes adjusted for the minimum. I drop the blower right to the ground. I adjust the angle of attack of the front lip of the blower with the top link. Until the ground freezes the lip stays 1/2"-3/4" off the ground.

ii)is getting bits of gravel jammed in the fan a problematic occurence?

It could be. The fan blades should be about 1/8" or so from the shroud. The closer to the shroud the better it will blow. We had a long discussion about this here on TBN several years ago and some blowers are definately better than others in this respect. Gravel can get stuck in there or wedge betwen the fan and shroud housing. It's a fact of life until the ground freezes. I usually go thru 4 or 5 shear bolts each year and my driveway is a cement dust/rock/gravel mix.

iii)is it necessary to run the pto at 540? I think my tractor is rated at 2600 rpm for 540 but so far I've never had to run it above 2000 for anything. The snowblower fan is 20" diameter and has 4 blades on it.

I get best results at PTO RPM. In fact I always run in low range at PTO RPM. The blowers are designed for maximum efficiency at PTO RPM. If you want to go thru heavy snow and have the blower blow the snow out of the way then run at PTO RPM. The tractor engine was designed to run all day at that speed.

iv)is the adjustment of the top link very critical?

Yes, see above.

 

[Fjord]

Thanks for the information. I just went out and found that with the 3pt hitch lowered to its lowest position, shortening the top link actually lifts the whole thing off the ground. I think this might be good because if I adjust the height this way I can't accidentally lower it too close to the ground. It looks like all the shear pins are 1/4" bolts. I've always used the lowest grade of bolt possible for shear pins on other stuff to provide the best protection for the equipment. Any opinions on this? One thing I forgot to ask before- should the stabilizers (turnbuckles ) be adjusted tight with the snowblower on, or adjusted to allow a little side to side movement? Thanks again

 

[MadReferee]

It looks like all the shear pins are 1/4" bolts. I've always used the lowest grade of bolt possible for shear pins on other stuff to provide the best protection for the equipment. Any opinions on this?

Use whatever grade bolts that the blower manufacturer recommends. Not all blowers are designed the same so what my manufacturer recommends may not be what yours does. My Puma has 2 shear pins, one on the PTO shaft and on the auger drive. They are both grade 5 bolts because for the Puma design, grade 2 bolts shear under the slightest load.

One thing I forgot to ask before- should the stabilizers (turnbuckles ) be adjusted tight with the snowblower on, or adjusted to allow a little side to side movement?

Since I don't have turnbuckles I can't answer for sure. My adjusters are set so that there is little or no movement.

 

[Jay_T]

After adding shoes, Found them to be of no use. If the ground is frozen just let it ride on the drive. If the ground isn't solid, the shoes make quite a mess on their own. (My drive is about 400' of gravel, plus another 1/2 acre that i try to keep clear for equipment)

My first purchase was a half dozen 1/4" bolts for shear pins, I've never had to replace one; hope you have the same luck.

It is pretty unusual for me to run the tractor at 2600. You will find an rpm that the egine likes versus how fast you want to go. Wet snow will take more.

good luck JT

 

[Northland]

On my B2710 I have the shoes adjusted for the minimum. I drop the blower right to the ground. I adjust the angle of attack of the front lip of the blower with the top link. Until the ground freezes the lip stays 1/2"-3/4" off the ground.

It could be. The fan blades should be about 1/8" or so from the shroud. The closer to the shroud the better it will blow. We had a long discussion about this here on TBN several years ago and some blowers are definately better than others in this respect. Gravel can get stuck in there or wedge betwen the fan and shroud housing. It's a fact of life until the ground freezes. I usually go thru 4 or 5 shear bolts each year and my driveway is a cement dust/rock/gravel mix.

I get best results at PTO RPM. In fact I always run in low range at PTO RPM. The blowers are designed for maximum efficiency at PTO RPM. If you want to go thru heavy snow and have the blower blow the snow out of the way then run at PTO RPM. The tractor engine was designed to run all day at that speed.

Yes, see above.

Nice picture Mad Ref-where did you get the nice tire chains and tensioners? I need a pair for my B7800 R-4's as skidding trees out on snowy and icy ground seems impossible right now. Also, that's a wicked looking tooth-bar. I have a Markham Welding one on my bucket but it's a toy compared to what's on your B2710. Where did you get that?

 

[MadReferee]

Nice picture Mad Ref-where did you get the nice tire chains and tensioners? I need a pair for my B7800 R-4's as skidding trees out on snowy and icy ground seems impossible right now.

They are 2 link ladder chains with spring tensioners from TireChains.com. I had to remove one link from each tire and shorten the chain accordingly.

Also, that's a wicked looking tooth-bar. I have a Markham Welding one on my bucket but it's a toy compared to what's on your B2710. Where did you get that?

I got it from the dealer. It's a name brand but the label was trashed when I got it new so I don't know the manufacturer's name. It's a 9624719DS if you can find who made it.

 

[herringchoker]

I use an old 6' blower on my B7800. It's really too wide for the tractor, so I always run at 540 PTO RPM and I've had no problems.
I have a gravel driveway and, even with the top link shortened, I sometimes gouged into the lawn when I got astray before the ground froze. The cure I found for this (since I manage to drift off course from time to time ), is to slit a piece of thin wall steel pipe and slide it over the bottom edge of the blower. It is held in place by tabs welded to the pipe and bolted to the blower. This works really well. The attached pic shows the blower in the background with the slit pipe installed on the bottom edge.

 

[Fjord]

Thanks again for all the responses. I've found a website for the manufacturer(Walco) so I'm going to see if I can get a manual . That looks like an interesting idea about putting the pipe on the bottom lip. When you say thin walled pipe is that like EMT? (thin electrical conduit). Also, what size (diameter) did you use, and did you just run your angle grinder along to slit it?
Thanks