Newbie: Question for the mechanically inclined

[coldkubota]

Hello, I just joined the Forum and have already found a wealth of information. Many thanks. I've just purchased a B1550HSTand look forward to getting it operational. I have a couple of questions for the experience mechanics in the group.
The tractor was known to be "non working" ie clutch problems but I purchased it anyway mainly because of the attachments (Hardy FEL, MMM, and 60 inch snow blower). The overall condition is very good however ........I'm now finding out that the clutch problem may be worse than first thought. Apparently the tractor "'seperated" at the clutch housing while unsupported! It seems that the bolts between the housing and the engine block either backed off or were stripped out and the full weight of the tractor ended up supported through the clutch assy and pilot shaft. A Worst case repair quote from a dealer is for $3900.00 cdn.
I know a set of helicoils can fix the stripped threads and I assume that the pilot shaft is likely bent so I'll have to replace it and the clutch itself. These parts are readily available and less the $300.00. What is the likely hood that there is going to be a problem with the HST? Would the stress have been felt that far back? If I'm going to seperate everthing to do the clutch and shaft I'd hate to put it back together only to take it apart again. Any trouble signs I should be looking for? Any recommendations for parts to replace while I'm in the area?
I have a service manual and parts manual (Thanks alchemysa). Still looking for an operators manual.

Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[MrJimi]

How about you fabricate a serious metal splint for it and go for it, kinda like a frame under it
Jim

 

[coldkubota]

Tat might avoid having to put helicoils in but I don't think it would help te noise or vibrations coming from under my feet

 

[alchemysa]

Nice to hear from another B1550 owner although the circumstances aren't ideal! I can't really help much. I've never split my tractor. The parts book shows theres a 'ball' joint between the clutch and the HST that should have taken some stress out of the accident. Bearings and shaft etc will be the obvious area of concern and it appears you've addressed those. If you are going to this much trouble you should probably find out how to
pressure test the HST. Its an 'older' machine so the HST could be tired. Normally, pressure testing is done while the tractor is running but there may be alternative methods. Better to find that out while the machine is in halves just in case the HST is stuffed. Then again, if the machine seems to have the desired pulling power then even if its tired it may be best to leave the HST alone. Any repairs will be very expensive. (I didn't quite understand if you'd ever actually driven the tractor). My only serious problem was a totally blocked wire mesh strainer that feeds fluid to the HST. It virtually brought the tractor to a standstill - But its cheap and easy to fix as long as you can get to the strainer bolt. Mine was 'hidden' behind the backhoe subframe. If the necessary info is not in your service manual email me direct if you want some more info about pressure testing the HST.

 

[coldkubota]

Thanks for reponding. I noticed the "Ball Joint" in the parts book as well and suspect/hope it was able to absorb the loads since it is probably to there to help with and slight misalignment.
I havn't tried to drive or even start the tractor in fear of causing more damage. I'm not even sure if the tractor was under power when the housing seperated or if it was sitting when discovered. There is no sign of leakage anywhere so far, it would seem no extrenal seals are damaged. I've got access to a flexible fibre-optic scope so I just might take a peek into the clutch housing to look for any obvious damage before I open it up. I've seen all the posts on the Strainor's causing problems on the HST to I was planning on changing all fluids and filters etc at the same time as I do the clutch. te Service manual doesn't show and static tests for the HST but suspect an imaginative technician could come up with a method to at least perform some static tests (at least to put the HST under a little pressure and check for leaks). An operational test would be much harder to simulate.
I've been fairly fortunate so far in finding that all the parts I've asked about are still in stock (and reasonably priced compared to mailorder over the internet).
I also found a supplier for the Service Manual that had one in stock and was able to get it to me in 3 working days (only cost $116.00 USD. If interested heres the link Doepker Industrial Repair & Service Ltd - Saskatoon, Saskatchewan - Home. The manufacturer for the loader was very helpful as well and is sending me a replacment manual for it free of charge. Now If the Snowblower manufacturer can do the same thing the only book I'll be missing is the Tractor Operators manual itself.

 

[alchemysa]

Now If the Snowblower manufacturer can do the same thing the only book I'll be missing is the Tractor Operators manual itself.

The Tractor Operators Manual is about 35 pages of VERY basic information -like how to check the oil and tyre pressure. Definitely not worth the $80 that I wasted on it.

 

[coldkubota]

Thanks for the warning. I guess I'll wait until I think of anyting the service manual doesn't answer. Essentially all I am interested in is the basic operation of the controls since the Service manual provides the maintenance schedule and fluid capacities.

 

[alchemysa]

Thanks for the warning. I guess I'll wait until I think of anyting the service manual doesn't answer. Essentially all I am interested in is the basic operation of the controls since the Service manual provides the maintenance schedule and fluid capacities.

Well perhaps its not totally useless... but they could have fitted the worthwhile stuff on a couple of A4 pages and charged me a buck. Most of the controls are pretty obvious. Things to remember... You have to have the kill button 'in' and your foot on the clutch to start (and its good practice to do the same when you change most levers). Setting of the PTO speed can be fiddly. The little hand brake lever is easily 'forgotten'. Rabbit/turtle lever is easily knocked into neutral with your right heel and you'll go nowhere. I hardly ever use bi-speed turn, but move the lever ocassionally or it can seize up. Sounds like you'll have plenty of time to think up questions.