Thinning timber for wildlife

   / Thinning timber for wildlife #1  

deerehunter0327

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Joined
Feb 25, 2011
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3
Tractor
John Deere 5065e
Recently purchased a tract of land for recreational hunting and small time farming. Total tract is 150+ acres with about 130 in woods. Plan is to do about a 25-30% thinning this year and burn the next to improve habitat for wildlife. Hopefullly i can then plant food plots. Any pros and cons of cutting this much timber would be appreciated. I've had a couple of people claim that my hunting would be ruined for the next several years. Plan on planting with rest of the open land with corn/beans. Oh yeah, part of the package was a brand new JD 5065e with frontier 4in1 loader and rhino 6 ft rotary cutter. Hopefully the loader will come in handy with removing underbrush and fallen logs. I do realize that a grapple would be better but mayber when by bank account recovers.
 
   / Thinning timber for wildlife #2  
Recently purchased a tract of land for recreational hunting and small time farming. Total tract is 150+ acres with about 130 in woods. Plan is to do about a 25-30% thinning this year and burn the next to improve habitat for wildlife. Hopefullly i can then plant food plots. Any pros and cons of cutting this much timber would be appreciated. I've had a couple of people claim that my hunting would be ruined for the next several years. Plan on planting with rest of the open land with corn/beans. Oh yeah, part of the package was a brand new JD 5065e with frontier 4in1 loader and rhino 6 ft rotary cutter. Hopefully the loader will come in handy with removing underbrush and fallen logs. I do realize that a grapple would be better but mayber when by bank account recovers.

I would actually look to cut less than this. for a wildlife opening, there are a few things to consider: existing tree growth and habitat, available browse and food source, sheltering, and estimated deer per acre (you might be able to get an estimate from coop extension or wildlife management for your state). For short money of your total investment, I would work with a certified forester specializing in not just timber management but also wildlife and land use mangement. My FIL does this for the National Forests and it's interesting to me so I've tried to pay attention!

it doesn't take much of an opening like I said, to create a better wildlife lot. I disagree that hunting will be bad for a few years, I've seen just the opposite in over 15 cuttings I've helped with and later hunted. Hope this helps!
 
   / Thinning timber for wildlife #3  
I too, would thin smaller patches.

Last Fall I cleared a 2 acre patch that was getting too big, causing the undergrowth to be killed out. I left some "seed" trees, Hickory, Oak, Walnut & Wild Crab trees. This Spring I plan to sow it to Ladino clover & Birdsfoot Trefoil, then let it gradually grow back to brush. Deer will browse the undergrowth & other wildlife will benefit from the seeds & cover.

I've done this to other areas of my 20 acre (M or L) timber that has more timber nearby. Also keep trails through the timber, deer & turkeys will often follow these trails. ~~ grnspot110
 
   / Thinning timber for wildlife #4  
If you live in GA , then I say it sounds about right. Deer are so abudent that they are to lazy to travel in the thick stuff. There is a 1000 acre feild across the street and literally 100 deer stand out in the field at dusk.

Several small plots. Clear out some of the under growth to allow the other trees to mature. Leave long narrow areas of thicker trees for bedding. Install around 10 salt licks and 10 feeders. Then give me a call when you opening day rolls around!:thumbsup:
 
   / Thinning timber for wildlife #5  
I would actually look to cut less than this. for a wildlife opening, there are a few things to consider: existing tree growth and habitat, available browse and food source, sheltering, and estimated deer per acre (you might be able to get an estimate from coop extension or wildlife management for your state). For short money of your total investment, I would work with a certified forester specializing in not just timber management but also wildlife and land use mangement. My FIL does this for the National Forests and it's interesting to me so I've tried to pay attention!

it doesn't take much of an opening like I said, to create a better wildlife lot. I disagree that hunting will be bad for a few years, I've seen just the opposite in over 15 cuttings I've helped with and later hunted. Hope this helps!

This is very good advice.It's better to have small cleared "strips" than just thinning. All cleared land is bad. All heavy wooded areas are bad. Wildlife needs both. And as sparrowhawk says it won't hurt the hunting. I have hunted many places that were being logged while I was hunting.
 
   / Thinning timber for wildlife #6  
Way more information needed. Where are you, type of woods, timber management plan, desired wildlife species etc... Just heard a pretty good presentation this weekend on maintaining early successional forest habitat by a gal working on her PHD @ Cornell. Lots of info out there from various Universities, Ruffed Grouse Society, N Wild Turkey Fed etc. Contact your state or consulting foresters about coming up with a mangement plan to fit your objectives.
 
   / Thinning timber for wildlife #7  
Way more information needed. Where are you, type of woods, timber management plan, desired wildlife species etc... Just heard a pretty good presentation this weekend on maintaining early successional forest habitat by a gal working on her PHD @ Cornell. Lots of info out there from various Universities, Ruffed Grouse Society, N Wild Turkey Fed etc. Contact your state or consulting foresters about coming up with a mangement plan to fit your objectives.


Agreed on all parts! The other important item to mention is: remember that it's pretty difficult to keep one area managed to one species for a specific use. In the case of whitetail deer, a deer yard or place that they winter typically can be managed for 10-15 years before they would then move to a more suitable area. This is because your variables are always changing (i.e. everything from underbrush, light opening, canopy, seed crop, etc). A good forester would be able to get you pointed in the right direction, and if you are serious, I would go that route, else your results could be a crapshoot for lack of better terms. :)
 
 
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