FAE mulcher blew the seal again today for the third time in 2 months. I guess it's time to get rid of the FAE and get into a new brand of mulcher. Unless FAE works with me on a trade in for a new FAE. I have my doubts though. I like the FAE performance and the mulch it makes but could use a bit more torque and the teeth are very hard to get off.
FAE blown seal again
- Thread starter satxcedar
- Start date
Eric H
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2008
- Messages
- 68
Not bad mouthing FAE , at all. But we run fecons and cimaf... Give either of those two a look. Cimaf production is better, but requires more maintenance... Fecon is durable we have two heads with 5 k hours and all we have done is teeth, a few belts and a bearing or two, very easy to work on.... Cimaf is easiest to change teeth on, unless you put chippers on the fecon, then it's about even
tonyoz
Platinum Member
Mate, that's a hellava call to make. You may end up with a new mulcher but with the same old problem. If it was me I would get the machine to a good hydraulic specialist and thoroughly check the whole thing out:2cents:
Robbie Hegwood
Platinum Member
If you are confident you checked all hoses, fittings etc. then your next step should be having the motor checked. Hyd. motors have rings that seal the pistons just like cars and you might have had one broke. That would allow excessive fluid by the piston and to much pressure and fluid into the case. Are you still running the the QD's on the case drain line? I know some manufacturers will void the warranty if QD's are installed. Ask FAE if you can take the motor to a authorized repair center. That way if the motor is defective everything is cetified. If you go this route ask the repair place to take an oil sample for possible warranty claims.
Yes, I am still using the QD's. I have thought about not using them but I do other kinds of work with the bobcat and not having the QD's would make it hard to change attachments. I bought the FAE from a local dealer, it was their demo. model with what they said only about 30 hours on it. I have put at the most 500 hours on the mulcher. It is a 2007 model but with the low hours I wouldn't think it would have motor problems. I have checked all case drain lines on ther FAE and the Bobcat. I changed the case drain filter on the bobcat and the case drain coupler. I even blew air through the line to make sure of no trash. As far as the coupler for the case drain, do you know if it maters what side (Bobcat or mulcher) the female coupler should be on? I noticed the female end has an arrow on it indicating flow direction. The FAE was set up like this when I bought it. As far as warranty, it is expired. I have been using the mulcher for about three years now with no problems. I guess that is why there is only a two year warranty. Are these mulcher motors usually repairable or do the need replacing most of the time. FAE told me the motor cost about 5,000.00 to replace. I wonder if I can find one cheaper somewhere. Another thing with the seal blowing, the second and third time it blew out, it took about the same amount of working time running the mulcher for it to blow out.
tonyoz
Platinum Member
What bred of hydraulic motor is it? Most motors can be serviced/repaired costing a lot less than a new one. If the motor is not repairable then maybe look at pricing one directly from the hydraulic motor agents. The FAE price is away to hexey. I brought a new Rexroth 63cc motor for my Fecon 2yrs ago, cost $2500 and that's in Australia were we are charged double the price you guys in the States pay
tonyoz
Platinum Member
Behind the end plate where the 2 main hoses attach there is a brass plate. This plate can get score marks on it which could be the cause of your problem. Unless you have a lot of experience as a fitter and know how to blueprint, it's a job for a GOOD hydraulic tech. If you remove and refit the motor yourself it should only cost a few hundred bucks and it should be like new. If the motor is buggered then ring around your Rexroth agents, you should be able to get parts to fix it though and still be cheaper than buying a new mulcher.:laughing::thumbsup:
PS There should be a control box on your mulcher which has a whole lot of valves in it. The rubber and plastic O rings that you found in the hydraulic system could have come from that, it would also pay to have it checked out, and pressure tested.
PS There should be a control box on your mulcher which has a whole lot of valves in it. The rubber and plastic O rings that you found in the hydraulic system could have come from that, it would also pay to have it checked out, and pressure tested.
Last edited:
I am going to remove the motor and control box and take it to a hydraulic shop in my area. I talked to a tech. already and he said most of the time these motors are repairable. Good thing is that the shop will have at least a 1 year warranty.