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  1. #1
    Silver Member v8only's Avatar
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    May 2012
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    Mb
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    1988 John Deere 755

    Default seeding 4 acres critique me

    Hey all,

    This fall i will be getting ready to seed my 4 acre yard. The yard is currently decently leveled and full of weeds. I cut the weeds every week to keep the yard looking clean. My plan is to in late august or early September to cut and round up the complete yard wait till all weeds are dead then lay down grass seed leaving the dead weeds in the ground, turn over the soil with a harrow upside down and water then wait till it snows and hope fully it grows in the spring.

    Anything you guys would change? add or remove?

    Thanks.
    1988 John Deere 755
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  2. #2
    Silver Member PatasColo's Avatar
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    Nov 2010
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    225
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    Front Range of Colorado, USA
    Tractor
    Kioti CK20S HST and Gravely walk-behind (2 wheel tractor - 700 lbs.).

    Default Re: seeding 4 acres critique me

    Some thoughts:
    Weeds usually put out a copious amount of seeds. Their seeds are usually viable for a long time (several years), and many weed seeds have much better germination rates in "disturbed soil", i.e. when you turn it over. So, if you do exactly as you propose, I believe you will end up with a mix of growth containing grass and a lot of weeds. You could move forward with that (i.e. weed-n-feed down the road, etc.)

    By mowing the weeds, you cut down on the number of seeds (i.e. preventing many of them from seeding this year). The most recommended method of killing all the remaining ones in the ground is to solarize, using clear plastic (better than black). Google the term if interested. Unfortunately, doing this for 4 acres is "challenging." I don't consider it a reasonable option in your case.

    Another method I've heard is to apply the herbicide to kill things (especially roots). Wait a couple days. Then till, then water the area consistently (during warm weather) to cause more weed seeds to germinate. From this point, you could either a) use herbicide again, and repeat the process as much as you wanted or b) simply till the baby seedlings in (will kill most of them), and repeat that process as much as you wanted. Either one of these will get rid of a LOT of potential weeds, and the latter one is not so chemical intensive, though it takes some tractoring.

    I'm going to bet there are other potential methods... I'd definitely recommend trying to do something to avoid too many weeds in the new grass to begin with... and best of luck!
    -Mitch

  3. #3
    Silver Member paulemar's Avatar
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    May 2011
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    187
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    Pittsburgh, PA
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    Kubota BX25, 60" MMM, 3 point hitch

    Default

    Weeds are going to come up with the grass seed no matter what you do. Take care of them later.
    Round up the area late this summer. That's good.
    Buy quality seed. With grass seed, you pretty much get what you pay for.
    Rough up the area so the grass seed will have good contact with the soil. Grass seed should not be planted at more than 1/2" deep MAX.
    Plant your seed 1/2 in one direction, the rest at 90 degrees to the first batch. This will give more even coverage.
    Drag the area to cover as much seed as possible. If your harrow is a chain harrow, upside down is perfect.
    Timing is important on this, so follow the local recommendations for planting grass seed in your area.
    Fall planted grass is superior to Spring planted as it can be several months ahead in establishment the next Summer.
    Then you can start taking care of the weeds/crabgrass with easily available lawn products. Follow the label directions exactly and you will get results.

    Having a nice lawn is going to be an ongoing project, especially with 4 acres.

    Good luck and good weather!
    BX25, "60" MMM, 3 point hitch, Brinly 12" cat 0 1 bottom plow, TSC Countyline carry all, Kubota ballast box, 4X4 Loyal drag harrow, BXpanded Piranha tooth bar, Bro-Tek rear skid plate, Bro-Tek wheel spacers, Bro-Tek backhoe ripper tooth. Kubota BX2763A front plow, Phoenix T4 48" rototiller, Harbor Freight Quick Hitch, BXpanded Quick-on Work light Kit, Mark Hodge stabilizers.

  4. #4
    Super Member
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    Cedartown, Ga and N. Ga mountains
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    1998 Kubota B21, 2005 Kubota L39

    Default Re: seeding 4 acres critique me

    One thing I would add is to have a soil test done now to see if you need an additive like lime to balance the PH. With the wrong PH it doesn't matter what you do the grass will struggle. Lime takes a while to react with the soil so that could be done now if needed. Your county extension service can help with the soil test. They are also a good source of information on what works best in your area.

    MarkV

  5. #5
    Super Member
    Join Date
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    Cedartown, Ga and N. Ga mountains
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    1998 Kubota B21, 2005 Kubota L39

    Default Re: seeding 4 acres critique me

    One thing I would add is to have a soil test done now to see if you need an additive like lime to balance the PH. With the wrong PH it doesn't matter what you do the grass will struggle. Lime takes a while to react with the soil so that could be done now if needed. Your county extension service can help with the soil test. They are also a good source of information on what works best in your area.

    MarkV

  6. #6
    Elite Member s219's Avatar
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    Dec 2011
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    Virginia USA
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    Kubota L3200

    Default Re: seeding 4 acres critique me

    The only thing I would add is to allow another two weeks cycle for a repeat roundup as needed. Around where I live, certain weeds (like common bermuda) take at least two roundup applications to truly kill. I made the mistake of planting grass after just once cycle of roundup, and it was disheartening to see the bermuda green back up before my new grass took! So now I always start the roundup cycle early to allow time for a repeat application as needed (heck, I plan to start beating back the bermuda in another 2-3 weeks in order to be ready for a Sept 15 planting). Normally repeat spray just needed in small areas, so it's not a major effort. Good luck!

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