Lawn aerator

   / Lawn aerator #1  

deereman64

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Dec 3, 2005
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I have just purchased a lawn aerator in attempt to reduce the amount of fertilizer that I need to put down. It is a 42 inch model and the limit from the manual for added weight is 145 lbs. My soil is a heavy clay. Any sugestions as to the weight I should add.I have Jd2210 so pulling it around is not a problem.
 
   / Lawn aerator #2  
what is the strategy in the attempt to reduce the amount of fert
by core aerating? core aerating will not lessen the need for fert.
a soil analysis is always the best when needing a starting point as to the needs of your lawn, soil PH is very important. the aeration only increases air flow and drainage in the soil, as well as thatch control, but with your clay soil you will need to change the structure of the soil by topdressing
it after a good deep aeration. not sure that you will achieve any depth with hard clay soil, maybe an inch if that much. the benifits of core aeration are greatly lessened when the soil is hard compacted or very wet. Nitrogen is the most used of the three main nutrients NPK- nitrogen phosporus,potassium. phosporus and potassium stay in the soil depending on the CEC,
(cation exchange capacity) which with clay soil will be fair. so if a soil test reveals the levels of P and K are good which they probobly are just use a nitrogen type fert like a 36-0-0 or 46-0-0. I would get a soil test before doing anything else. your soil could need lime as well.
 
   / Lawn aerator #3  
If you over load it by as little as 50 pounds the axles may bend a little and the nylon axle bushings will wear out fast. At least that is what happened to my 48" JD core aireator.
 
   / Lawn aerator #4  
Garrabo,
You seem to have a better grip on the whole fertilizer thing than I do, I'm just trying to get a program started on my yard.. The impression I get from the info I have read on the subject of aerating is that it will help the fertilizer bill simply because the fertilizer can now get to the roots rather than run off in the rain, and softens the soil because now its preferated and had room to "move".. So, I did aerate my Ga clay this weekend(before the rain) and fertilized at the recomended rate.. Again, just what I have been told and read, so I hope it works to my benefit.. Apparently this is what he has hear too.
 
   / Lawn aerator
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thank you for your detailed reply. The reason I want to reduce the amount of fertilizer is because I have well water and my wife is nervous about chemicals in the water supply. I know that this fear is probably exaggerated but what can one do.
How do you go about soil testing. Do you use the state agricultural experts or can you recommend a commercial kit.
 
   / Lawn aerator #6  
Yeah, I use the county extension office on Roswell road.
also, concerning punching holes in hard clay does not make the
tight soil texture or structure of clay drain any faster. yeah the fert falls into the holes but a good rain will float it out before it soaks in.
if you can manage to get a good deep aeration then you should fill the holes with compost, humus, mushroom compost to build the soil structure and increase the CEC. If you get the soil tested this will give you a good starting point on a fert program. The greatest nutrient availability to the turf occurs at a PH range of 6.5 to 7.5.
otherwise you are wasting fert. I dug out my clay and replaced it with organic topsoil. most areas have no topsoil, just the B horizon which is the sub soil. it does not matter what cultivar of grass seed you have, you can have the best cultivar available, but if the soil sucks so will the results. the soil is more important than the seed. Its a good idea to increase the tilth of the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inchs for excellent results.
 
 
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