3-Point Hitch Using an old plow on a ompact utility tractor

[HandyDanny]

Hello. I am looking at buying a 3-point, 2 bottom plow to use with my LS R3039. I've noticed that a bar intended to hold the front coulter protrudes from the front of these plows and seems to prohibit connecting the plow to a compact util tractor's 3 point - the bar protrudes so far that it will interfere with the back of the tractor. I'm contemplating cutting off that bar as close to the bracing for the 3-point hitch as possible. I hate to cut something off of a nice antique plow, but I think that these old plows are really good and so I'd like to use one if I could...plus they're less expensive than a brand new plow and probably work better, too.

What would your opinion be about my cutting off that bar? It shouldn't harm the integrity and strength of the plow, I would believe.

Also, what kind of plows are you using behind CUTs?

 

[2458n]

I had to remove the front coulter of my Dearborn brand two bottom plow .The Ford 8n tractor had longer arms than my Kubota L245DT. No chopping needed just removal of the coulter. If you have to cut the Iron beam with a stihl cut-off saw. or make two passes with a milwaukee deep throat portable hand held bandsaw. There are many 2 bottom plows around so make one you can use. Many of the small gardens just get tilled in the fall and again in the spring-no need for a real farm type plow. Even most farmers do not plow any more in Ohio.

 

[boggen]

pictures worth a 1000 words.

 

[HandyDanny]

I really wanted a tiller and studied tillers vs. plows, but finally decided to go for a plow b/c of its ability to get deeper and turn the soil better. (Considered ability to till gardens to pay off the tiller, too, but...) I've had 1.5 acres cleared of cedars and need to augment my soil considerably to get the pH where it should be to be productive. I appreciate the response and apologize for my delay in posting - been very busy.

 

[Daver1963]

Are you using a quick hitch?

 

[jeff9366]

Moldboard plows are inflexible as to working depth. Learning to adjust a moldboard plow takes time and can be a frustrating process. Plow wear parts are hard to find.

If you are considering a 2-12" moldboard plow, with rust-free moldboards and other ground contact parts sharp, you may be able to pull the plow through Missouri clay. You have not posted the weight of your tractor but it is likely marginal in ability to pull a 2-14" or 2-16" size moldboard plow. Moldboard plowing generates high draft force.

If you moldboard plow, you will have to acquire a Disc Harrow to knock down the furrows and break up large clods produced in the plowing process, then drag the field to level it before seeding.

For 1-1/2 acres, which is a VERY LARGE garden, you will be better off with a PTO powered rotary tiller.

LINKS: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...oard-plow-wisdom-farmwithjunk.html?highlight=

https://www.google.com/search?clien...tractorbynet.com&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&gws_rd=ssl

 

[HandyDanny]

I'm not using a quick hitch.

My tractor weighs, per mfr specs, about 2,800 lbs plus about 1,200 lbs with the loader attached (might remove that for plowing but the sub-frame would be left on the tractor). Have ag tires ballasted with methanol. From about 12 yrs of age I annually plowed and disked my grandparent's gardens using a Ford 9N (weight per tractordata.com 2140 to 3375 pounds) with ag tires ballasted with CaCl. That tractor pulled a 2-bottom moldboard thru Mo. soil about 10" or 12" deep (don't know the size of the plows but tractordata shows the 9N was rated for a 2-bottom 14" plow) so I'm hoping/assuming my LS R3039 with about 10-15 HP more should be able to do at least what the 9N could.

 

[Daver1963]

I initially bought a tiller as I thought that would be all I needed, but I was tilling grass that hadn't been worked in who knows when and the tiller just wouldn't go deep enough. I ended up buying a Ferguson 2 X 12 breaking plow. It comes pretty close to the back end, but it seems to do the job. Now I break first then till. Luckily I only paid $175 for the plow.
I am using a Kubota L2800 that has 30hp and R4 tires. I wish for plowing I had some ag tires, but I needed a happy medium as I also use it to cut my grass.

 

[jeff9366]

That tractor pulled a 2-bottom moldboard thru Mo. soil about 10" or 12" deep (don't know the size of the plows but tractordata shows the 9N was rated for a 2-bottom 14" plow) so I'm hoping/assuming my LS R3039 with about 10-15 HP more should be able to do at least what the 9N could.

Ford rated their plows in the Dearborn fields, which are sand, when the plows were NEW. Ford was never shy regarding trade puffery. Remember, too, all the Fords had Draft Control.

In clay, I think a 2-12" is reasonable, for a USED plow with some wear. I am skeptical about a larger plow. Tractor weight is much more important than tractor HP when plowing; soil friction, plow inertia and tractor traction are the issues. If you cannot pull fast enough, the soil will not turn over.

Don't be mad; I am just sharing my experience, trying to be helpful.

You have not described the size plow you are considering, nor its condition.

Take time to read the FARMWITHJUNK compendium in Post #6. No one on T-B-N has posted more informative threads on plowing, including plow selection.

You seem set on a plow. Though I love to plow, I believe a PTO powered tiller will better mix 1-1/2 acres of soil. With a tiller you can apply that tractor horsepower to the implement.

You know your conditions better than I.

 

[jeff9366]

I initially bought a tiller as I thought that would be all I needed, but I was tilling grass that hadn't been worked in who knows when and the tiller just wouldn't go deep enough.

What area of ground are you working?

In Post #3 the OP states he has 1-1/2 acre cleared.