LS XJ2025H initial thoughts

   / LS XJ2025H initial thoughts #1  

CMV

Platinum Member
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May 10, 2015
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Location
NC
Tractor
Kioti NX4510HST (previous LS XJ2025H, JD 500C)
Bought a slightly used LS XJ2025H and picked it up Sat morning. Had 37 hrs on it. As of last night just over 50, so did a lot in just 2 days. I really like my little tractor, but being a novice have nothing to compare it to. But for just a guy maintaining some land the things I like list is much longer than things I dislike. I really wanted a Kubota L3901HST and thought that was best size for what I need to do. But this was what I could afford :) I think I got a good deal on it. $13,5 (no tax since bought from previous owner, not a dealer) for tractor, loader, bush hog, pallet forks (separate attachment - not the clamp to bucket kind). I don't think I could have bought just the tractor and loader new for that & 37 hrs is basically new.

I have ~6AC in a long rectangle shape. Some is flat, some steep hills. Some cleared, some nasty. I turned it into a private gun range so am maintaining some 8' tall dirt berms for backstops. Land doesn't drain well (won't perc) and I'm always fighting pooling water/soft spots after a rain or ruts/ditches from water finding it's way to lower ground.

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After 2 days of running it around, these are my initial thoughts. Keep in mind I'm a novice and don't know a lot about tractors in general.

Things I like:
* The HST pedals - I like the placement and like the arrangement better than a rocker pedal
* The HST brake. This might be how every one in the world works, but I like that I let of the pedal and it brakes and holds the tractor. Needs a fairly steep incline to require the brake pedal.
* HST in general - since I'm in & out of a dirt or gravel pile nonstop HST was a requirement for me. I couldn't see all that forward/reverse moving and working a foot pedal clutch.
* Seat is comfortable. Light tractor + small tires = pretty rough ride over rough terrain. The seat really absorbs a lot but not to the point it is "bouncy". I felt a little beat up at end of day, but imagine a stiffer seat would make that much worse.
* Bush hog is a beast. I worried that a 5' was too big and some of the areas I needed to clear were downright nasty. Vines, thick stuff, saplings, tall stuff, rocks - just a mess. But pretty much if the tractor knocked it over, the bush hog cut it up. Had no problem going thru the yuckiest stuff and the tractor pulling/driving the bush hog. It's the $999 Tractor Supply one so was kinda worried about that too, but together they did much better than I was expecting.
* Quick change front bucket. I can swap from pallet forks to bucket in a minute. Incredibly quick and easy to change what is up front.
* Controls in general. All are located for easy reach and pretty intuitive. Simple for a novice like me to just look at it and say "this does that". I like the knob to turn PTO on/off
* Seems strong enough to do a lot of what I want it to. Drug 2 limbed medium-large sized pine trees (down & dead a while) at same time and it didn't seem to care. Unweighted 5' box blade, teeth up, you could feel it adding "drag" but even if it filled the box tractor just kept going forward.
* Most general maintenance things seem easy to get to. Checking oil, coolant, greasing all that kind of stuff is easy to reach.
* Bucket level indicator. This is nice - without it I would have no idea since I can't judge by looking at it like a bigger bucket on a backhoe.
* Had 2 loads of crushed concrete delivered last week, about 17T each. One was ABC size (but half fines/large sand) other is next size up and about size of a lemon. Well over half that is already moved, spread, and leveled.
* Really sips the fuel. Ran all day on a tank (and a tank isn't all that much)
* The rear mounted work light has the switch right on the light body. Don't have to go to front of tractor to turn it on where switch for rest of lights are. Convenient to stand behind tractor and turn that on/off as needed. It's also pretty bright.
* Overall I was impressed. I wanted a slightly larger frame, weight, & HP, but some of the things the LS was able to do I thought were good for it's size and 25hp.

Things I don't really like: (and keep in mind I'm a novice so some might just be not knowing what I'm doing/doing it the hard way)

* It will get stuck in 2WD very easily and diff lock does nothing. Corner of bush hog digs just a little, you spin. Back tire in rut, you spin. I was expecting to need 4WD with a full bucket, but not frequently just bush hogging or dragging a box blade not angled to cut much. Previous owner filled rear tires, but I have no idea with what or how many gallons. Needs 4WD a lot more often than I thought it should. Industrial treads, rears are 15 psi with fluid.
* Rear PTO cover shield is fixed. I thought those were supposed to flip up so you could get it out of your way?
* Fuel fill top rear center of hood. Very difficult to fill from a 5 gal can (esp with new enviro spouts) and not get diesel places I don't want it.
* Like some cars, the fuel gauge reads 'full' for a very long time, but once it starts moving, it goes to 'empty' in a hurry. I just noticed it on 'empty' last night and wondered how that happened since I didn't notice it under half even. But adding just about 2 gal it read 'full' again. I'm suspecting that once it starts to move off 'full' there is appx 1/2 tank left.
* FEL stick control is twitchy. Probably just need to get used to it. Real easy to drop bucket way faster than wanted. Real easy to move down while curling bucket up.
* Radiator fan makes front grill a vacuum cleaner. I was constantly clearing the mesh vents as they were completely packed with weed seeds. No idea what kind of plant it is, but I have a lot of something that has a small cotton-like seed. Like a dandelion seed, only "flufflier" and a light tan color. Temp gauge never went up, but thought that can't be good. A lot also gets thru that mesh and sticks on the finer mesh screen directly in front of radiator. Based on that....kind of afraid to look at air filter... Coolant overflow tank is too close to that mesh screen at radiator and you can't wipe it clean with your hand behind the tank.
* Don't know right term for it, but lever to adjust rear attachment height is just up/down. There isn't a down stop. I found if I wanted box blade up just a little to spread gravel a little thicker, it was hard getting it at same height. Same for bush hog but I wasn't concerned if there was a small difference in cutting height for that stuff. If I were trying to make the bush hog finish mow and go for pretty I think it would be difficult if there was ever a need to raise it and then try to get back to same exact height.
* Toolbox. It's nice that it's there, but is too small to really put anything in it. Pins and screwdrivers fit. Wrench big enough for rear link lock nuts barely if 10" handle. Small claw hammer won't fit.
* Plastic fenders and covers. Doesn't seem any more substantial than typical ATV plastic. If they hold up about the same, meaning covered in scratches, discolored, and starting to crack, in about a year or less I won't like that. I know it's just cosmetic and this might be a tougher plastic, but if feels similar so I am predicting similar lifespan (not long) before the plastic starts looking trashed.
* Occasionally it doesn't want to switch between 2WD & 4WD. Handle doesn't move. Bump one of the directional pedals a few times and then it easily engages. Had me concerned first time it happened because I thought I broke something.
* Seat belt - nothing holds it. The long end just falls to the ground when you take it off. If you're going to use it (and since I'm a novice I just use it all the time because I am unfamiliar with the machine and don't know when I should vs when not really needed) every time you take it off, you're fumbling around to get both ends and put it back on every time you back on the tractor. It is so bad, I really want to shorten it and just leave it buckled behind the seat all the time. I know that's the wrong solution, but it is aggravating and just 2 plastic sleeves or a retraction wheel for the long side like on a car would fix it.

I found myself not thrilled with the bucket not being able to break out with a full scoop if taken from the bottom of the pile, the small amount of material that the bucket holds, and the amount of movement in the bucket angle trying to drag backwards to spread out/level gravel. I knew the bucket capacity and lift strength would be limitations going in and why I wanted something a little larger, so can't really complain that it works within its limits. It moved a LOT of dirt and gravel for me this weekend, just felt like I was moving it a tablespoon at a time compared to what a 75hp backhoe did :)

Also had never hooked up a 3pt implement by myself before, but it took me a good 50 min to remove box blade and attach bush hog. Most of that time was just getting the drive shaft attached to the PTO spline. Hoping that gets easier as I do it more, but there is just no room to get in there and work.

Overall, it seems like a very nice machine. I think I got a lot of machine for my $. Had I not got it slightly used and had to pay new machine price, I don't know how it would stack up vs competing models. Within it's size limitations, it will do everything I need done.
 
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   / LS XJ2025H initial thoughts #2  
I found myself not thrilled with the bucket not being able to break out with a full scoop if taken from the bottom of the pile, the small amount of material that the bucket holds, and the amount of movement in the bucket angle trying to drag backwards to spread out/level gravel. I knew the bucket capacity and lift strength would be limitations going in and why I wanted something a little larger, so can't really complain that it works within its limits. It moved a LOT of dirt and gravel for me this weekend, just felt like I was moving it a tablespoon at a time compared to what a 75hp backhoe did :)

Sounds like you got a pretty good deal. I don't get how people buy new tractors and only put 20-30 hours on them and sell them....

loading and breakout with the bucket was my biggest complaint.... but easily fixed. The pressure release valve can be turned up a bit 1/4 to 1/2 turn will make it come to life. I also wasn't thrilled about the plastics but it appears to be a similar type of fiber reinforced plastic GMC once used on their HD trucks(not sure if they still do). Some fiber reinforced plastics can be as strong or stronger than aluminum, but I'm pretty sure the company is betting on people storing these machines in a barn or garage and not out in the elements
 
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   / LS XJ2025H initial thoughts #3  
Not sure about the PTO guard on the XJ series, but on my XR it too was fixed, would not flip up, making it very hard to connect the PTO shaft. 2 bolts removed and I took it off.

George
 
   / LS XJ2025H initial thoughts #4  
You are definitely getting your feet wet here. Good deal. 2nd what jdom84 said on the relief valve, yours must be set a little low. When I fill ours w/ fuel- I think the same. I put a rag down and have another can to set the Mister funnel in when I'm done. And I still am wiping up diesel.
 
   / LS XJ2025H initial thoughts
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thinking maybe something like this will make fueling better/easier/cleaner? TERAPUMP Power Water / Fuel Battery Pumps with AutoStop - - Amazon.com

Have a gas station about 3/4 mile away so can just go there. Did that once, but was scraping the road leading to my property so was real close to it anyway. Any other time, would be a special trip. Only filled from 5 gal can once but found that much more difficult than I thought it should be. The spout on the fuel can is very obnoxious - you have to push a red bar down and then put rearward pressure on the spout for fuel to flow. So that is probably part of the problem too. A fat funnel and a spout that 'just pours' might be fine as well. Still learning how to do even the most basic of things :) But it seems to me that if that filler were mounted on the side and at an angle it would be much simpler to fill from a can. Maybe they just assume most people will use a pump?

Where would I find this relief valve and go about adjusting it? Is there potential to adjust too much and break something? I'm taking dirt or gravel from a pile dropped by a large tandem dump truck (the kind with the 3rd axle that drops down when needed - would you call that a triaxle? Smaller than a regular triaxle, but a little larger than a typical tandem). Anyway, piles aren't 10' tall or anything. I can get a full scoop from near the top and curl up just fine. From the bottom it won't curl or if it does, won't then raise. Sounds stupid when I think about - just take a smaller amount - but since the bucket is already such a small amount, I want the most I can get in it each trip to the pile. Also, taking from the bottom seems more efficient - taking from higher makes it spread out more and then I have a bigger footprint at the end to deal with cleaning up.

My safety triangle sign vibrated both its nuts loose and fell off. Easy fix. But that has me wondering, what other fasteners are working themselves loose? The manual lists some as routine checks to check for torque, but does not list a torque spec. Other than 'snug' no idea the value in checking them without knowing what torque they should be?

I'll have to come up with something for that PTO spline cover. I don't like the idea of just unbolting it for more room to work. I know how I am and after doing that a few times, I will leave it off entirely for convenience. Haven't really looked at it, but probably an easy way to at least make it 2 pieces that pin together so to or a side can easily come off to make room. That or just more practice - someone who knows what they're doing it might not be a problem at all.

Looking forward to this weekend so I can do more projects with it! :) I've already turned a nice amount of my property that was just overgrown and unusable into space I can do something with. Nice feeling.
 
   / LS XJ2025H initial thoughts #6  
the relief valve is on the right side under the seat, should have a hydro hose coming out. You will need to loosen the nut and then tighten the screw with a hex key wrench, then when happy with the change tighten the nut back. With out putting a gauge on it, I don't recommend turning it up more than 1 full turn. All hydraulic components have working pressures and higher intermittent pressures but if turned up to much and then maxed out the system by holding the tilt lever on the bucket, you could blow something up... most likely the pump seals. You also have to think about how much more stress is on the loader and front axel. Not so much of a problem with the small bucket but the pallet forks and an over sized load could break something.

My last tractor had the fuel fill in the same exact location. I never really had an issue filling it and didn't care if a bit a diesel spilled on the hood but it was old... not new. Im not a big guy (5'7" 145lbs) and wrestling with 5 gallons of fuel at shoulder height isn't much fun.

I have found that using a modified nozzle like this helps, it only lets fuel out when the nozzle is pushed in. I broke all the safety crap off so I don't have to spin the "green thing" to get it working. just put the nozzle into the fuel tank and rest the flange against the edge. the weight of the fuel will open the valve and fuel will flow. I bet you could modify the one you have and remove the "red bar" to do the same.

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   / LS XJ2025H initial thoughts #7  
look at no spill brand gas cans, you will never use another again. it appears Walmart now sells an off brand of them as well
 
   / LS XJ2025H initial thoughts #8  
* Bush hog is a beast. It's the $999 Tractor Supply one so was kinda worried about that too, but together they did much better than I was expecting.

I worried that a 5' was too big and some of the areas I needed to clear were downright nasty. Vines, thick stuff, saplings, tall stuff, rocks - just a mess. But pretty much if the tractor knocked it over, the bush hog cut it up. Had no problem going thru the yuckiest stuff and the tractor pulling/driving the bush hog.



A Ratchet Rake attachment on your bucket will improve brush/sapling knockdown and drag out same by roots, increasing interval between maintenance mowings. RR will reduce probability of bending a blade on your Rotary Cutter. RR is better than a Landscape Rake for piling debris.

TSC sells the Ratchet Rake but TSC's inventory is sporadic, at least in Florida. Alternatively you can order RR "drop ship" from the TBN STORE, agent. No sales tax.


* Occasionally it doesn't want to switch between 2WD & 4WD. Handle doesn't move. Bump one of the directional pedals a few times and then it easily engages. Had me concerned first time it happened because I thought I broke something.

I keep 4-WD engaged at all times except when driving on a hard surface road.

Balking will decrease, but not disappear, with more tractor engine hours.


* Don't know right term for it, but lever to adjust rear attachment height is just up/down. There isn't a down stop. I found if I wanted box blade up just a little to spread gravel a little thicker, it was hard getting it at same height. Same for bush hog but I wasn't concerned if there was a small difference in cutting height for that stuff. If I were trying to make the bush hog finish mow and go for pretty I think it would be difficult if there was ever a need to raise it and then try to get back to same exact height.

This is called POSITION CONTROL. Many light tractors do not have Position Control. You may wish to consider CHECK CHAINS:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ta-b3300su-zerco-check-chains.html?highlight=
 

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   / LS XJ2025H initial thoughts #9  
I would suggest that you fill the wheels with rim guard and add wheel spacers. These tractors are very narrow and they WILL roll over.
 
 
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