Adding aux lights

[CMV]

A lot of threads here and the before/after pics of a light bar mounted on the ROPS looks like it makes a HUGE difference. I see lots of interesting pods, bars, etc on Amazon but wattage ratings anywhere from 18 to 500+.

So a couple of questions:

1. My factory headlights are 55/60 W. If I wanted to disconnect them and use their wiring to tap into, similar wattage light pods would be fine on that circuit and existing switch? The 55W is per light - not the pair correct?

2. Manual says hi/low beam. Maybe I'm an idiot, but headlights are either on or off. I haven't figured out any way to do high beams.

3. 300 watts 12VDC is 25 amps? What would be too much for my 50A alternator since it's also charging battery, running other lighting, running dash, fuel solenoid, and whatever else? I would assume asking it to deliver it's max whenever running extra lights wouldn't bee good for its long-term survival?

 

[jaxs]

12 volts x 25 amps is 300 watts,way too much continuous load on a 50 amp alternator. You can get equivalent light with LEDs using far fewer amps. I use 1 spot centered forward pluse 2 floods sjdes forward and 1 flood rear. OE headlamp switch turn's on tail and marker lights plus supplie's power to three aux switches,one switch control's forward spot,one switch control's both forward-side floods and one switch control's rear flood.

 

[CMV]

I am looking at LED lights. They seem to mostly range from 18 watts for small fog light type up to 300 watts for medium-large sized bars. Much in between as well.

What would be reasonable for the electrical system & 50A alternator I have? 100W? 200W?

I think anything up on the ROPS would be an improvement vs the stock halogen lights partially obscured by the FEL. But if doing it anyway, may as well get as much light as possible from the upgrade - within the limits of the electrical system.

I don't really run much after dusk as is, and addition of lights probably wouldn't make me want to start doing tractor work in the dark. But for the occasional time the lights are useful - or as additional lighting for something else in the field - I'd want as much light as I can produce within reason.

 

[jaxs]

Rule of thumb the origional alternator is capiable of keeping up with electric demand as tractor was originaly equipped. That mean's alternator can recharge battery after starting and run all origional equipment at same time. After startng,if you allowed battery to recharge before turning lights on,doubling original 120 watt light demand to 250-300 watts would be ok. If you boost start a car then rev engine at about 1500 rpms for a couple minutes causing alternator to charge at high amps,alternator quickly get's too hot to hold your hand on. That's why people who habitually leave lights on and get boost starts will soon need an alternator. If lights dim at idle,that indicate's bad battery or alternator is either too small or has lost capacity.

 

[tomplum]

This may be useful. I liked Plas62's set up. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...j2025h-light-bar-toolbox.html?highlight=light

 

[TnAndy]

I just tonight finished up adding a pair of 36w LEDs forward facing on the underside of the top of the roll bar (hopefully out of the way of tree branches enough they won't get snatched out...I use my tractor in the woods a lot). It's a LOT of additional light for only a 6 amp draw. I can't imagine needing any more than that, personally.

I'd previously put 2 pair of 18w ones on my golf (farm) cart, one forward, one rearward, switched separate, and it's plenty of light for the cart. I plan to add a pair of 18w for a rear work light on the tractor soon.

 

[moship]

CMV,

After measuring 3 different styles of LED work lamps, I found the rated watts to be overstated. If you disconnected your headlights, you'll have plenty of current to work with.

I've bypassed the headlights in several applications without altering the wiring by using an equivalent plug that simulates the headlight connection. Sometimes they are sold as headlight extension wires. Should the need arise it would be a simple plug and play to go back to stock.

The 18 watt lamps were of a 1x6 led arrangement (1 row of 6 leds), 27 watt has 9 leds in a 4.5 square housing and the 36 watt units have 12 leds mounted in 2 rows or 6 leds.




Keep in mind the values above are per work light, so if mounting a pair the amperage would be doubled.

The LED's lights above were the common cheap type found on Amazon for under $25/pair.

Example of 18 Watt:


27 Watt:


36 Watt:




All of the above put out an amazing amount of light when compared to halogen headlights or conventional work lights. The 36 Watt variety work very well on my cab tractor.

No need to overthink this and you'll be shocked at the light output.

 

[flingwing1969]

Here is a nice review that shows the actual wattage and amperage for each of a group of lights. Part 2 shows what each light really looks like. Off Road LED Pod Light Comparison Part 1 - By the Numbers - YouTube

 

[CMV]

Got the 9" ones from WM that are $19 ea. I disconnected my front headlight connectors and then just tapped green & black wires there. Sleeved some wire and routed from under hood to rear of machine following hyd lines as much as possible. Lots of zip ties to keep wires where I want them. I wanted to retain use of the stock headlight switch for my new lights not need some additional switch, so I lost my stock front headlights. Could reconnect but no idea what that circuit and switch can handle so felt more comfortable leaving stock halogen bulbs disconnected - not that they really did much anyway.

Coke/Pepsi, Ford/Chevy, drill/don't drill ROPS. I chose don't drill so just used a piece of angle iron and U bolts to mount the lights. Other than some scuffed paint, no harm/change to ROPS. Not the cleanest or prettiest way to go about it, but works - which is all I cared about.

Overall the lights are really, really bright. The pattern is a little more of a spot than I'd hoped for, but still 100x more illumination than the stock lights - esp since they were mostly obscured by the bucket.

Still have a single light bar to mount on rear to replace the stock work light. Project I might/might not ever get around to since for something like changing implement 3pt in low light the stock light is adequate. Plenty of room on the angle iron mount to add that to the rear. If I do add that, I think I'll look for some type of wing nut or finger bolt to attach the light to the mount so it's a simple tool-less change to point the light "down" to see the 3pt area or point it "up" to see well behind.

 

[jdom84]

Those light that place up!

I need to add lights... I will for sure want a set of spot lights pointing in the front but also would like a set of flood pointing forward and reverse