XJ2025H lighting issue

[LandofCheese]

First off I want to say hello from WI, long time lurker, I have gotten a lot of info from this site from all you guys/gals over the years. Now Im hoping to get a little more help.

Ok for my question....

Last fall I picked up a gently used XJ2025h for a great price (came with MMM, box blade, rear hyd ports, and rear filled fluid. Guy only sold it cause he was moving from 3 to 40 acres) so far ive only had 2 issues, one the oil dipstick keeps popping out, and two the issue im really posting this thread for is that I have no working turn signals/hazzards. I didnt notice till I had the tractor home.

All other lights work, headlights,running lights of ROPS, dash lights, rear work light all work. The dash responds to the left/right/hazards appropriately. As in it looks like it should be working to the bulbs on the ROPS.

Bulbs are good, all connections appear good (both under dash and socket). I don't know where to go from here, because literally eveything else works and appears like it should be working.

Im looking for pointers on where I can go from here, while im not new to tractors or working on machines and am new to something this new! I just wanna make sure im not missing something super obvious.

Thanks guys,

 

[tomplum]

Welcome to the forum, man from Cheeseland. First on the dipstick. One of our members has a video on that : Keep your dipstick where it belongs... on your LS tractor - YouTube I've had the dipstick come out once, so I put a shoestring bungie from the stick to the frame. I also don't idle below 1100 or so and the shaking some have isn't there for me.

Secondly if you don't have power at the ROPS mounted sockets, this is a quick list from the troubleshooting section.
The fuse block is accessible from the panel behind the ignition switch. 3 knobs and 1 screw for the throttle.
Blown #4 20-amp fuse • Replace 20-amp fuse • Faulty combination light switch• Test switch, replace if necessary • Faulty flasher unit• Test flasher unit, replace if necessary • Hazard light bulbs failure• Replace bulbs as necessary • Improper ground• Check ground location, for clean contact area . Keep us in the loop.

 

[LandofCheese]

Thank you Tomplum,

I have been avoiding super low idle because of that very reason, and find that as you say anything above 1100rpm is much much smoother, is there a dealer replacement to fix this dipstick issue? and if not its no biggy. I will likely do something like you have done.

I've been very busy lately and haven't been able to look at the tractor lightning issue since I asked my question. I'm hoping to get at it and fix it this weekend. (it's suppose to be near 50!) anything special I should need other than a multi-meter?

 

[tomplum]

The first 50 degree weekend. A good feeling for sure. It is likely a matter of just getting into it. A multimeter would be a good thing. Don't forget about charcoal for the grill....

 

[LandofCheese]

it was a GREAT weekend weather wise, now back to cold again but it was a nice sunny break for once, and i did do some grilling haha.

now for my electrical issue. I am stumped....

OK so I went though everything, blew out all the connectors and checked everything. It is good all the way through. All switches and relays are working as they should. I tested the sockets and they are getting 12v, 0v, 12v, 0v just like they should be. Both bulbs looked perfectly OK, but I went to the store anyway and got two new ones and put them in.... still nothing, I rummaged though the garage and found some other bulbs that I know are good. STILL nothing. I check check and re-check that the socket is getting power it is, 12v, 0v, 12v, 0v....... at this point I have no idea what to do.... the bulbs are a B9 base, nothing seems out of place and the socket is getting power as it should.... :mur:ullinghair::mur:

If anyone has any ideas I'm ALL EARS!!!!

 

[jdom84]

it was a GREAT weekend weather wise, now back to cold again but it was a nice sunny break for once, and i did do some grilling haha.

now for my electrical issue. I am stumped....

OK so I went though everything, blew out all the connectors and checked everything. It is good all the way through. All switches and relays are working as they should. I tested the sockets and they are getting 12v, 0v, 12v, 0v just like they should be. Both bulbs looked perfectly OK, but I went to the store anyway and got two new ones and put them in.... still nothing, I rummaged though the garage and found some other bulbs that I know are good. STILL nothing. I check check and re-check that the socket is getting power it is, 12v, 0v, 12v, 0v....... at this point I have no idea what to do.... the bulbs are a B9 base, nothing seems out of place and the socket is getting power as it should.... :mur:ullinghair::mur:

If anyone has any ideas I'm ALL EARS!!!!

The sockets are getting power but the bulb isn't lighting? Unless the terminals are severely corroded, I don't see how that is even possible...

 

[3Lfarms]

I take it you are using a volt meter. Try a test light with a filament. It is possible to have voltage and almost no current. A bad connection can let voltage through but not enough amperage to light a bulb.

 

[LandofCheese]

*Smacks forehead* yes I am using a volt meter. I'm ashamed to say I totaly flaked on checking the amperage part of the electical equation... I will dig out my test light and report back. Thank you for reminding me to check for amps 3Lfarms!

 

[tomplum]

Is it possible the bulbs are wrong or installed 180 off? I'm not sure what a B9 base is myself. A ground unhooked somewhere?

 

[LandofCheese]

Took out the test light. Lights up nice and bright on off on off. And im sorry about the b9 base thing I was mistaken, its a basic auto bulb, 12v 21w. Put the bulbs back in after my test still nothing. To say I am at a loss is an understatement. .... I feel I need a young priest, an old priest, and a whole lot of luck to get this voodoo figured out.