How Do I Fix This

[rwork]

After a hard day of clearing brush with the grapple, I noticed another casualty. I managed to catch a limb behind the level tube, and as I backed up, it managed to break the weld on the adjustment nut. Wondering what would be the best way to repair this, as it is on the lift cylinder. I've heard that you shouldn't weld directly on the tractor without disconnecting the battery?
Maybe Gary Fowler can give me some pointers on how to handle this. Looks like an easy enough fix, I just don't want to do something to cause my electronics to go haywire. And where would I ground to?

Randy

[CalG]

After a hard day of clearing brush with the grapple, I noticed another casualty. I managed to catch a limb behind the level tube, and as I backed up, it managed to break the weld on the adjustment nut. Wondering what would be the best way to repair this, as it is on the lift cylinder. I've heard that you shouldn't weld directly on the tractor without disconnecting the battery?
Maybe Gary Fowler can give me some pointers on how to handle this. Looks like an easy enough fix, I just don't want to do something to cause my electronics to go haywire. And where would I ground to?

Randy

Disconnect battery, turn the key to Off.

remove the clamp bolt

Grind off the paint from the broken area and V out in prep for ARC welding.

Clamp the split/ bent parts to draw them into original position. Double check that your V didn't close up to nothing, and that the tab has not cracked off the cylinder. Look closely at the paint.

Put the ground clamp in the cylinder pivot pin since the lug is all ready welded to the cylinder tube. Make sure the ground clamp is firmly positioned on shiny clean metal. Wire brush the spot if in question.

Make the repair weld.

let cool, check tat the clamp bolt still threads the way you like. Chase the thread if required. Spritz with matching paint

Reconnect battery

enjoy

[Rock knocker]

I've welded on trucks and equipment many times. Nothing wrong with unhooking the battery, but I don't think it is necessary. Just keep the ground clamp as close as possible to the weldment, and make sure that the welding currents do not travel thru bearings, hydraulic cylinders, the trans and block, etc.

[Gary Fowler]

I have welded on all my tractors and my B-I-L's New Holland all without unhooking the battery and not damaged anything but for maximum safety, just unhook the ground to the battery and you will be double safe. Put the ground on the piece that you are welding. Remove the old broken weld from the nut and flat bar. There really isnt any thing to V out as you are welding a fillet to the flat bar and nut. Just power brush off the paint from both sides of the nut and clamp your ground opposite side of where you will weld. Use C clamp or vise grips to squeeze the flat bar back to original position or failing that beat it back in place with a hammer. The weld to the cylinder is substantial and should present no problem. When you finish welding the broken side, put a little more weld on the other side.
Also dont completely remove the bolt from the nut, just loosen it up so the threads are flush with the nut then put some masking tape on the exposed threads. This will keep any welding buckshot from getting in the threads. Be careful and dont accidently arc strike the set screw as it could arc thru the threads and gall them when you try to tighten it back up.
As I was once told, beat to fit and paint to match and you are finished.

[Gary Fowler]

Oh by the way, on my P7010, after a hard day of moving brush, I noticed that my bucket level indicator had a substantial bend in it. Nothing that a hammer and anvil couldnt straighten though. Only folks that dont break or bend something are the ones that dont use their tractors.

[rwork]

Oh by the way, on my P7010, after a hard day of moving brush, I noticed that my bucket level indicator had a substantial bend in it. Nothing that a hammer and anvil couldnt straighten though. Only folks that dont break or bend something are the ones that dont use their tractors.

Gary, I like the way you think...beat 'er back in shape, and throw some paint on it!,
I bought mine to work, as well.

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

[Gary Fowler]

I buy all my stuff to use. Some folks buy a 4 WD truck and never take it off the highway. I go wherever I want and do what ever I need to do with mine and even wash it every year or two. I do like the keep the inside clean though so I vacuum it about twice a year. I even broke down and washed and waxed it a few days ago. Its 5 years old and about time for the second wax job. I do keep it serviced as per maintenance schedule just like my tractors and other stuff, but aesthetic stuff never bothered me much since I quit picking up girls. Had to wash/wax and clean that car prior to going out tom-catting.

[Carl_NH]

It appears that bolt is maybe 1/2" too long just waiting to catch something. Another option in addition to re-welding is to put two locking collars with setscrews on each side of the welded flange - this would be lower profile too.

Carl

[milkman]

Probably be just as fast to remove the loader and weld it as it would be to get to and unhook the battery.

[k0ua]

Probably be just as fast to remove the loader and weld it as it would be to get to and unhook the battery.

Well now, That is a good idea isn't it? Solves the question pretty quick