My R3039 Mods

[mangus580]

I am starting this thread as a place to list off anything I do to my 3039....

Today, I added 2 of Ken's bolt on hooks, and a receiver tube. Also finished running the wires for my 'idiot light'. Just need the switch for that now, and I decided that I am going to add a second 'fuse box' for that light, and any other work lights I may add in the future. I am thinking of putting a heavy solenoid/relay in line on the wire from the battery sot hat fuse box will be switched via the key. I will need to figure out where I can tap into the wiring for that purpose.

Also, I discovered a pair of wire sets under the hood that are 3 wires in each set, and the sets match. They are I believe green, yellow, and black. Turns out they are low beam, and hazard flashers, (with the black being ground). I guess some tractors must have lights near the hood/loader uprights from the factory. Figured I would mention it, in case someone needs them! I may use them for a set of lights up near the loader someplace...

Sorry about the crappy pictures... forgot to get them when it was inside at my buddys shop.

[mangus580]

Just to put it all in one place.... here is what I posted about the Idiot Light last week....

Since my driveway is short, and has a bunch of road frontage (not to mention a 55mph road), I felt it best to mount a Idiot Light on my tractor. Can be thought as me being an idiot in the road, or me trying to avoid idiots on the road, your choice!

I wanted it to be semi protected when the ROPS was up, so it hangs underneath. I extended the mounting forward, to make side visibility better. I have the wires set up appropriately to allow the ROPS to fold down still too, as i need it dropped to fit in the shed.

I have yet to wire it up fully, need to decide on a switch, and find warmer dryer weather to lay underneath to run the wires. (wired to my booster pack to show it working)

What I need to know from the LS guys.... does anyone have a schematic? Where is the best spot for me to connect into for this light? Can I take advantage of one of the 'spare' fuse holders? Anyone with an R series have a preference as to where a switch might get mounted? (they really didnt give us many options)

Also noticed 2 different unused connectors behind the seat!! And several under the dash. Hence the desire for a schematic!!

And here is the switch I am going to use, and place it just to the left of the key...

[Guesseral]

Well if you are going to put all of the changes you make on your tractor this could be will be a long running thread expecially when you make a change 20 years from not!

[boomer632]

I am starting this thread as a place to list off anything I do to my 3039....

Today, I added 2 of Ken's bolt on hooks, and a receiver tube.

How did you bolt the hooks and tube on with the double walled bucket that the LS's have? What was the length and diameter of the bolts? I wanted to go with the Kens hooks and trailer receiver too..

[Gary Fowler]

I am starting this thread as a place to list off anything I do to my 3039....

Today, I added 2 of Ken's bolt on hooks, and a receiver tube. Also finished running the wires for my 'idiot light'. Just need the switch for that now, and I decided that I am going to add a second 'fuse box' for that light, and any other work lights I may add in the future. I am thinking of putting a heavy solenoid/relay in line on the wire from the battery sot hat fuse box will be switched via the key. I will need to figure out where I can tap into the wiring for that purpose.


Also, I discovered a pair of wire sets under the hood that are 3 wires in each set, and the sets match. They are I believe green, yellow, and black. Turns out they are low beam, and hazard flashers, (with the black being ground). I guess some tractors must have lights near the hood/loader uprights from the factory. Figured I would mention it, in case someone needs them! I may use them for a set of lights up near the loader someplace...

Sorry about the crappy pictures... forgot to get them when it was inside at my buddys shop.

I think all the cab models have turn signals so those wires you found would be for that I suppose. Looks like LS factory uses the same wiring harness for all models so the wires are there for cabs or not even if the tractor is not available with a cab at the present time.

[mangus580]

How did you bolt the hooks and tube on with the double walled bucket that the LS's have? What was the length and diameter of the bolts? I wanted to go with the Kens hooks and trailer receiver too..

For the hooks, and the front 2 bolts on the hitch, I used 1/2" x 3" Grade 8. The rear 2 bolts on the hitch, I used 2 of the bolts that came with Kens hooks.

Be warned when you drill... that the weld is centered front to back in the bottom of the tube. I learned the hard way!

My original plan, was to drill/tap the top hole, thread the bolt into it from the bottom up, creating a stud for the hook plate, then drop plate on, and put nut over it. I opted against it, because the nuts were too tall, and would have interfered with the chain and hook.

I know Ken urges against clamping the tube like this, but the LS tubes look pretty thick, and I couldnt see any other way of doing it that I would have been happy with.

Like my buddy says... if the hooks start to get loose, you know you lifted something too heavy!! LOL

[BlackDogTx]

Hi,
I apologize for my ignorance in advance, but when you say "clamping the tube", can you give a bit more detail on what you mean by that? I want to add some of the Ken's hooks to my G3038.
Thanks,
..E

[mangus580]

Just basically drilling a hole through both layers of the tube and bolting the hook on. See if these pics help.

[BlackDogTx]

Just basically drilling a hole through both layers of the tube and bolting the hook on. See if these pics help.

OK.. Gotya.. So about the weld in the tube, did you just drill through it or what did you mean about that also? I am ordering my hooks this afternoon, just want to be ready to install 'em..
Thanks again!
.E

[mangus580]

I did essentially drill through the weld, just wanted to mention it was there, as you need to take a little more care in your drilling as to not break your bits.

What I had done, was drilled roughly 1/8" pilot holes. They ended up being off center front/back a little because they walked to the front of the weld. But with those holes in place, when I drilled with the 1/2 bit, it just cut the weld out of its way. Take your time drilling, and dont forget to use coolant or oil on your bit.


Honestly, I would have bought weld on hooks, if I didnt want to fight with fixing the paint after welding them on my brand new bucket