FEL on 7520

[SPYDERLK]

Originally Posted by bindian

Larry,
I just checked and it looks like I can turn the channel over with out cutting the end(s). I have a long bolt that may be in the way, but a washer stack swap should make it clear. That would give about 3 more inches clearance there. It's amazing how you can look at something and never think about it, but then sometimes look at something and light bulbs go off in your head on how to make it better.
On closer look just now, when I took that 5 inch ding in my driveshaft cover (right above said C channel brace), if the C channel would have been on top, it would have stopped the dent from happening. As it stands now, the dent also has the cover contacting a protected line. I need to remove the cover and beat the dent out.
My salesman, that installed my BH, is out fishing now so I will have to email him.
hugs, Brandi

Brandi, glad it looks ok to do on yours too. I had to notch the flange edges to get by the bolts holding the angle bracket. Only lacks about 1/4". That driveshaft cover is sheet metal? If nothing got crushed under it your ok in that area. Where its critical that the cover not bear against stuff is up front where the hard hyd lines for the P/S cyl go in. One of my hyd lines got bent causing the rigid to flex connection to rub against the inside of that shield. Consequently the slight movement of the P/S cyl flexed the rigid tubing and it cracked in the bend. It was a high pres leak but soon enuf youre dead in the water or field or woods unable to steer.
Good luck with your mod.
larry

[MtnViewRanch]

Originally Posted by bindian

Larry,
I just checked and it looks like I can turn the channel over with out cutting the end(s). I have a long bolt that may be in the way, but a washer stack swap should make it clear. That would give about 3 more inches clearance there. It's amazing how you can look at something and never think about it, but then sometimes look at something and light bulbs go off in your head on how to make it better.
On closer look just now, when I took that 5 inch ding in my driveshaft cover (right above said C channel brace), if the C channel would have been on top, it would have stopped the dent from happening. As it stands now, the dent also has the cover contacting a protected line. I need to remove the cover and beat the dent out.

Brandi, I think that I have that same drive shaft cover ding, and in the same place. I will check for sure Sunday when I get those pics for Larry.

[bindian]

Originally Posted by SPYDERLK

Brandi, glad it looks ok to do on yours too. I had to notch the flange edges to get by the bolts holding the angle bracket. Only lacks about 1/4". That driveshaft cover is sheet metal? If nothing got crushed under it your ok in that area. Where its critical that the cover not bear against stuff is up front where the hard hyd lines for the P/S cyl go in. One of my hyd lines got bent causing the rigid to flex connection to rub against the inside of that shield. Consequently the slight movement of the P/S cyl flexed the rigid tubing and it cracked in the bend. It was a high pres leak but soon enuf youre dead in the water or field or woods unable to steer.
Good luck with your mod.
larry

Larry,
The ding caused the area in front of it to kind of crush. It looks like it is up against the "finned" hard lines. If it isn't touching, it is real close. I have no clue how long this dent has been there. The cover is a thick mild steel sheetmetal.......maybe an 1/8 or 3/16 thick.
If you lose power steering, do the same trick you use to get out of the mud. Lower the bucket and lift the front tires, then turn the wheels in the direction you need to limp back to the barn! Simple.
hugs, Brandi

[SPYDERLK]

Originally Posted by bindian

Larry,
The ding caused the area in front of it to kind of crush. It looks like it is up against the "finned" hard lines. If it isn't touching, it is real close. I have no clue how long this dent has been there. The cover is a thick mild steel sheetmetal.......maybe an 1/8 or 3/16 thick.
If you lose power steering, do the same trick you use to get out of the mud. Lower the bucket and lift the front tires, then turn the wheels in the direction you need to limp back to the barn! Simple.
hugs, Brandi

Good idea on the steering. Im sure it would work well on smooth level ground. In the woods I think I wood be on and off the tractor every few feet twiddling the wheels. Wonder how much the brakes would help....

Those "finned" lines on mine are spring wrapped hyd hose. Idont think you have a problem unless the springs are crimped. Wish my cover was that thick - every bit of extra weight down that low is worth double of that weight at the CG... Not to mention the extra hyd line protection. Mine is 1/16". REAL sheet metal. Good enuf for snag, but almost worthless to protect against crush. Great for hiding damage.
larry

[MtnViewRanch]

Here are a bunch of pics that I took of the underside. Found a 7/8"-1" stick shoved up from the bottom all the way up by the sheet metal for the cowl. Does not appear to have caused any damage.

The sub frame is made from 2 1/2" square tubing and each tube has a factory bend in it. My cross brace is bent and the drive shaft cover above it is bent up about 3/4". (maybe .090 thick, but I doubt it) And I saw that somewhere apparently I was deep enough in mud that my filters got drug through the muck.

All the more reason to get my skid plate made.

[bindian]

I stopped off at my dealer yesterday morning. I looked under the 6520 on their lot and saw two channels running from the back loader mount to the rear. My salesman was visiting his doctor, so I didn't get to ask where are my braces. I will go back Friday morning.
hugs, Brandi

[SPYDERLK]

Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch

Here are a bunch of pics that I took of the underside. Found a 7/8"-1" stick shoved up from the bottom all the way up by the sheet metal for the cowl. Does not appear to have caused any damage.

The sub frame is made from 2 1/2" square tubing and each tube has a factory bend in it. My cross brace is bent and the drive shaft cover above it is bent up about 3/4". (maybe .090 thick, but I doubt it) And I saw that somewhere apparently I was deep enough in mud that my filters got drug through the muck.

All the more reason to get my skid plate made.

Thanks for the great pics Brian! Im on it with my dealer and tech rep. It is weird how difficult it is being to get complete delivery on my tractor after 2yrs of trying. The list just grows. Even tho they seem to pay attention the list just grows. I guess Im just going to have to notch up my prompts.

For you, I have an idea for a quick, low effort, high satisfaction project. Invert that c channel to above the brackets. Looks like it will fit just like mine with about 1/4" notched out of the flange ends. You can do this while youre restin laying down. Youll be glad you did.
larry

[MtnViewRanch]

Originally Posted by SPYDERLK

Thanks for the great pics Brian! Im on it with my dealer and tech rep. It is weird how difficult it is being to get complete delivery on my tractor after 2yrs of trying. The list just grows. Even tho they seem to pay attention the list just grows. I guess Im just going to have to notch up my prompts.

For you, I have an idea for a quick, low effort, high satisfaction project. Invert that c channel to above the brackets. Looks like it will fit just like mine with about 1/4" notched out of the flange ends. You can do this while youre restin laying down. Youll be glad you did.
larry

After seeing all the dirt that the cross member drags up, that inversion will get done here shortly.

[bindian]

I talked to my salesman this morning. He said he did take the braces off. He did one last week. We looked through the shop for either mine, or off the one he did last week. The mechanic's son told us that the service manager took some scrap metal home. So Monday we might find my (or soon to be mine) braces.
hugs, Brandi